I have in the past used Dullcote paint (I forget which brand at the moment) and it turned out to be shiny after it dried. I have used it mainly on scenery. Any reasons for this shine and are there any ways of getting rid of it? I was also wondering does Dullcote 'react' in different ways to different kinds of paint or glues? If so what should I watch out for? Typically I am not using any gloss or high gloss paints, although there could have been an enamel paint or two mixed in there. I have recently built a new structure out of wood and used plain white Elmer's Glue on it to hold everything together. After painting the structure with a flat non enamel paint the places where I have glued it are shiny through the paint. I am hesitant to spray Dullcote on it for fear of getting all the surfaces shiny. Any recommendations? Mr X
I always use a prime coat before I paint the final finish on all structures. Stay cool and run steam....
Yes, Dullcote will affect different types of paint differently, The same reason why you don't put sharpie pen ink on and then dullcote it. I use gloss coat paint then apply the dullcote over it. I use Testor Dullcote.
I got back to the place where I could check the paints specifically. The Dullcote is Testors Dull Cote 1260 in a spray can. The paint that I am currently worried about for the structure is Tamiya Color XF-9 Hull Red that was painted on scale wood and Elmer's Glue was used to hold it together. Any ideas if these should be compatible and leave me with a dull finish? Or should I do something else to the white glue areas to tone them down and take the shine away? Mr X
I spray Testors Dull Coat over Tamiya colors all the time with no ill effects but as I have mentioned here many times, I use a hair dryer to force dry the 1260 dull coat. The faster you can get it to dry, the better the dulling effect and the less chance of lifting, crazing or running. One exception to this. Sometimes I airbrush glosscoat over areas painted with flat finish to prevent decal "hazing". There have been times when I have done this where the dull coat does not dry dull on the areas where the gloss coat was sprayed. When this happens I break out the Model Master acrylic dull coat and use an air brush to dull the entire model. In fact, more and more recently I have been using the acrylic dull coat over the 1260.
White glue is smoother and less absorptive than wood, so it could appear shinier even with dull coat. I try to sand it off if I can.
Well, with out telling her, :cool6xb: I borrowed my wife's hairdryer to dry a coat Dull Cote paint on the mine. It seemed to work fairly well. I just wanted to say this was a very good suggestion. The paint did tone down most of the shine from the glued areas, but it still remains in others. Should I give it another coat or keep re-coating the surface until the shine is gone? Also the Dull Cote seemed to become shiny on one flat surface that I thought did not have any glue on it. Should I just keep repainting here to get it to tone down? Mr X P.S. Everything worked out fine with the hair dryer so I did end up telling her about using it.
I haven't used Dullcote myself, but I seem to recall seeing something about it going 'glossy' if you use more than a very thin coat at a time. That may fit with the trick of using the hairdryer - perhaps it needs to dry quickly to be matt.
I wanted to share a photo of how the Dull Cote turned out on the mine. The deck just to the left of ladder is the only spot where it is still a tad bit shiny. Other photos of this mine and other portions of the layout can be found at my rail images at the link below. Some of the pictures show the glue on this mine. Mr X P.S. I did not ruin the hair drier since paint was no where close to it. Thankfully ... since it was brand new.
Wow! Sure does look nice as it is. Maybe a little chalk would dull that deck more to your liking? Very nice job. I'm going to check the album, too.
Yes, you need to get a hair dryer that will be dedicated to modeling use. One that has different heat and blower speed settings is best. One caution is that you must be careful using high heat around the thin plastic handrailings and the like. I learned this first hand many years ago on an Atlas Kaolin tank car.
To answer your question about shine after dullcoat, for my photos I noticed that some angles still had shine to them, I use a fine dusting of neutral color chalk over my dullcoat , dull coat over my weathering. I do not seal over my chalk weathering with dullcoat. my preference. Why do I do this ? Because the chalk is a texture that resembles dust and dirt and when hit with sealer turns to a different texture. Your airbrush or can sealer will also blow away some chalk dust. Hope this explains how to hide shine after dullcoat.
I have read that over thinning dullcoat will cause it to gloss. Perhaps the can was not mixed right or was old or it was just sprayed on too heavy. It does look a little thick where the posts meet the deck in one of your photos although it may just be the lighting. I airbrush Polly S dullcoat and stay within the manufacturers recommended ratio of thinner to paint with light enough of a coat to just get the shine off.
