I really love these Task Force Chevy trucks. Eric does amazing trucks. I really enjoy his stuff. Joao
Yep Joe, I’m still Lance - at least I was the last time the wife yelled at me…. Yes, the turn signals are doable with the tip of a toothpick dipped just once into the paint and then applied - just don’t shake too much - The logo and trim are also doable with a good 18/0 brush. And even if it’s not 100% perfect, who’s gonna know if viewing with the naked eye? Good luck…..
I finished the Silversides during the week: I started working on a Z Maker GE 44 Tonner. I started by drilling out the lens holes with a 1/16" bit, then shrink wrapped a pair of 0402 size LED's: I pressed in the LED, then dabbed UV resin on top, and let it sink in a but then hit it with UV to form the light's lenses: I left service loop on the LED's wires so I can access the shell easily, and I wired in the mechanism electronics: All I did was use the Searails constant intensity lighting schematic and used a pair of 3.9V zener diodes in series with a 220 ohm resistor, which keeps the motor stopped until 3.9V track voltage is reached, while the LED's will pick off that 3.9V and use it to illuminate. I used a 3K resistor for the LED's and that is visible top right where I will solder one leg of the LED's, and I was able to fit the 2 zener's and 220 ohm resistor in the resistor cubby in the rear of the mechanism: Still need to get the Shorty trucks installed, then paint and make decals.
That is not a shorty chassis. TheZMaker designed the chassis and it is made from Shapeways brass and FUD parts. The motor is from Tramfabriek. Only the trucks, and worm gear from the shorty are re-used with the 44 Toner (Not shows is Robs photos yet).
My workbench/garage had become too cluttered to do much of anything. Mostly project creep from other things automotive related, irrigation, etc, that Arduino thing. Got it cleaned up enough to get working on the layout again, trying to remember where I left off. I even found time to run some trains.
Curn, Nice little spot on your workbench, kind of reminds me of my setup. No dedicated train area. Nice little layout as well. Scott
Did a little work on my 44 Tonner today. I tried to clip the truck sideframes apart, but the part shot into oblivion. I didn't even hear it land, so while the part was in flight it must have changed states from solid, to liquid, to gas, and dissipated into the atmosphere as I never could find it. So I was forced to draw up my own out of .01" peel and stick Vect-O-Board, as Chris dubbed it: I applied the truck sideframes and brush painted them Vallejo black, then shot the shell with Tamiya fine white primer. As I thought about is a bit, I decided I really want MTL couplers on mine so I can try and switch, but to the best of my skillset, I could not do much for the ugly appearance of them sticking out so far. I have to do something, but what? I paused a few days, and today it came to me, maybe i could make a wider front platform to sort of hide the coupler. The other thing is I cannot paint it white and green Boise Cascade as I intended, instead it has to be a black locomotive to help hide those unsightly couplers. Switch gears again back to an NP loco. So I airbrushed the loco Floquil Engine Black, which is a flat color. I know it looks gray, but it's black, just my funky LED bench lighting showing it's effect: After the Floquil set, I shot it with Automotive Clear Gloss, which is a thicker spray, but it makes a great base coat for applying decals: And I spent several hours drawing up decals for the model, so I end the day by printing out a sheet and overcoated the Alps wax ink with Microscale Liquid Decal Film. I use a super soft paintbrush and a heavy coat over the decal paper, and the decals will be just right when dry. Tomorrow I will apply the decals:
Rob, Nice SBS and great work! Nice save on the lost side frame. Love your solution for hiding the couplers! Scott
Rob, The platform concept, execution, and quality of appearance is just phenomenal, wellllllll as is the rest of the project --- shell, railings, etc. Is it a safe assumption that the platforms were made out of the VECT-O-BOARD material --- I see a peel and stick piece tear off in the photo. I need to look into that stuff. Does it come in various thicknesses. Obviously it works well with your laser cutter. Lance
The black material is actually .010" Polybak, but Chris Tatarian was the first person to ever order any for use laser cutting, and since the people who first ordered the white .015"Polybak for laser cutting named theirs Laserboard, Chris named his black .010" material Vect-O-Board to differentiate. Back in the day you had to order a whole pallet of the material at a time, so he resold it to other laser cutters. Polyybak is designed for use in making kitchen countertops so needed a degree of waterproofing, but still had to glue like wood. Formica on top and sides glued to particle board, MDF, or Plywood in the center and the bottom sealed with Polybak makes a kitchen countertop. Described as Polyester impregnated cellulose fiber sheet, an east coast hobby woods supplier ordered some and began reselling it as Laserboard to people with laser cutters.
That 44 tonner looks really cool! Truly a nifty was to help conceal those couplers. I’m always impressed with your work but often it’s those simple things you come up with that impresses me cause it’s obvious….only after you see it!
What’s with the ‘Like’ button????? I can only click it ‘once’ Nice save on the coupler covers. Plop a couple yard jockeys on them.
Great work on your 44 ton NP engine. Like your pilot platforms for your Micro Train couplers. Here’s the progress on my Boise Cascade 44 Ton engine. I cut out the middle window frame and added sun visors from styrene. Primed the brass for paint, then painted white from a Testors spray can. Thought about for a long time as how I was going to mask for the green paint. With handrails in the way and the different angles on the engine, I decided to free hand brushing the green paint. I mixed half light green and half gunship green Vallejo paints to match the photo. I then proceeded to paint the hand rails, couplers with the appropriate paint. I gloss coated the whole engine for future decals. Only what is left is decals, lighting and windows.
First time using Tru-color Paint. Turns out this is an acetone based paint. I tried using Testors thinner, does not work at all! Did find some Tru-Color thinner. First time didn’t thin down enough, and it really gummed up my air brush. Took awhile to finally ungummed the paint out of the airbrush. Thinned the paint quite of bit, and was able to finally apply the Western Pacific pumpkin paint on the S2 Z Maker model. Wait until dry, and apply gloss coat. Lighting decals and windows are what’s left!
I finished my NP 44 Tonner today. I applied the decals I printed yesterday They are not perfect, but I snuggled them as best I could. After sealing with another coat of Auto Clear Gloss i shot a layer of Testors Dullcoat. Next was to install the window glazing, then solder the constant intensity directional lighting on the mechanism: And after testing operation working, a shot of the 44 Tonner in yard service: Video Proof:
WOW x10 --- I really like that black and yellow paint scheme. Interesting, and we know the camera catches the good and bad when it comes to photographing Z-scale, but the camera caught the good with the platform covers. Even with the tight shot, the platforms just have that well worn, grungy, gunked up look one would expect of yard equipment. I can imagine with the naked eye, this unit is really sharp and realistic looking. Nice work.
