This is a WiTcontroller throttle similar to one I built ( HERE ) but with a stalk and controls on the top of it that represents the 'barrel' control stand that was found in GP7/GP9 cab's. I have a number of GP7'S and GP9's and after looking at.... …. the control stands in them decided that …. … I'd work at copying them to some degree. I couldn't copy them exactly but went for a 'kind of looks like' one approach. I could of gone somewhat smaller but needed the room for the pots I was going to use and didn't want mini-controls on the throttle. Since it will be 3D printed it won't weigh all that much more than the one on the right and it is very light. The control stalk raises a touch over 3 inches above the top of the case. Looks like more in the images. I wanted the control handles to feel like you are actually using something larger than what you use with most throttles. I won't know if that was the right move until I get this printed and together. I am about a day away from printing what is shown above. If I'm happy with that I'll modify the bottom of the case for the other one to fit this one. This project is still a long ways from being completed. I'm hoping to use all the parts that are used in the WiTcontroller throttle with the addition of the 3 pots. The code for that throttle, written by Peter Akers (EngineDriver), will work but not for the three levers/pots as written. I could write some of that but for sure couldn't add it to the rest of Peter's WiTcontroller code. I'll report back when there is more progress. Sumner
Thanks Sidney, and should have all the print files up in a few days but won't post them until there is software unless someone wants to print them now. No time frame for the software at this point. The first print of most of the top part of the throttle. Before finishing up the design of the case top, middle and bottom I thought I'd better see how I liked the control stand at the top. Designs can look quite a bit different on a computer vs. printed and in your hand. I need to make a couple tweaks to the design but minor ones as I'm happy with how this is coming out. Somehow I printed two brake handles so the reverser handle that is shown needs to be printed. The controls work well and I like the feel of them. The throttle handle has 9 positions total, idle and 8 throttle steps. I designed it with a ball bearing in a round channel pushed by a ballpoint pen spring and a set screw for pressure adjustment. Works as good or better than I hoped it would. Easy to move the handle from detent to detent and easy to adjust the feel. The brake and reverser have no detents but also have fewer positions so not the need for such precise positioning. The reverser at the bottom is either centered or to one side or the other so it will be easy to read the pots position and know where the lever is. The brake will be either off or a couple positions before being full on, so more of a 'feel thing' vs. precise steps like the throttle needs to be. All of the controls only read about 120 degrees of the pots travel/resistance. I believe that is plenty even for the throttle to determine where it is and what to do based on that position. I put the multimeter on it and the throttle is very repeatable for the detents. I won't use the exact reading at any detent position but a range on both sides of there. Will write some simple code next to read the pots and if all is good after that print the rest of the case out and the top for this section of the throttle. A link to the build on my website (HERE). To be Continued …... Sumner
well im pretty happy with my current throttles (Thanks again for that build ) but this looks like it would be great for DC type locos . i can see these being implemented on Dc layout I dunno about DCC but ill for sure be watching to see it progress. Being its like the real deal on locos this could very well be the next great throttle build.....could be a pretty complex build having three encoders in tight areas..... also looking at it could be bulky as well.. looking forward to see how this plays out.......Thanks for sharing ..love seeing new ideas...
The throttle will be DCC only. The case is about an inch longer than the ones you built, the same width and thickness. The left side sticks our for the display. Of course the control stalk sticks up but didn't want to try and make it smaller as I wanted it to look somewhat like a real one on GP7/9 and wanted the control levers to feel like you are really controlling something not flipping switches or turning small knobs. Of course the real test will be how it feels once done. I think the actual case minus the stalk sticking up is smaller than a Proto Throttle. They do have a ring on their case so it can be attached to a lanyard and hang from your neck if you need both hands for something else. Might have to look into that?? Main thing is to get the software up and running so one can get a feel for the whole experience. Sumner
Put up a video of testing how repeatable the resistance readings are on the pot connected to the throttle handle on the HandCab throttle.. .... Turned out they were very repeatable in .... ... both directions moving up and down through the 8 speed notches (detents). More info on the throttle build to this point (HERE) and a link to the YouTube video (HERE). Sumner
VERY nice work there Sumner. your really coming along with this. Im liking this .....Thanks for the video, it really puts in perspective the size ect.... This could maybe be my next throttle all though i really love the one's i have. One more build certainly would be fun..
HandCab WiFi Throttle – Part 3... Assembly images...... . . . . . . . . . For a YouTube showing how repeatable the throttle is with the detents click on the image above or ( HERE ). To be Continued …... For this whole build go ( HERE ). Sumner
Sidney I can't imagine you putting off this build for ever even if you don't use it . The point of using it is still quite a ways off. Lots of code has to be written yet and tested. The wiring isn't basically any different than the wiring you did for the WiTcontroller throttle. 3 sets of neg/pos to the pots and three additional wires from them to the ESP32. The rest is the same. Sumner
HandCab WiFi Throttle – Part 4... More assembly images...... . . . . . . . . . To be Continued …... For the whole build of this throttle go ( HERE ). Sumner
very nice.... side note...ya its luring me into trying to build it just to build it. clever how you used same throttle and just added to it with the hand levers... im finding this quite interesting.....
HandCab WiFi Throttle – Part 5.... Time to get something inside the throttle body...... . . . . . . . . . To be Continued …... For the whole build of this throttle go ( HERE ). Sumner
love the write ups. very detailed....i have not worked on my RR for a while,been getting things ready for move to bigger house. i might at that time try an build one of these when i get reorganized. have you been working any one your layout ? have not seen anything in a while...
No . I got wrapped up in designing the sawmill complex and then this HandCab throttle. Been averaging about 6 hours a day 7 days a week on those. Hopefully about done. Need to finish the building over the bark stripper and the rest of the chain to move logs into the sawmill and will consider the sawmill done for now. Might finish getting the HandCab built/put together today. Then need to test it with the software that I've written that will read the throttle, brake and reverser pots. Probably will need to rewrite some of it but think it is done. My code needs to be integrated into Peter's WiTcontroller code that works on the throttles you build and that or on my site (HERE). I think he still has a week of vacation and then don't know when he will be able to get to it when he returns. It is too complicated for me to do that part as this is only the second coding I've done for an Arduino/ESP32. This throttle will, should have, all the features of that one with the addition of the more realistic throttle, brake, reverser and horn controls added. So about done with these detours and will get back to scenery and track laying very soon I hope. Miss it and walk around the stalled progress every day so it has been eating on me. Congrats on the move to a bigger house. When does that happen? I moved a lot and hope to never do it again. Sumner
HandCab WiFi Throttle – Part 6... Lots of wiring ...... I buy the Striveday 5 color wire packs (box with wire holes) in 22 and 30 gauge for wiring. Most all of this wiring is the 30 gauge. Used it on the other throttles with not problems so hope that holds true. A couple more colors would help on distinguishing wires during the build. To make up for that I take the magic marker and band some of the red, blue and yellow wires as shown above. I'll try to stay true to the colors shown above during the build and would recommend that you do the same if you build the throttle. One can remap any of the buttons to different functions except B2 (horn). That button is connected to the horn lever on the right side of the control stalk (not shown above). All of the other buttons could be remapped to a different function. Also all the keys on the keypad can be mapped to functions. For example if you have a sound decoder that has multiple functions B5 could be mapped to the coupler sound and one of the keypad keys, say #1, could be mapped to Drive-Hold. Time to start attaching wires to the two solder pads. Sorry that I haven't shown the horn lever yet but wanted to show the limit switch that it contacts to sound the horn. The blue signal wire from the limit switch is soldered to one post of the B2 button switch (second horn switch). The signal wire to pin 25 of the ESP32 is also attached to the same post. Pushing the button switch or activating the horn lever on the control stalk will sound the horn. . . I've found that if you overheat these button switches while soldering the leads on they likely won't work or won't work reliably. If the plastic at one of the posts gets hot and the post can move around you might have to throw the switch away. I tin the wire, put some liquid flux I like on the post, slide the wire in, have the tip of my iron clean and put a dab of solder on it. Have my $15 60 watt iron as hot as it can go and quickly dab the iron/solder on the post and wire. You should see the solder flow almost instantly. Remove the iron after it is on the solder joint for less than 2 seconds. As soon as you see the solder flow remove the iron. This is typical of how to solder most of the wiring in the throttle. I have my iron on full hot (iron setting says 450c – not sure if it is). I clean the tip between almost every solder joint with the sponge or tip cleaner or both, just takes a second. Flux, hot iron, watching for the solder to flow and getting on and off quickly is key to not melting wiring here or wiring to your track. More on the $15 irons (love them) and the flux I use and other soldering tips ( HERE ). You don't need a high dollar soldering station to have success soldering but doing it will make it easier over time. . To be Continued …... For the whole build of this throttle go ( HERE ). Sumner
