I am starting to regret building my layout with code 83 track. Most Rrivarossi steam will not run right unless I file down the flanges , the same for a lot of Mehano /IHC steam. Later Bachmann is fine and Mantua are ok except for some lead trucks. Older cars are the same Rivarossi passenger cars are a no go. Maybe should have just went with code 100. However code 83 does look nice. Just venting after my latest build did the flange clicking on my first test run.
Just to be clear, the real problem isn't the track, the real problem is that the older, cheaper equipment has huge, oversize flanges. If the wheelsets are standard flanges then you can run down to code 70 or even 55. If you are running equipment with the "pizza cutter" flanges then yes code 100 will work better.
Isn't that something we should look into before laying track. The age of the equipment to go on it. I want older '40 box cars but will need to change the wheels if there older ones. On both gauges.
The problem is when I get a idea for project using older trains. However some IHC steam that is newer also will hit on switch frogs. I will use a dremel tool to grind down the driver flanges. The IHC 2-8-0 project that I am working on was hitting one its first test run , so was causing some frustrations
IHC and its predecessor AHM solld european made models, low cost and low to middling quality ... hence the 'pizza cutter' flanges ...part of the package ... IHC [i think] went SOL in 2003 or so ..
I use the german TILLIG Elite code 83 that works well with the older AHM/IHC (Rivarossi and LIMA imports), due to the low profile of the sleepers spikes reproduction. Also I use fastrack assmebly fixtures to build my own turnouts using the same TILLIG rails. Came to use this "exotic" brand due to it being the only code 83 that allowed most of the older stock to run without touching the spikes with the flanges (by the way the oldest european models I have had to have their wheels replaced, but this did not apply even to the oldest US models from LIMA - 1977 ALCO 420). Do not know how easy it is to get these rails outside Germany, but probably if you use handlaid code 83 (therefore no spikes) and handlaid turnouts you may be very well able to use the older stock. Making turnouts with the fastracks tools is really easy (i am a sad loser with soldering, and managed to build turnouts reliably and decently quickly), so would give it a try. In the end you have to make a choice among replacing the wheelsets (NWSL or other sell replacement items), not running this kind of stock, handlay track, or use code 100.
When I planned my latest layout it was only going to be a switching layout with just a couple of engines. However it grew. to a 18 x 8 around the wall layout with 2 main lines with a duck under and articulated steam running. Funny how that happens.
What about laying only one branchline with suitable rails? So you can still run this stock, even if just on a portion of the layout.
I have an older Rivarossi AC-12 cab forward with the pizza cutter flanges. It is no problems on Peco code 83. I have not tried other brands yet.
Note the OP specifically mentioned switch frogs What brand switches? AHM/IHC is Mehano. The IHC versions should have proper wheel profiles. At least the later runs. I think earlier runs were leftovers from earlier. It sounds to me like the problem isn't code 83, but the frogs. Cars are an easy fix, just replace the wheels which probably is a good idea anyway. Similarly on Diesels it's easy enough to replace them. Steam is where the problem lies.
Many time our layout plans / goal change even in the building of it. The problem I have in in the frogs. And only in the track were I got a little over zealous with the ballet. Like a switching spur where you want the ties hidden by dirt. ( Not that I would ever do such a thing What I noticed . All Ahtearn are fine . Mantua steam drivers are fine, some lead / trailing trucks and tender trucks are a problem. Rivarossi get out the Dremel tool. Older Mehano flanges hit. If I was to build again I would use code 100 for flanges . I like working on older nonrunning steam and kitbashing them , also I really like Kato switches and would use them with flex track.
A quick, more general novice question: how does one easily tell the difference between Atlas codes 83 & 100 is the former always nickel-silver and the latter brass? I have just two 12" #6 turnouts that are silver, the rest is brass, and notice the rail conx do not as smoothly match up.
Track has come as brass, steel, and as nickel-silver. Easily, the more modern nickel-silver is the best to use, but it's not without its problems. Nickel-silver (NS) rails do develop an oxidized coating, but nickel-silver, itself, as an alloy, does not really tarnish. Further, the oxidized coating is actually conductive. Just poorly so. If you decide to purchase NS rails, be sure to keep them clean by running a cleaning car over them about once each month, less if you use the trains every other day or so. Also, a thin veneer of kerosene or mineral spirits, distributed either by hand or with an applicator/cleaner car like the CMX car ($$), will keep oxygen from getting to the bared metal. Just the barest whiff of a coating, NOT dripping into the ballast. They'll ruin your ties and stink to high heaven. The codes do match up if they're Code 83 and Code 100 Atlas. I can't speak for the other suppliers, like Micro-Engineering, Walthers, or Peco. Those are all excellent products, but the only one I know that you can mate successfully is Atlas, and that's because their Code 83 ties are higher/thicker, which gets the rail bearing surfaces flush. Also, they supply universal joiners for use when mating the two. So, with Atlas at least, you can mix 'n match. I don't have enough early years in the hobby to say definitively, but I don't think brass tracks have been available widely for about 40+ years. Steel for a while, but it had its problems...not sure what they were. NS works if you take the time to maintain it. We're talking about 10 minutes a month, less if your rolling stock runs over it at least twice a week to keep dust off it.
actually anything that somehow seals the surface of the track and helps prevent oxidation will work. i use no-ox myself and have not cleaned in several years now ...
Not according to the article published in MRH about five years ago, wvgca. They broke all the popular fluids into two groups, polar and non-polar, and found that the non-polar fluids did much better over time at keeping the rails both cleaner and with better conductivity. Highest on the list was kerosene, which can be had for a couple of dollars in a bottle at your camping supplies section, and also very highly placed were WD-40 Contact Cleaner and CRC...if I have the last one correctly. Lacquer thinner, ATF, Wahl's Clipper Oil, they were well down the list.