I am using Peco code 55 switches on my layout. In the last couple of months I have painted and ballasted the track. I thought that I had masked off the points of the switches suffieciently to keep the power routing feature working. Now that it has been ballasted I am having bigtime issues. Going straight through the switch, I have no issues at this spot. Going into the diverging route though, their is no conductivity from the rail with the feeder to the diverging point. I have tried using a jewelers file to clean up the spot, but it doesn't seem to help. In this shot it is a completely different issue. I have to apply pressure to the throw bar to maintain enough conductivity for the train to run through. I have thought about cutting gaps and new feeders but am not sure if that will help much. I have also cleaned up the points with a file and noticed no difference. I am also sure that there is nothing in the way of the points locking closed for either direction. Has anyone else had these kinds of problems? Anyone have any suggestions? I am hesitant to lay any more track untill I can get this resolved so that I can either try to prevent it or build a fix into the new trackage early on. Thanks for y'alls help.
Andrew, I have had the same problem after painting and ballasting. Once you have cleaned all of the rails as thouroughly as possible, try tinning the points and the stock rails where the points come into contact. You have to be VERY careful with the heat of the iron not to soften any of the ties or the throwbar. Seems that even the smallest amount of glue or ballast keeps the 55 TOs from operating correctly.
Yes, I've had these problems, too, after ballasting. Usually caused by a stray, thin coat of glue - so the points look locked, but they are being insulated. So here's what I do to fix. First, check the area where the points contact the stock rail. You will notice that there is a small notch in the stock rail; often glue gets into this notch, just thick enough to keep the points from making contact. Take a hobby knife and scrape this area, and then scrape the points where they contact the stock rail. If that doesn't fix things, then I take a solvent (I usually try 90% isopropyl alcohol, but I've been known to use mineral spirits, too) spread on a paper towel end. Fold up the towel into a crease, and then fit it between the points and stock rail. Now use a finger to close the points against the wet towel, and move it back and forth a few times to clean any residue on the rails. Then make sure to blow out the rails because sometimes little scraps of paper towel will end up somewhere they are not wanted. If that doesn't fix things, then next I use a wire brush in a Dremel at its lowest speed, and run the brush back and forth between the stock rail and the points where the points contact the stock rail to polish things up. Try these and see if one helps. John C.
INHO, this is the only reason I hate this style of Peco turnout. I am working on a set of 6' NTrak modules and had to do all of the gapping, etc. But I solved the power routing issue by using tortoise switch motors and running a wire to the rails that extend from the frog (opposite the point rails) and tieing that to the DPDT on the switch motor to select which rail to get power from. I would suggest that if you continue having lots of problems, maybe one of those ground throws from caboose industries with the integral DPDT switch in it if tortoise switch motors are not able to be used. Automatic power routing is nice, when it works. The way these and many other switches are designed, just doesn't seem to make the most sense.
How is it that I tried to raise these exact same issues last month on another thread, and it was if I was some kind of evil monster? There are half a dozen of the regular posters stating that there are absolutely NO PROBLEMS with Peco turn outs. Hmmm.... not my experience, and apparently not the experience of other members here.
Had the same problem. As others have stated probably a little something like glue between the rails. Another thing I do that really seems to help( I will catch !@#$% for saying this) Is to slightly bend the tip of the rail so it is at a slight point where it contacts the rail. Hope that helps.
From time to time I have had a similar contact problem. First use a piece of metal to bridge the points to the stock rail to check for power. Then use a piece of folded emery paper (or similar paper abrasive) -now two sided- to clean both sides of the gap. A lesser, but still troublesome problem, is the voltage drop through a ladder or series of switches.
I had exactly the same problem after ballasting my switching layout with Peco ( code 80 ) turnouts. I had good results using the same technique as the one suggested by Richard ( Rutland1952 ) . A folded piece of fine abrasive paper did the trick. This might even be more critical for code 55, but when ballasting the turnouts, go easy on the ballast, use enough ballast on the turnouts just enough to hide the cork roadbed. Jacques
I would think any turnout would give problems with glue/ballast between the points and point rails. I use Peco, Shinohara, Atlas and Kato. Kato and Peco have been the best for me. Al
Maybe it's because the members who viewed this thread didn't see your thread posted 1 month ago :tb-smile: Jacques
I had the same problem with mine, always some kind of grime exactly where others have described, once I scrape it with an exacto knife it works again, anything can get in there, including residue from a brite boy. A constant battle even with power routing. my best, Jan
This is exactly what I do when some power routing does not work any more. So far it helped. Needless to say, the bending must be only minimal.
As I see it the problem is not with the turnout. The problem is with the method you use to apply ballast. It is too sloppy and allows glue to "wick" up into the point area. Try the method I learned from a guy who hand laid turnouts before it was fashionable to do so. First, pre wet your ballast in regular water then take your white glue or matte medium [full strength ]and with a small paint brush apply the glue to those areas you want to ballast. Then drain the ballast so it is only damp and with a small spoon and another implement apply the ballast to the glue tamping it down into the glue with a small diameter rod. The wet ballast will allow the glue to wick upwards bonding the top of ther ballast too. At the point area go easy on the glue and ballast. Let it dry and vacuum up the remainder. It is a lot neater and the glue stays where you put it. I also cut out the road bed under the throw bar so it doesn't stick. I have used this method on Peco code 55 turnouts and have never had a single problem. More time consuming than the other method unless you have to go back and clean out turnouts. One more thing, the ballast stays put and doesn't float so you don't have to go back and clean ballast off of the ties or the rail web.
Innkeeper makes a good point re: ballast, I do NOT ballast around the throwbar or inside of the switch, only along the outside and not at all around the throwbar, instead underneath switches I use stone creations spray paint, you'd be amazed at how it blends with actual ballast and has a semi-rough texture. I than ballast only along the edge of the cork and along the outside of the remainder of the switch, it helps alot. My problems with the switches (which are all power routed) are infrequent and occur only when some other ballast has fallen into the area during transport or briteboy residue has accumulated. my best, Jan
Thank you Inkaneer for that very detailed ballasting procedure.. I took good note of it and , for sure , will try it on my next layout. Jacques
I do the following tricks and have absolutely no problems with about 40 Peco switches: 1) before I lay them down, I connect the stock rails to each other and the frog with a wire. Let a bit slack and solder the wire as close to the frog as possible. alternatively, you can do it like Alan Gartner does it: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm However, this won't solve the problem you have with already laid turnouts. 2) When ballasting, after wetting the ballast with wet water, I apply sewing-machine oil (you can use any sticky oil) to the throw bar and the stock rails. It prevents the glue from sticking to unwanted parts of the turnout. If anything is unclear in my description, just ask. Hope this helps Michael
I have found the same problem even without ballasting. Using a track rubber can deposit tiny particles which are enough to "insulate" the rails. One solution which I have found works for me is to fold a small piece of 800, 1000 or 1200 grit wet and dry paper in half and place it between the switch blade and the other rail and using slight pressure on the throwbar to hold the switchblade against the paper and rail and then rub the paper back and forth. This cleans of the contact points and restores electrical connection. However, this can be temporary because as soon as a bit of dust or oxidisation occurs you are back to the same problem. So I wire the frogs so they are live as per previous posts but with a slight difference in that I don't cut any gaps and don't make any other modifications to the turnouts themselves like is suggested in the link to Alan Gartners article. What I do is:- Use Peco switch machines and attach a Peco PL-13 to the machine. I then solder a wire from one of the closure rails to the single wire tab on the PL-13. To the double side of the PL-13 I take feeders from the main bus (North and South) wires. When I throw the switch using the point motor the power is also routed via the switch attached to the point motor and if contact is made via the switch rails then through there as well. I also add insulating rail joiners on all four tracks exiting the turnout. Have had no problems with shorts and this method has resulted in faultless operation of all of my Peco turnouts. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of the setup atm and my camera battery is flat but can take some pics if anyone wouls like to see them. Oh, also forgot to add that this method can be done to track already laid. As for the prvious post on this issue I did see it but was busy at the time and didn't have time to reply. My appologies. Regards, Alan.
To improve contact at the hinge, I solder .010 inch brass wire across the hinge gap. It doesn't affect the snap capability of the turnout.
NOT Clean I would say that there is some glue or Ballast at the point of the switch. Where it makes contact with the stock rails. Try folding a small piece of 600 grit sand paper in half. Then insert this folded piece of sand paper between the point and the stock rail, move it back and forth several times while you hold some pressure on the switch point. Do both points and then clean with some contact cleaner on a small piece of paper towel. The sand paper will polish the contact aera, and cleaner will remove any debris that you have removed in the points contact aera.
I just wanted to thank everyone who left suggestions. I used the scrape with a knife and rubbing alcohol methods and the combination of the two worked. There are still a couple of minor intermitant issues, but I think they just require a little fine tuning. Thanks again!!!
