Alright, I tried a search, but didn't find anything. So my question is what's the best way to make a gravel road and parking lot. The parking lot is for a lumber yard, and when I was a kid, I remember going to Foxworth Galbraith Lumber, and they had what looked like crushed limestone gravel behind the fence where all the materials were stored. How do I do this? I thought about testing ultra fine ballast sprinkled on wet joint compound base. But I decided to tap into the wealth of knowledge here first. Thanks...
That would work. Or letting the joint compound dry then coating with latex paint for the gravel to stick to. Using ground colored paint could give the effect of thinly dispersed grave. Using paint the color of the gravel could represent a heavier coat of gravel. Or a combination of the two for a varied effect. Additional gravel might require thinned white glue to assure adhesion - not unlike applying ballast to roadbeds except thinner coverage. Ben
I generally use a brown/buff or orange fine ballast to model the ballast I used to see most often when I was a kid in parts of Texas I model. And I use light grey/white fine ballast to model crushed limestone for shoulders of roads etc. where there is no curb. Here is light gray ballast used as fill for heavy equipment unloading platform, as modified from Santa Fe standard plans...
Yeah, paint and ballast will do it. I recommend using masking tape around the edge of the parking area to get a clean edge line. After it all dries, you can mask the parking area before putting down the surrounding turf ground foam, for the more natural areas. If there is one or two areas where the tape is raised slightly, that will take away the too perfect edge, if that bothers you.
I have had great success using "moondust",the stuff they put on softball and baseball diamonds.(Which I think may actually be crushed limestone).I take a cup full and sift it through a fine strainer right on to the layout.Then I mist that area with a mixture of alcohol and water to moisten the moondust.This helps avoid "crusting" with the 50/50 mixture of white glue and water I apply with an eyedroppper.After the 50/50 solutions soaks in,I lightly sprinkle some more dust on top.You can make wheel ruts while this is still wet to add realism.That's my technique,hope that helps.
I paint the area first with black latex paint, then apply white glue straight from the bottle. The black paint does not like water, and it will tend to bead up on the surface. When spreading glue with my finger, I make sure to do a lousy job of it, allowing the streaks from the glue separating to remain. Make sure the glue is very thin, or you will get bumps (you may want that). Then, carefully sift on fine grey ballast from Arizona Rock & Minerals (or equivalent), then allow to dry and then vacuum. When it's done, you have truck marks in the gravel, allowing the old asphault to show through... The more ways you do parking lots the better, you need variety!
I have used the fine ballast with success. An alternative is sandpaper. Have a solid base. Glue it down with latex contact cement. Choose a grit that gives you the graininess you want, then paint it to match the gravel from your area. You can weather it with chalks or paint, even rubbing your finger across it will add shading. I like to use fine sandpaper for textured flat roofs. D. Gentry Cache Valley & Northern RR
That's exactly what I have done MOPACJAY. Here is a picture of my results. This scene needs some more work but you can get the idea. Andrew
i used alum. oxide sand blasting medium for etching glass, a big container was like $7.00 at the craft store.
Looks great Andrew.I like the way your buildings blend into the scenery base,not just plopped down.:thumbs_up:
I use wallboard joint compound for everything. I just paint it different for concrete, asphalt or gravel.
