How do I install DCC on my layout? How do I install DCC into a non-DCC ready train? How do I use dcc to control a turnout? how to I upgrade to DCC? And Is dcc the right move price wise and proto-typically? If any one can provide me the answers to these questions of mine, I would appreciate it, thank you. Andrew
I think the best answer to your questions is to send you over to Tony's Train Exchange DCC Primer. A great many of us started out learning about DCC from there.
Easy questions, not-so-easy answers. The answers to all your questions is: "It depends". First, what scale trains do you have? Second, how large is your layout, and how many trains are you going to run at once? Third, what kind of locomotives are you wanting to put DCC in that are not DCC ready? Fourth, what type turnouts do you have, and what kind of switch machines do you have? Fifth, it depends on how your layout is currently wired, and what type of DCC system you are going to be using. Sixth, it depends on what you want to accomplish by converting to DCC.
MY layout My layout is using code 100 and code 83 HO scale track. I have started expand off of a 4x8 sheet of plywood and plan to make it a 6x8 foot layout. I currently have 1 code 100 manual lefthand turnout and several feet of code 100 flex track. When I am done I plan to have at least 7 turnouts all remotely controlled by either a wired switch or by a DCC controller. I am planning to build a large home-made arched girder bridge and have 2 large mountains at either end of it. I plan to use a combination of soft wood and lightweight metal to make to bridge(s). I also have a tunnel going through the one mountain that I am currently building, and have yet to go to work on the other mountain. I will try to post some pictures of what I am doing, tomorrow. Also if you are interested I will provide a link to my youtube page where I have some videos that I have made on what I am trying to do. http://www.youtube.com/user/Robotechnology101 Thank you for the info. Andrew
As Terry says, "It depends". However, it sounds like you already have a DC set up, so the most basic 'install/upgrade' is to take your DC locos off, disconnect the DC controller, connect the DCC command station in place of the DC unit, turn all the block switches on (or to the controller that was replaced), place one or more DCC locos on the layout and enjoy learning to operate like the real thing Regarding your second question there are actually three states you need to understand: DCC fitted, DCC ready, The Rest. Fitted is obvious - place on track and go. 'Ready' is a DC loco which (usually) has a socket into which a decoder can be plugged, so you don't need to do any wiring. Unfortunately this doesn't guarantee there will be space for the decoder you choose, so take advice on the particular engine from the guys here on TB. Anything else is a DC loco which will require some degree of work to install a decoder in - usually cutting/disconnecting wires and reconnecting to suit the decoder. Quite a lot of engines have clipped in circuit boards for the lights, and often there is a 'drop-in' decoder which replaces the light board to make the loco DCC. I don't know if these are classed as DCC Ready or The Rest ... Personally I see no point in controlling turnouts via DCC unless you are aiming for some sort of automation. Unless you have a particular reason to work them via DCC I'd keep them on a standard manual/pushbutton/switch control for now at least. Is it the right move? Well, the hobby is moving to it big time, so yes. It's going to cost you more in equipment, so no. It should be easier to wire up, so yes. But some turnouts may need modifying to improve operation, so no. You certainly gain more prototypical operation, so yes. As above, cornfield meets become easy to arrange, so no I'd say go for it ...
MY pics of what I have done on my HO scale layout please tell me what it is that I need to do with my first mountain in order to have a arch bridge crossing a gorge on my layout, based on the pictures that i have uploaded. Thank you Andrew
no offence, but you have some kinks in your track you might want to fix. all those questions depend. different engines and different manufactures along with time produced all make different decoder requirements. as for wiring the layout, you just solder two wires to each of the rails even few feet or so.
Watch the kinked track! Trust your eyes to let you know. If you are in doubt, duck down to eye level at one end and run your view up the length of track...you'll see the kink. Equally important, do not run your tracks within 3" of the edge of your table or bench. Things sometimes derail (at kinks, for example...) and will sometimes fall over. When they fall, if moving at speed, they may slide and tumble. The net result could be a broken engine lying in pieces on the floor.
Another quick "avoid this if possible" caution: I see in one of the photos you have a reverse curve (just before the 45 degree crossing). This will end up a derailment headache for you. Put some kind of straight track between the curved sections so the wheels/trucks have a chance to unwind from the first curve, before throwing them into a second one going in the opposite direction. Even a half-length straight section will help.
DCC a Good Bet DC is cheaper than DCC, but only if you are running one or two trains at a time. The moment you want 2 or more, and want independent control of the trains, its all about DCC from a cost-benefit standpoint. Allow $300 to make an entry. Wiring basically the same as DC; 2 wires, 2 rails. See if this link helps any: Many new model train enthusiasts Enjoy!
