Hi all - I'm very green when it comes to model railroading. I've helped my grandfather a bit on his HO layout (all DCC, etc) so I know some of the very basics... DCC, etc... In recent weeks my grandfather has fallen ill but I've decided to finally get into this hobby. I have a 5 month old daughter who would love to watch trains go around with me (she's my excuse when I tell my wife why I'm doing this). Anyhow, with that said, I've opted to go with an N scale setup in my basement. At this point, I've done nothing yet. I've purchased an Atlas Decoder Equipped Engine and a use lot of 21 N scale rolling stock (just to have something to look at for now). I've ordered up 10 pieces of Code 55 flex track which will be arriving tomorrow. I still have yet to purchase my DCC system - I've been stuck between the NCE Power Cab and MRC Prodigy Express, but I'm leaning more toward the Power Cab. I guess my first basic question is about the track. What do layouts typically consist of? 100% flex track? Or a mix of flex track and standard pieces? I'm asking because I remember fussing with my grandfather's flex track trying to get an ideal radius, etc.. is that normal? Or is there another approach I should be taking? I have not purchased any turnouts yet but I'll be asking plenty of questions about those soon too. One thing at a time for now! Thanks!!! cute:
I think that most people who use flex track use it for pretty much everything (turnouts excepted, of course). My layout is entirely flex except I do use a few pieces of pre-cut track between turnouts in a yard ladder to make sure i get the track spacing on both sides of the ladder exactly even. Can I ask a question, though? If you are brand new to N scale, did you consider using a product like Kato's Unitrack for your first layout? Unitrack comes in a wide variety of track pieces, curve sizes turnouts, etc. It's mildly expensive (particularly the turnouts), but easy to set up and absolutely bullet-proof and if you later decide you want the greater flexibilty (pun unintended) of flex track, you can easily re-sell the Unitrack on e-bay for a significant portion of what you paid for it. I started with Unitrack myself, and I really think that there are enormous advantages to going this route at the beginning - it's not that flex track is that hard to work with, but there is a technique to using it, and good trackwork is a key to happiness in N scale. Things you can get away with in larger scales will cause problems in N (kinks in track work, both vertically and horizontally, that are barely noticeable in HO will cause locos to jump off the track in N). Just a thought. John C.
I'm open to all of the help/suggestions I can get. My main reason for going with the atlas flex track is pretty much because it's what I saw other people use. I had gone to a train show in the area a year ago and everyone there would insist that flex track was the way to go. It makes total sense that any problems in HO scale are magnified in N scale. I did investigate some of the other "snap tracks" and such, but opted to stick with what people I had talked to were "raving" about. You mentioned turnouts... that leads me to my next question... how are these hooked up electronically? Does anyone know of a good guide to installing throws (I think that's what they're called) for turnouts? Thanks!
First....Welcome to TrainBoard. You will find some of the greatest N Scale minds here. More helpful and friendly info then anywhere else I have found. Now...my suggestion. Grab a 36 inch HCD. Lay that flex in an oval around the outside edge. Get a train running!!! Nothing motivates like watching trains running. When I started back into trains a few years back...thats what I did. You can still see the original HC door with the original oval track and tunnel in my rail photos. You can always modify a track plan even once its been layed and you gather more track pieces. If you are comfy with flex track stay with it. Unitrack is easier but has its fair share of limitations IMHO. Another tool....Use the search features in the navigation bars. Type in key words or phrases. You will get loads of results and can read tons of threads on any subject. Above all...HAVE FUN! Thats what it is all about. .
Flex track is certainly the way most experienced modelers would go. If you went to a train show, you probably talked with a lot of experienced modelers who have been laying flex track for years. Again, I don't want to discourage you using it, but you'll find a LOT of people on this board who started out with (in fact, many who still use) Kato's Unitrack and think it is the best thing since sliced bread. If you do a search on this forum for "Unitrack" you will see many threads discussing it. With Unitrack, you can have a layout up and running in a half-hour. No kidding. And you don't have to worry about any special wiring for turnouts and such because Kato has already thought about that for you. As for what to do with turnouts using flex track, a good rule of thumb is as follows. Feed power to a turnout from the back end (behind the throwbar) and use insulating rail joiners on both rails at the front end (technically, you only need to insulate a powered frog, but if you insulate all 4 rails coming out of a turnout, you'll have an easier time tracking down shorts, using power districts later on and so forth). Model Railroader (Kalmbach Publishing) publishes several excellent books for beginners that cover everything from track laying to wiring to DCC. Check here for their list of wiring/DCC books. Kalmbach Publishing: Model Railroading: Books: Wiring / Electronics John C.
Hi, Some layouts are built with 100% flex, others are built with 100% sectional and others are a mix. I myself have about 98% flex on my layout. Using flex is really not that difficult to use, and it lets you have a radius that is not available with sectional. It also saves having to solder every 5 inches or so. A few things that I would suggest are Use a mix of sectional and flex. Use a piece of sectional track soldered to the flex at turnouts. Cut the sectional to fit as needed. When a joint of two pieces of flex are in a curve, solder the joints with the sections of flex straight and then put the flex into place. You will have to remove some ties so that the movable rail can slide. Remember to put the movable rails on the same side. Do not solder flex or sectional track to your turnouts. It permits relocating turnouts (and you most likely will) much easier without damaging them. The above suggestions are things I do, that work for me. They may work for you and they may not. Hope this helps Gary
Welcome to Trainboard. It is not an easy question to answer based upon the information you have posted. If you use flex track for a simple oval and maybe a turnout or two here and there, you can get away with it unless you are going to have a problem in cutting and soldering the pieces together and then filing smooth the places that need it. It is a skill. Depending on budget- a simple layout as I described will cost a few more dollars but it might be worth it just to purchase Atlas Code 55 sectional track. It is a lot easier to work with. If you have a few more dollars over that, Kato Unitrack is bulletproof and you will rarely, if ever, have a derailment due to shoddy trackwork. Basically, we have three issues; Cost Skill Frustration level. For your first layout, I would suggest going the safest, but most expensive way, lest you have a very high frustration level. Get your feet wet first and get instant gratification from your layout. BTW- You are NOT fooling anyone with the excuse that a five month old likes to watch the trains.
For DCC, here was the kicker for me: PowerCab supports all 28 functions defined by the NMRA std, the MRC system supports I believe 9
Wow.. I walk into a meeting for an hour and a half and come back and look at the responses! ha! I'm OK without the "instant gratification" of seeing something run immediately. I'm mainly looking at this as having something to putter with in my basement. With that said, one of the idea's I like about the flex track is I'm not restricted to perfectly straight track or a specific radius. I like the idea of doing an S-bend as I see fit, etc. Ok, stupid question time.. someone said "Grab a 36 inch HCD. Lay that flex in an oval around the outside edge. Get a train running!!" -- What the heck is an HCD? I thought about taking the 10 pieces of flex track I ordered and do an oval to get a train running but I got nervous about trying to tap into that loop with more track later on... That's why I was thinking I'd at least get a couple turnouts in place ahead of time.. As for my frustration level - I like to think I'm fairly patient. I've flown RC airplanes for a number of years and that's something that takes a fair amount of patience. Also, I have had experience with HO scale flex track and actually setting up an NCE Powercab... I helped my grandfather, and went I went to that train show with him I had actually bought an NCE Power Cab and some HO scale flex track. The HO scale was a little too large for where I wanted to setup and I actually ended up giving the stuff to my grandfather. So I have worked with the flex track, used liquid nails to lay the track and track bed, etc. I've cut the flexible rail when I made curves and such.. So I guess I do have a TINY bit of experience.
HCD = Hollow Core Door - got it. Amazing what search can find! I've already got an L-shaped bench partially built. If I wanted to get a basic oval going on this how hard is it to modify the track afterwards and put a turnout in it to expand? I've always watched people glue the track down and such with liquid nails.. I would imagine it's fairly destructive to try and modify the track later...?
Depends what you use to glue the track down with...and if you ballast it. I use a hot glue gun. Cut out the track where the turnout goes...clean up the ballast...remove a few ties on each end of the flex track...install the turnout. All you need to use is a 1 inch metal scrapper (putty knife) and carefully wiggle it under the track ties in the area you want a turnout. It can be tricky but I've done it more then a few times...with excellent results. :tb-cool: .
Hey a hot glue gun is a good idea! My grandfather always used the liquid nails small project cement... man.. I'll tell ya, when I tried to remove some HO track it was like trying to fight my way through concrete. Thanks again for all of the replies. When I dabbled in HO and helped my grandfather we used small track nails to secure the track. I'm assuming the N scale track is too small for that? Brace the track with something like pushpins while waiting for glue to dry?
Welcome aboard. I've used Kato unitrack on a Japanese prototype layout and would use it again if I do another but I'm planning on Atlas C55 flex and turnouts for my U.S. home layout. Flex track isn't that hard to use. I mostly fasten my track down these days with water based contact adhesive, Selleys Kwik Grip is the brand I use here in Australia, it works like contact cement but is water based so is easy to remove, I either temporarily spike it or hold it in place with drawing pins until the glue sets. For spiking track down myself and other N scalers I know use Shinohara HOn3 spikes. For operating your turnouts if you're going DCC I'd consider using Circuitron Tortoises with Hare decoders, I've installed one on the club's Ntrak yard as a guinea pig and it works like a charm. The decoder plugs onto the tortoise, you connect two wires to the track power and away you go. You can operate them from your throttle or from a panel with a push button or toggle switch, and if you place a gap on one rail before the turnout, the decoder will detect your loco and change the turnout if it is not set for the track it is on helping avoid shorts.
I just got done posting at the Atlas forum an observation I made at the recent OKC train show. None of the big N-Venders had much if anything in N-Scale track except Kato Uni-Track. After asking them about this the answer boiled down to; they sell $10 worth of Kato Uni-Track for every dollar they sell of all other brands and types of N-Scale track combined. The Uni-Track switches are arguably the most bullet proof* turnouts available with the added bonus they come with an integrated switch machine than needs no roadbed modifications to accommodate it, just a hole for the control wires. *The use of the term “Bullet Proof” is pure hyperbole and should under no circumstance be taken literally. Never attempt to use Kato Uni-Track turnouts in place of certified body amour. Lawyers!!
You can use the Atlas track nails with at least their Code 80 and Peco track (Code 80 or 55, either one); I've done it. Don't know about nails with Atlas Code 55 - does any of your flex track have holes either pre-drilled or spots on the underside for drilling through a tie? If there are spots for holes, then Atlas track nails almost certainly will work (though when I did this, I pre-drilled a hole into the roadbed with a #70 drill bit, then put the nail in with pliers to avoid pushing down on the ties too much). These days, however, I use Liquid Nails latex adhesive to lay track - but that's after I know EXACTLY where I want it, because once you put track down with this stuff, it's down forever. John C.
As a teen I used a mix. Flex was used for curves if sectional track was not availabl and any long straight segments such as in the yard. Since I re-entered the hobby I've been using and grateful for Unitrak. That said I'll be using flex in my yard for both visual and cost reasons. I'd say go with a mix as I don't recall it being that hard to lay.
I think this has a lot to do with atlas releasing their true track. Their switches also include an integrated switch machine. They just need to get a few more items out the door to compete on a par with unitrak. My issue with tru trak is the ballast color. It's the same cream color as their O scale track. I ordered some to replace my unitrak test loop. I like the look of the tie spacing and code 65 rail better. Plan on seeing how well using a black wash on the ballast will work in altering the color. Also ordered a couple of the tru track switches
