Has anyone been able to replace the rapido couplers on a old Rivarossi GG-1 with micro-trains couplers?
Welcome to TrainBoard. Micro Trains makes a coupler conversion for the GG-1. All Micro Trains conversions are stored on their website in a PDF format. It will take a little searching to find it. let me try to get you a few links. Micro Trains. Under "Home" on their website, use the drop down menu to go to Conversions>N Scale. Select your manufacturer, open the PDF/Excel file and read the conversion number. GG1 says "No Conversion Possible." That stumps me; I have never seen that one before. Others will be more familiar with this, I am sure. I did replace the couplers on mine. I presume it was one of the short-medium-long shank generic coupler replacements. After replacement (on my original GG1 model) the trucks were so light that the engine did not track well at all.
The Rapido used the same trucks for the GG1 lead truck (a fairly credible model of a typical Baldwin pedestal tender truck) as they used on the Rapido / Revell Pacific/Hudson. The coupler was a typical T-Shank, so just about any T-Shank conversion coupler (which M-T unfortunately only sells in the loco-specific sets) will work. I usually dont bother with the fussy draft gear inserts, finding that the coupler spring keeps the coupler in place well enough... most of the inserts are somewhat loose in the draft gear anyway. Another good alternative might be the T-Shank Kato couplers... the current ones or the kind that were sent out to Hobby Shops to replace the couplers on the 2nd run Smoothsides and Budd Corrugated Cars. Charlie Vlk
Unimate/Red Caboose medium shank work great. Easy conversion. Takes 10 minutes at most. I believe that I had to sand down the t-shank thickness a little on mine. If you leave a little nub when you clip the shank off the plastic sprue, you will find that holds the spring in place quite well. Fast, quick and secure solution.
I have a feeling that the unnumbered T-shank coupler supplied with #2002 coupler kit for Kato Mikado will work. It replaces the Rapido coupler on the original Mikados. It does have the draft gear adapter (#1128) mentioned by Charlie. I have a couple of these I didn't use, opting for body mount couplers on the Mikados. Also instructions. PM me if you want to try them. Ben
I don't know if the offset shank coupler is required. The 2XXX series couplers were originally designed for the Kato Japanese stuff which had offset shank mounting height. Starting with the Mikado Kato went to the same standard for North American stuff (previous diesels prior to the Dash9 had straight shank couplers). Look at the orignal Rapido coupler to see if the "wedge" on the front of the coupler is in the same plane as the centerline of the shank. If so, the "normal" non offset T-shanks will work. If it is offset (some Rapido couplers on various brands are) then it will take a 2XXX coupler. Charlie Vlk
I had to use an offset one in mine. I don't know the production run number or if there was any variation in designs. Mine has the traditional Rivarossi european design features.
Who saves Rapido couplers? Anyhoo, 1049's that do fit were shown as still available with a new number on another forum. Ben
Would you like me to make a photo "how-to"? If you are familiar with european coupler pockets, then this isn't hard. I think that the Kato version would be a little flimsy...the additional thickness of the Unimate/Red Caboose helped fill the pivot portion of the pocket. I used product number RNP-51010 in the photo below.
MT 1049s in mine I have one bought on eFray. Arrived with broken knuckles (Thanks nimrod!) Just disassembled one end and after squinting my brains out, read MT1049. Looks like a nice snug fit, perfect centering action, no up and down slop but can't accurately judge the height w/o an intact coupler.
My GG1 required a considerable run-in time to smooth out. Also, I found that a liberal amount of gear grease was necessary...light machine oil just couldn't cut it.
Here we go....not hard. ***************************** 1) Remove the screw identified by the green arrow. When the screw is removed, the shell will come vertically off the frame. It is easy to remove, and the shell does not need to be pried apart like most Atlas engines. This is pretty standard for european design engines. http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/88650/ppuser/8166 ************************************ 2) You will notice that the screw is off-center. http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/88657/ppuser/8166 *********************************** 3) On the frame, the screw retention block also has the hole off center. http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/88658/ppuser/8166 **************************** 4) There is a deck piece that is retained by simply a clip fit. It is easy to remove. The arrow identifies where the deck is retained on the frame. http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/88660/ppuser/8166
5) You will notice in the picture the pivot/screw post, and the truck giude post. Each is identified by a green arrow. http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/88663/ppuser/8166 *************************** 6) You will observe two small pins that retain the coupler pocket cover. There are two holes in the coupler pocket cover that will wrap around these posts. http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/88664/ppuser/8166 ****************************** 7) Insert the tip of your screwdriver or the tip of an X-acto blade between the coupler and the coupler cover and twist. This will force the coupler pocket cover off of the coupler pocket. The picture shows a screwdriver inserted at the correct location. http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/88665/ppuser/8166 *************************************** 8) With the cover removed, you will observe the pins and associated holes. http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/88652/ppuser/8166
9) Simple twist and lightly lift the coupler, and it can be removed. Be sure that the spring doesn't shoot across the room.... http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/88654/ppuser/8166 http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/88653/ppuser/8166 ****************************** 10) After putting the new coupler in the revers order that you removed the old one, you must replace the coupler pocket cover. It is simply a press fit from directly above. Be sure that the pins hit in the holes, and that the cover is completely pressed back onto the truck. http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/88666/ppuser/8166 ******************************** 11) Now it is time to replace the shell. Be advised, there is a small guide clip/flange that will fit inside a guidance channel in the frame. The following two pictures identify the both the flange and the channel. The flange does NOT "clip" into the channel, it is simply a slip fit. http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/88655/ppuser/8166 http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/88656/ppuser/8166 ************************** 12) When you secure the shell to the frame, recall that the screw hole is off-center, and you will need to insure that the orientation is correct. That's it! I hope this was helpful. Resp, John "delljohnb" Baugher
np. my pleasure. I think that you will find that all the members here are a very friendly and helpful bunch of guys. Welcome to Trainboard! We're happy to have you here and look forward to your input.
Success! Thanks so much for the instructions and pix --- I managed to get the MT couplers and put them on my GG-1 with great success to my delight. Next I hope to find a way to put weights on the front trucks as well. Anyway, here's a picture of the GG-1 with the new couplers:
