Does anyone know what the radius is, of the Kato R-90 curve? Googled it, no help. Checked Kato, no help. Wondering, since that's the minimum that my new MyTram will run, according to instructions. Have been thinking of using the Kato Portram sets, with a couple of different trams running. Information appreciated. Thanks.
usually the part number is descriptive. Radius = 90mm. I agree google has failed on this one though !
You may want to do a search: "Youtube youtube kato tram" 90MM, (3.54"), sounds about right. But "My Tram' may not work well on standard Kata track. I have their 'Boxcab' which derails on the 're-raiiler'.and on #6 turnouts.
I don't plan to use anything that sharp! Might use it on the double track Viaduct set I've got. With extra sections for Station and shops. Instructions stated that R-90 was minimum radius. I was curious to know what that was. As stated Google didn't help and neither did the Kato website. Appreciate the information! Thanks.
Mine runs on the 7 inch rad and the 8.5 inch rad with no issues. 7 inch is the sharpest standard unitrack I know of.
@Keith I am confused. Are you planning to use the 'Unitram Track' or the cars? Also, have you seen this: http://www.katousa.com/PDF/UNITRAM-V60-Guide.pdf
My thought is: Don't mix the 'Tram Tack' and 'unitrak'. The 'My Tram' cars may not be compattible with all unitrak. I could be wrong.
The uni-tram tracks were built to be used with the old Centram/Portram units. They can handle really sharp curves and thus Kato took advantage of this, and made some really sharp (R90) curves as a result. Not all other manufacturer’s trams will be happy on these sharp turns, your mileage may very. I have a 3 section Nuremberg Tram from Tomix that I doubt will take a R90 but it should operate just fine on any other Kato track. Also the new “My Tram” trams have a wider footprint than the Unitrams had so I’m not sure how well they will run on the sharp track. I am also eagerly awaiting a pocket tram to see how those run. a side note on the Unitrams… they are super picky on track quality. If you have even the slightest lip when tails join it can cause derailment or causing the tram to get stuck. This is due to the tiny wheels and a super low ground clearance. The body is barely a millimeter and under the truck even less.
I hate to say but you are because Kato makes a transition section to go from street running to regular unitrack that allows street running to countryside running. I was looking at tram track for running on my harbor docks.
The 2 types of track mix perfectly. Kato made all the joiners of the unitram the same as their unitrack. There are even some unitrack pieces that are designed for the Unitrams. I built my tram layout module with that type of track.
I’m not sure yet, whaat I’m going to be doing. Had thought about getting the basic portram set along with 2 add on sets, to make the double figure 8. Then add in the double track viaduct set. The only thing now, that I want to do, is see IF I can find the MyTram Red. I’ve got a couple other trams I can run as well. Want to concentrate on finding out WHEN my new truck will be scheduled for build!
Not sure of the MyTram or the Tomix trams but if you plan any type of incline the Portram/Centram models from Kato are not really suited to much if an at all. They simply do not have the power or traction to take a hill.
Wasn’t planning on grades. Would probably run the Portrams at ground level. And run the MyTrams on oval viaduct set. If I did include a grade, it would be single track, coming down from elevated loop, down to engine house on lower level. As stated before, I’m not sure what I’m going to do yet! Need the MyTram Red. Which I just got the invoice for and paid a bit earlier. Should have it next week sometime.
