Let me ask, I really think I like the price of the MRC Prodigy wireless system. From what I can tell it does everything that digitrax and NCE do. Other that customer service, any valid reasons not to get that DCC? No bashing here please. I am more into the scenery and such than the run the cars. I do want to control turnouts and stuff with the DCC too.
No bashing.. Expansion is a big reason. If you start off small and goto a bigger layout, at some point the MRC system will hit it's ceiling and that will be that. A system like the Digitrax Zephyr or NCE Power Cab will allow you to start small and then expand from there. When I worked in a hobby shop, we sold just about all the DCC systems available. Alot of Bachmann and MRC guys wound up buying Digitrax cause they had gotten to that wall and could not go any further. But if you plan to just have a small layout, and 3-4 engines, the MRC system will work. If you can run on a layout with DCC, that would be a good thing to do. Art
Thank you for a very clear and concise reason. My layout will be 24x8 feet in a sort of J shape. Does that help size my needs? Run just 2-3 engines at the most? I am beginning to lean away from MRC and looking more intensely at NCE Pro5-R. Dang the price was so enticing, but I have seen not so good feedback after a several hour search.
I use an MRC Prodigy Express. I didn't select it because it was my first choice (NCE Pro was), but rather because it was a $90 clearance item and it handles my current layout, 1-2 locomotives at once, just fine. For my non-decoder equipped locomotives, I have a knife switch and an MRC Tech 4. I won't purchase another system until I have a massive layout and I'm ready to go wireless. I disagree a little with Dan on the L&Ps. Mixing L&Ps and knuckle couplers is an operational trade off...but I prefer having the proper couplers, where ever possible on equipment. Yesterday, I ran a train which consisted of a 2-8-0 with Grandt Line's knuckle couplers, followed by three cars with L&Ps, then a car with HO Kadees, a car with Grandt Line knuckle couplers, a car with On3 Kadees, and a caboose with L&Ps. The L&Ps were connected to the knuckles with brass staples. While not adequate for switching, they are fine as long as the train is moving forward. I plan on having L&P-knuckle idler cars in the future. I have a couple Ye Olde Huff'n Puff cars that I'm seriously upgrading (they needed it!) to serve in this role. Additionally, L&Ps were actually the standard freight car couplers until around the turn of the century. Passenger cars, on the other hand, mostly used Miller Hook Couplers. All three coupler types were interchangeable as Miller and Janney (knuckle) couplers had slots for L&Ps. NG roads tended to convert later than their SG peers. Some people use magnetic uncoupling, but most people I know don't. I don't like the whiskers (they sometimes cause other problems), and so I cut them off. That being said, I'm not all that interest in switching. I'd recommend trying it and seeing if you like it. You may find magnetic uncoupling to be the greatest thing ever, or you may view it as the Scourge of God (I do! :we2-jimlad. A model's ability to negotiate curves as a few variables. For locomotives, the single most important detail is how much slop is in the mechanism. I have HO 4-8-4s that can negotiate 18" radius curves, yet the Spartan series 4-4-0 I failed to win on ebay requires 32" curves. The factors are the rigid wheelbase, if the track gauge is widened in curve, the lateral play in the mechanism, blind (unflanged) drivers, and if the lead/trailing trucks hit anything. Whenever you see a locomotive offered in both On30 and On3 in which the On30 version can take a tighter curve, that is because the lead truck hits the inside of the cylinders. On the other hand, On30 rolling stock is usually more limited than On3 because the back to back distance on the wheels is greater in On3, allowing more rotation over center sills and other such details. As I understand, the B-man On30 2-6-0 can take 12" curves. Similarly, the 0-4-0ts ought to be able to take 6" curves. The downside with such tight curves is that the train behind the locomotive might not be able to make it...the coupler overhang could force the cars off the tracks. Coupler height isn't directly related to the wheel size. I plan on adding a few cars with 20" wheels and many with 24" wheels. Most of my current cars have 26" wheels. In these cases, usually the car body's distance above the tracks needs to be increased/decreased to adjust this. My primary prototype used couplers 26" above the rail head. Other cars I plan to build had 24" high couplers. I haven't decided if all my models will by 26" or not. IIRC, the real D&RG's gondolas were built with high bodies...these were lowered, much like the C&S cars, and so the couplers were in the frame rather than below it. I don't have a good photo to show this. For info on the famous Colorado lines, this site is pretty good: http://narrowgauge.org/ For California, this site is in development: PacificNG.Com Index page Michael
Well, so far I have a Bachmann 2 truck shay and a 0-4-0 porter. The main line will have 18' min's so HO could be run on it, but I really want to do pack in ruggedness. Got to talk ....well sort of, some dude kept interrupting, some people are so rude....to a gentleman that only works in the LHS on Saturday, which usually is not a good day for me. Anyhow, the long and short of the conversation is I will go with a Digitrax Duplex, just undecided between the Empire and SC. Either one is much more than I think I will ever need, but something in the back of my mind from RC helicopters is this is not a place to scrimp. Having a hell of a time figuring out a track plan with the space I have. Just about to try to put it into AutoCad so I can get advice. (I have to remember how to work the damn program....) I think all my cars are going to be a scale 30 feet or less too. Oh I forgot. I lived for many years in the Durango/Dolores/Rico/Telluride area. I have spent hours in the back country there. Dolores used to have the original Galloping Goose out by the highway. Ridden the D&RG many times. Full trips and half trips. (It gets way long when you have done it many times for visitors.) Anyhow, some of the old bridges, trestles, grades, and such are all still there, and in some case negotiable by horse. If it weren't for the cold I would say I really miss that country. J
With B-man's tiny shay and porter, 30' cars would look a bit odd (unless they are skeleton logging cars...which are not always compatible with On30). You can build a pretty cool layout featuring some of the 4-wheel mining cars and/or 24' logging flats. You might want to consider having a feature industry (or perhaps two, each with their own railroad...one lumber, one mining). What type of operation would you prefer? Point to point or continuous running? Would you prefer mostly switching, mostly mainline running, or a mix? Do you like engine facilities? These factors help you to decide your track plan. I personally prefer having both point to point and continuous running. Michael
Yes, I am seeing that I originally wanted too much, need to trim it down a little. Main theme logging. Would like to have mix, one running round and round and play with another in some siding or something. Repair shop is good. Sawmill. Maybe coal mine. Have to have logging area to go with sawmill.... Not sure about reversing loop(s) or one big loop with sidings. Kind of like the idea of much of return loop hidden except peeks over gullies or something. BTW, NG Gazette is cool. Yes, 20 foot car/flats and log cars and disconnects. What curve Radii for the shay, any idea? I think I got the area I have to work with uploaded., to scale.
Based on your space, I'd suggest a lower mainline with reverse loops at each end. Keep the curve radius as broad as you can. Then, a high line with switchbacks and such. I think the shay can handle 12"R... Michael
You will find that the Empire Builder has some limitations. If you have the choice, go with the super chief, it has much great programming and operating capability. Chris
Yes it does. You may want to look at a system that uses boosters like Digitrax or NCE. You may need at least 1 booster, if you plan to have sound. You may get away with just a command station, but the voltage drop out on the ends might be a problem. That would be a good choice. Like I said, something that allows for expansion is better if you going to build a big layout.. All the systems have limitations. MRC and Bachmann make good starter sets, but they are limited. Lenz and Zemo make really good sets, but not many poeple have them because of price or getting help. Digitrax, NCE and EasyDCC are pretty popular, with Digitrax and NCE really at the top of the heap. I have a Super Chief because I got it at a really good price and everyone I run with has Digitrax, so the throttle mix. That would be another consideration, if you plan to have people over to run, either get a set that's compatable with everyone else so they can use their own throttles or get a few extras for your set. Art
Cool, my helicopter sold on Ebay, so when I get the funds I will have the funds to order the stuff I need. Figure on the Digitrax SC Xtra Duplex 8 amp system, there are a couple web buys out there under $500 before shipping and power supply. SPEAKING of, I have a 14 volt 25 amp Radioshack Power supply. Cannot figure out if it is useable for the Digitrax. I guess call them>??? Will also place my order for Fast Tracks track building jigs. Do not completely understand the low/high track plan idea. At least I understand the reversing loops. I think I saw some deal for like $75 at Digitrax that will do multiple reversing loops. Later can get another booster and whole system will auto reverse when needed. Obviously I do not grasp the size things need to be in relation to my scale on my layout. I am able to get some general building sizes from looking on the web. Who among my responders is retired and can accept a daytime phone call, my dime? I need a talk to, you know, as you talk ideas flash and new questions come up. Think I really need help designing layout due to my lack of knowledge. I can see the mountains and canyons and such, just cannot visualize the trackage or vertical. Gotta have bridges. I have not found a way to PM folks here, am I missing a link? So, if you are amenable to yaking, drop me an email to (jack(dot)martin28(at)comcast(dot)net) with your daytime number. I am not a night person. Thanks Jack
Jack, the high/low line idea is something like this: Gorre and Daphetid Railroad - The Slides - s1_012_levels_unk59 There are 4 levels of track in that view. Yet, if you follow them around, they all lead back to the same yards. Here's an earlier incarnation of that railroad: Gorre and Daphetid Railroad - Planning and Construction - trackplan Here it is taking shape: Gorre and Daphetid Railroad - Planning and Construction - beginings Note that there is a continuous running loop, with a high line that takes off and climbs to a town in the back. (not visible in the last photo, look here) These links are to the most famous model railroad of all time, John Allen's Gorre & Daphited. If you haven't seen it before, here's another gallery for inspiration: Gorre and Daphetid Railroad - The Slides - Set_02 I'm not retired, as I'm currently interviewing for my first job out of grad school. You can PM people by clicking on their avatar, then clicking the send message option below their avatar on the wall screen. Michael
Hope this is the right discussion for this..... I am starting my first N scale layout, and have started an elevator to load the cars (everything motorized), and am now working on the rotary dumper. The dumper will be fully operational (already got it turning) but heres where I need some advice. This unit will be USELESS to me if I cant uncouple the cars via control board. I need some links to where I can purchase the needed trucks and electric magnets to get this all set up. I have done a fair amount of research and want something that works. Thanks guys!
Hi FireAce, Perhaps you would be better to use the N Scale forum at this site? Otherwise I'm not familiar with any working couplers for N scale. The smallest working couplers I know of are Kadees and they only go down to HOn3 scale - and even those are big for that scale.
I second Dan; the N-scale forum would be the place to search for advice. However, there are smaller functioning couplers than the Kadee HOn3 ones that Dan mentioned. Among others, Micro-Trains makes them; those used to be made by the same company as the Kadees before there was a split into MT and KD. In fact, MT uses the N couplers on their HOn3 releases.
