Cork on top of foam board?

The contents of this topic validate my experience with foam, glue and cork. Right now, because of special physical considerations I had at the time I laid track required me to use Homasote and Kato Unitrak.

I declined using foam because I am an "elbows on the table" kind of worker, and the foam will cave in under the weight of my arms. The club I used to frequent tore out its foam, cork, and code 55 because of too much use and elbows on the board while working on scenery, causing cave-ins and wrecks. it got to a point the entier layout was bordered by plexiglass to protect the trains from damages from being launched.

The club did not use nails except to hold track until the glue dried, and the glue used was the non-invasive type Titebond II, Elmer's Yellow, and Liquid Nails. All worked from cork to table, and track to cork.

Using foam and cork, you can rest assured that there will be little or no track noise.

I use Homasote and Kato Unitrak, and wanted to remain quiet trains, so I took some sponge insulating foam and cut narrow strips and placed the thin strip of foam under each section of Unitrak, except switches, using carpet insulation. There is a difference betweent he mainline which is foamed, and my spurs and yard which isn't.

Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

 

Thanks for the info Ken!

 

If you properly brace your bench work frame, you can use two pieces of two inch pink foam, followed by cork.

On my new layout which will be started in January, I'll use two pieces of foam, each of which is two inches thick. On top of the foam will be Unitrack. I was thinking of using N scale cork roadbed under the Unitrack.

On my original layout, the JJJ&E, I used foam on top of 1/2" plywood. The Unitrack was placed on top of the foam.

There are many ways to construct your bench work.

 

Matt

In keeping with the KISS principle, which is my guiding light, I would suggest that for your first layout you use sectional track. It is easier to mess up the flex track, leading to frustration and despondency.

For just one siding, even if on a test section near your workbench, try a slightly curved piece of flex track. See how hard/easy it is to work with.

BTW- never solder the flex track to a turnout. Always use a short piece of sectional and then the flex track. There is nothing like messing up a solder joint with a $6.00 turnout and winding up tossing it.

 

How I missed going back to this thread I'll never know! Just wanted to thank you 3 guys for your replies. I've received a lot of great help here

Thanks,
Matt

 

I've enjoyed reading this thread as well, its been real helpful.

Out of curiosity, when using liquid nails or other adhesives, how big of a bead should be used? Esp. between pieces of foam or when gluing track to cork or foam. I don't want to be heavy-handed.

Thanks,

Dan

 

When using a caulk adhesive to lay down your cork and even track you want about 3/16th to a 1/4 inch bead. Then spread the bead out with a putty knife so that you have an even surface area for adhesion. As a note if you use caulk to adhere track make sure that you use a very thin layer of caulk as it will come up through the ties. All you need is just enough to hold everything in place, not to build Fort Knox! I hope this helps.

 

Thanks for your help!

 

Dan I recommend removing the thin plastic sheet coat from the foam board before gluing anything to the foam. Although the sheet will hold glue for a while, it will start to release from the foam or from the cork eventually. On the other hand, if you are unhappy with your track plan and want to change it later, the sheet will release from the foam easily when you pull up the cork roadbed. So it's six to one......

 

I want to thank all of you for all of your input and opinions as they have been of great value to me. I am in the first stages of building my 1st module and deciding on which subroadbed to use, and throwing around the idea of what type of track evencode 80 and flex or Kato unitrak. I have a bunch of code 80 Atlas flex and sectional track, Peco switches, as well as a bunch of cork as well. I also have a small amount of new Kato unitrak which I am very attracted to using as well. I just feel that the unitrack will not give me the flexability I will need, especially in dealing with switches but others on this forum have mentioned it would not be an issue. My track spacing center to center is going to be 1 inch to 1 1/4 inch for mainlines and yard tracks which to me is more prototypical and the fact I am not worried about N Trak standards and such or being able to pick up a car. My subroadbed is going to be foam, at least 3/4 inch sheet on top of 3/4 inch plywood, just not sure I want to go with 2 sheets of foam or just one yet. I have been actually laying out trackwork on top of cork on top of bare plywood using thumbnails to just kind of getting a feel of it all and I am very pleased with the flex but unitrack is great as well in my opinion. I will take photos along the way to document my progress and no doubt I will have a bunch of questions I am sure. Again...main point here being...Thank You!

Dave

 

Dave:

I would use two inches of pink/blue foam on top of the plywood. In that way you could cut in some scenic effects in the foam. 3/4 inch foam won't allow you to do that.

Have fun....

 

cork

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this is my small lay out useing cork on foam