Apologies if this is the wrong place.. So for installing your DCC Decoders, what soldering iron are people using and what solder are you using??? I have an old clumsy iron, that I feel is way too big for the job. Are there different ones for different applications?? Better/Worse? And is Solder solder - eg are there different/better ones for fine work such as N Scale wire?? Thanks Bruce
Most of the recommendations I've seen suggest a pencil-style soldering iron in the 30 to 40 watt range. The more expensive units have replacable tips. Higher wattage ratings are available, but may get too hot for fine soldering work. Yes, there are different varieties of solder. Solder used to be a mixture of lead, tin and, sometimes, a little silver. Most solders now are lead-free. Depending on the make-up of the solder, melting temperatures vary. Wikipedia has a good listing with lots of information here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder Hope that helps. Darrell, quiet...for now
Bruce I use a Weller 25 watt pencil soldering station or gun, here is a link http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/CF_Files/model_detail.cfm?upc=037103593597 or this 40 watt unit is quite nice too http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/CF_Files/model_detail.cfm?upc=037103059963 For solder I use Kester rosin core solder 1mm or .039" about a Lb of it sells for $4.00 Can
If you plan to do a lot of soldering and don't mind the expense you can pick a very nice metcal off of ebay that is in great shape. I prefer them because that is what I used the most at a prior job of mine. What's great is how quickly you can change tips and how small of a tip you can get. Also don't forget to pickup some liquid flux!!! The reason why I say this comes from training that I had where if you tin some stranded wire, the flux actually helps the solder tin the wire so much easier. True you don't have to do like Steve states below but it really makes soldering easier. I actually had to learn all the proper J-standard soldering techniques and this helps with the proper way of doing things.
Well I use a Weller WESD51 its a little pricy but the iron it self is small and easy to handle and you can set the temp so it can not be changed. It also is made for this kind of work. Good iron. I personnaly dont use any liquid flux just use a solder with flux and that has always worked. Steve
Good answers all. Bruce, I'd steer clear of any solder without lead if you can avoid it, as non-health conscience as it sounds, until you get more adept at soldering. Since DCC items are small there is increased scope for damage to occur through overheating the components, or any plastic parts, by applying the iron for too long. Having lead in the solder lowers the melting temperature and reduces the risk of overheating. Yes, I have had wires come astray of the boards and needed to reattach. Personally, I use a soldering station similar to the Weller with variable temperature and a 25W iron. I score it at Jaycar on special for around $100. And if you need a fire extinguisher close by the iron to far too large (think kerosene torches used by plumbers before the advent of butane torches).
I've not used lead free for electrical, but it can be a nightmare for plumbing I've used a temperature controlled iron for as long as I can remember now. 50W I think. Heats up fast, doesn't overheat, has the power for 'bigger' jobs (like joining to track). Costs a little more, but for a beginner it'll be like learning on an automatic instead of a stick shift.
Thanks people, food for thought. I was thinking lower Watt, and smaller unit would be the best bet compared to the thing I have a moment which could solder the QE2 back together... Thanks again.
Weller makes a great little CORDLESS iron that MicroMark sells. It is great as long as you aren't planning to use it for hours on end. Also...with regard to fire extinguishers...I just bought two halon extinguishers. You want Halon or CO2 (gas...no powder) so if you ever have to use it your layout or tool table won't look like a snow storm. They are a bit pricey...I paid about 90 each for them. Steve E.
In Australia, yellow (Halon) fire extinguishers are illegal to own or use on a fire, unless an essential use exemption has been granted.. ( 13yrs in NSW RFS I learnt something )
Just another thing to keep in Mind - Im in Australia - home of 240 Volt, unlike USA 110V which makes things a little more challenging. will check Jaycar since mate is manager of the local
Actually the ones I have are filled with a new formula...Halotron 1. They are made by Badger Fire Protection. It is FAA approved for use on aircraft among other things. Here is a quote from a web page: This new Amerex Halotron I extinguisher provides an environmentally acceptable substitution for Halon 1211 that is extremely low in ozone depletion effect as well as global warming effect. It provides an environmentally balanced alternative that is needed for the airline industry. Halotron I is the most widely used halon 1211 replacement and is carried by four of the five major US fire extinguisher manufacturers, including Amerex, Badger, Buckeye, and Kidde. Steve Ervin
Gary...I was remiss in calling it Halon (see above). These new Halotron 1 extinguishers are red and not yellow like the old Halon ones. They are cheaper than a CO2 extinguisher at least in a small size. No permit or other special certificate needed. I would think these would be available in Australia too. Steve E.
