When I first got into Z scale, I purchased Rokuhan's "RC-02". It works very well. However.... I also have this beautiful MRC "ControlMaster VI": Now, this is an older unit (it may in fact, come close to pre-dating Z scale), but it works very well with all my other scales. You can see it has the "track voltage" feature, and, if set half way, my volt meter shows similar output compared to the Rokuhan. It also has that "Momentum" control, which is kind of cool and (so far, anyway) this seems compatible with my MT F7s. Can anyone tell me if I'm taking a risk by using this unit? Thanks! Mark in Oregon
output to track for DC operation for Z scale should not exceed 10vdc, and not all momentum throttles are friendly to Z scale stock. What is good for other scale is not usually friendly to Z scale So I would be very cautious initially using this throttle. I can probably tell you more if I see the rear panel and electrical data if it printed on the case there. If it were me I would put a voltmeter on the track output and set your track voltage control for max of 9 vdc with the F7 on the track start with throttle at 50% and as you increase it to max keep adjusting track voltage to keep it just below 9 vdc max that will ensure you can use throttle full range without sending more voltage to your engine than it can handle. if you use momentum control you need to check your engine for excessive heating effect in the motors of you Z scale stock and with volt meter make sure you are not exceeding that 9 vdc to the track. The F7 from Micro Trains is pretty robust, so it is a good one to start with . Some other engines from Rokuhan and Marklin are not as robust. if my memory is good this unit can produce almost 15 vdc to the track with no load and with a load about 13 vdc.
Hey Garth Thanks for the input. I would guess a good rule of thumb is: since the Rokuhan is designed for Z, and since I have one on hand, I might as well play it safe and use it.... Mark in Oregon
Once you have adjusted the track voltage knob, squirt some hot glue between the knob and the front panel, just enough to lock the knob in place, but not so much that a pair of needle nose pliers can't remove it. Greg
I would actually suggest that you check the output with an oscilloscope. The unit may very well provide pulsed power that exceeds the voltage you read on the meter. There is a review of the MRC 220 on the Yahoo Z scale group that you might want to look at.
Thanks everyone for your replies. I'll just stick with the Rokuhan, and save the MRC for my larger stuff... Mark in Oregon
Good call. I have seen many a Z scale loco fried by the use of non-Z rated controllers. Amperage can be the real issue. Too many amps will destroy the motors. I also recommend only using controllers specifically designed for Z.
That looks like my old Controlmaster X (1975 vintage). Warning mine will output up to 26VDC. Turn that track voltage all the way down.
Welcome. Due to board policies, recommending specific products is a bit tricky. Rob's (ztrack above) sites offers several DC and PWM DC units as does Märklin and Rokuhan through their U.S. distributors. I own all of them and have nothing to complain about. The main different between the controllers is their features. The NCE Power cab is a DCC unit that many people in z use. I have one of these, in part, because their use is so common. No complaints. There are many good DCC controllers available. The key things to remember is that Z really doesn't draw much power and you really don't want to exceed 12V. Mark
Thanks, Mark. I appreciate the info. I read somewhere, though, that Z shouldn't exceed 10v. But you think 12v is OK? Basically, whatever the threshold, as long as the power pack doesn't exceed it I can use whatever I want with my Z scale layout?
The "official" Z scale maximum voltage is 10VDC. However, some locomotives are spec'ed at 8 or 9VDC. The recent AZL diesel locomotives have a 12VDC motor. All the locomotives I have show some margin, but for DC operations I wouldn't exceed 10VDC. DCC is a bit of a different story. The locomotive decoder controls the power going to the motor. Users of DCC having been using 12V input to the controller for years, which, as far as I know, hasn't created problems. Mark
There are inexpensive (less than $15), switchable, regulated power supplies available from manufacturers like Velleman (#PSSMV1USA) and others. Switch selections include 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9, and 12v. In a very small package a rating of 10-12 watts or 1.5 amps is common and generally quite adequate. Higher ratings are readily available at commensurate higher cost. Regulated means they put out the selected voltage at no amp load up to the rated amp load instead of the jockeying that occurs between volts vs: amp draw that is typical for so many small wall warts supplied with household low voltage supplies. Unregulated supply means that the rated volts/ amps are related such that the voltage will be that specified AT the specified amp draw with the voltage rising as the amp draw is reduced or the voltage drops as the amp draw exceeds that specified. Many inexpensive train set controllers (Bachmann?) operate just this way and can put out voltage in the upper teens at very low draw. One of those supplies with a low frequency PWM controller such as a Medvend ($25?) or Vari-Pulse makes for a really nice controller with excellent low speed control for these little motors. I have been using exactly a Velleman with a Medvend controller for the last couple of years in extensive tests with very small power trucks that I have been developing and I couldn't be happier with the performance of all components. Test units often run 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and for months, only stopping for a cleaning, oiling, or inspecting/ changing components being tested. For DC operation I will recommend these types of controllers as they have given flawless control over the full range of speeds from absolute creep to full speed. For DCC there are voltage dropper schemes that can be found online or for $25 or so Digitrax has a voltage dropper (UP6Z) that can drop either four or six volts that is packaged for just this purpose. It's in an enclosure with terminal strips for wiring and multiple controller connections. Hope that helps.
Thanks for this info. I actually was just reading about the Medvend controller. Specifically this one: http://zscaletrack.com/AN-1-C I like that I can install it seamlessly into the paneling, especially since I am building a custom travel case for the layou. My only question, though, is what accessories do I need to hook it up to D.C.? Can I use, let's say, Märklin turnouts and turnout controls? Or, do I have to make everything manual? Will I need an entirely different power supply for my accessories? Do the Medvend dials come with instructions on how to properly operate it and wire it up? Haven't been able to find anything on YouTube. I just get the feeling that a lot of these products you have to know about ahead of time before installing. I'm confident in my wiring abilities, I just need very clear instructions.
That's the controller I am using. There are instructions linked at the bottom of that catalog page. Understand that the controller is just a controller, not the power supply. You supply the power at the voltage you want for your locos. The controller will function between 6v and 24v but for Z you will be using something between 6 and 12v depending on your choice of locos. This is where the convenience of the switchable Velleman supply is handy. With a flip of a switch you can choose between 3 and 12 volts. Because many locos have excessive scale speed you may choose to run 12 volt units at something less, like 9v, and gaining the effect of being closer to scale speed. Also worthy of note is that the Medvend unit I have will function properly at 4.5v even though that's below the manufacturer's minimum rating. It won't do anything on 3v. The connections are four. Two wires from the supply to the controller and two wires out of the controller to the track. That's it. As far as accessories and lighting, I'm inclined to choose a separate supply for those but you may be able to work it all from the one 12v (or whatever you choose) supply. Watch your power demands but most of this stuff doesn't use much. The requirements for turnout control vary from one manufacturer to another so I would refer to their literature for that info or maybe wait for someone more experienced than I with all of the different manufacturers' remote turnout controls. A few searches on this board my help, too. I don't think they will be hard to work out but I don't have direct experience to offer "expert" advice off the top of my head.
Micro-Trains sells a version of the MRC Railpower 1300 DC power pack that has been modified to limit the maximum output to 10V. https://www.micro-trains.com/index.php?_route_=1300-mrc-power-pack-customized-for-z-scale-99513000
The Märklin accessories work on 12V. For a portable layout I'd suggest a 12V battery pack (8 AA batteries). I've used a 9V battery for turnouts, but find it's not 100% reliable. Mark
Ahhh, this is all starting to make a little more sense now. I apologize if my electrical ignorance is making me ask too many questions. So what you are suggesting is I get the above controller and attach it to this: https://www.vellemanusa.com/products/view/?id=527831 I assume I'd snip off the end of the wires where the adapters go, strip them and then attach to the controller? (See attached.)
Actually, for a portable layout, I'd suggest adding a power jack to the layout and use the wall wart as is. This way you could connect batteries and make the layout completely portable. I can provide more details if their is interest. As a retired electrical engineer I can tell you when it comes to electricity, you can never ask too many questions and the dumbest question of all is the one not asked. Mark
