Need help with tortise machine

Hello everyone Iam new to the site so go easy on me. Iam starting the track laying on my layout and Iam using atlas code 80 track and tortise machines. I have noticed that I dont have a hole in the center of my throwbar but one each on the sides. Do I drill one in the center or use one of the ones on the side? Will this effect the operation of the turnout ?

 

Welcome to TrainBoard!

It's OK to use the hole on the side - that's what I did with my C55 Atlas turnouts. It doesn't make a difference in my eyes.
Also, with the end of the throwbar used you can use a small piece of .005" styrene with a slot cut in it to slip around the actuating pin and cover the hole in the roadbed. No ballast falling down the hole that way!

Hint - if you are using solid benchwork (MDF, plywood, etc.) and have a few of these to mount, make a template from 6-9mm MDF or Masonite using the supplied drilling guide in the instructions. Drill pilot holes for the mounting screws with a small bit and drill the same hole diameter as used through the benchwork for the actuating pin for all Tortoises.
Fit a styrene or brass tube into the template and have it protrude 6-7mm (1/4"). Dress the end of the tube so it will slip fit into the hole in the roadbed from underneath. Align the template to the switch orientation and simply drill your pilot holes through the template. There should be a little play for adjustment when the Tortoise is screwed into place.
Remember to centre the Tortoise drive and the turnout switches when installing. This will provide equal drive in normal and reverse.

The template I made is set up for both Tortoises and Blue Point machines.

 

You been peering over my shoulder hey Gats!!??:tb-rolleyes: I made a template for my tortoise units exactly the way you described! It certainly makes mounting them very easy.

 

Is that great minds think alike, or fools never differ? I forget... :tb-wacky:

Bet yours doesn't have provision for Blue Point installs... :tb-tongue:

I saw the photo of your tortoise wiring under the layout. Very nice! Did you create a circuit diagram as well?

BTW, I modified the circuit board by soldering in a 8-pin header socket with .156"/4mm spacing like the tortoise board. The matching plug locks into the socket and fits snug. No soldering - these have crimped locking spring terminals in the plug. Jaycar has them.

 

Thanks guys for the answers and tips. Iam sure you will see me a lot on here. The guys at my local train shop have very few or no answers to problems. This site is going to be great.....Thanks again

 

cableguy-

Welcome.

I also made a template.

Tip- If the wire that comes with the machine is not long enough to hit the turnout, you can replace it with a longer length of the same diameter wire (available at a good hobby shop- they carry it for RC equipment-). It will work with the longer wire up to a point. Remember, the travel on the top of the wire is much less than on O or HO, so there is a lot less room for error. I would also suggest an edge connector to connect to the Tortoise. They cost about $3 each, but if you mess up the soldering, it saves you money. Also, it can easily be reversed if you want the throw goes backwards or if you have a particular scheme as to main and siding on your schematic.

 

Gats,

Do you have the jaycar part number by any chance?

 

Ridin' -

Jaycar HM3438 - 8-way header with crimp pins and HM3448 matching 'socket'. $1.20 and $0.56 respectively in single units.

HM3448 on the Tortoise circuit board;



Four of the offset holes need to enlarged and the other four re-drilled. The pins are rather hefty so a 2mm drill bit was used for both. Soldering is straight-forward - just watch for the pins sliding out of the socket if it gets too hot. Push them back as the plastic cools with a pair of long nose pliers if they do slip (don't ask how I know!).



The HM 3438 plug end. The two coil wires are not connected as yet as I direct connect to NCE Switch-its. The tail wires are for the frog power routing (RD/BK/YL) and point detection (BL/WH/LY). These are terminated with bootlace ferrules and into termination blocks close by.



The plug and socket together. The locking tab is very strong so these will never separate. The wiring will break or come out of the crimps first. Care needs to be exercised when separating.

 

As the torts are in close proximity to the NCE Switch-8 decoders there really was no need to draw up a circuit diagram. I did note down as to what decoder output connects to what Tortoise tho.

Btw, I like the removable connections. It's a pity this thread wasn't posted a month or so ago as I would have gone that route myself.

 

Hi and wellcome aboard,Use the out side holes,Don,t try to drill out the center.You may brake the slide bar(Don't ask me how I know) drill about 4 real small holes and ream them out.If you are useing plywood and foam you may have to put an longer wire on the tort.
Have fun!!
JIM

 

Gats,

Thanks for the part numbers and pictures

 

Phil-

Please remember to use the search function at Trainboard when you have a question. I have found it a very useful tool.
This whole thing has been discussed several times in previous threads. Here are two of them.


Plug on connector for Tortoise? - TrainBoard.com

Tortoise v Bluepoint No Question is Dumb??? - TrainBoard.com

 

Cableguy541,

Welcome to Trainboard!

Don't worry about asking questions here--plenty of members will answer, or point you to threads in the past that covered your questions. Making a template is worth the effort with the torts--they are great machines but work best when mounted with some precision.

 

I never actually intended to ask (questions) back when I decided to use the tortoise. Most if not all questions where answered by checking out circuitron's web site. Whilst browsing Litchfields site I came upon the blue Tortoise edge connectors that I thought at the time where the only thing available. Seeing Gats's post above just gave me food for thought, that's all!

I do use the search function here on Trainboard btw.