I recently acquired a supposedly new, old stock n scale KATO F7A 176-215 and when I ran it, it seemed a bit rough. Can anyone direct me to a site which explains how to remove the shell and what has to be lubricated and recommended oil?
I haven't found anything on removing the shell on those, but it's a PITA. I broke the rear coupler on my brand new PA1 trying to get the shell off, then put a decoder in and put the shell back on.. a couple days later I had to remove the shell again, this time I broke the window (clear plastic) inside the shell which is what actually catches the "hooks" on the frame to hold the chassis on. So all I can say is be VERY careful!
IME, lubricating a Kato loco probably won't do much good for "rough" running, but if you'd like to try, my recommendation for lube is Labelle 108. I usually only use this on bearing blocks.
Atlas & Kato Trucks Not exactly what your after,but will give you an idea for the trucks at least. The shell,well I remember another site that I'm searching for you now.......
IIRC, the 1st thing to remove is the front coupler, then the shell can be spread and the mechanism separated. I've done several F-3's, F-7's, and PAs lately. There is a black clip that holds the front coupler in place that has to come out 1st. Unless you're using Micro Trains Couplers, then the coupler trip pin has to come out before the "coupler clip". This coupler clip also holds the flat Kato centering spring. It's kind of tricky gettin' the clip out. You have to release the tabs on the sides to get it to release. I use a small screwdriver to release the tabs on the coupler clip. You've got to be careful or you will break the coupler clip or the shell.
After removing the Kato F unit front coupler clip, the the 'toothpick' technique is the best way to remove the shell on any of the Kato F / E / PAs etc. This technique is where you insert four toothpicks, two on each side, carefully, between the frame and the shell, which spreads the shell just enough so that you can remove the shell. Of course, put the toothpicks at the places where the little tabs are that interlock between the shell and the frame. Somewhere I have photos of this technique (as well as the associated locations of where these internlocking points are, for the Kato F, E, and PA). If folks are interested, post back here, and I'll go and dig them out and post those pictures here. Hope this helps.
John's way is the easiest and works for most locos. On some, you have to remove one or both couplers before removing the shell. I have never broken anything using this method.
OK, here's the shots. Go here to see them all: kato_n_scale_unimate_install Photo Gallery by ATSF_Arizona John Sing at pbase.com And here's a couple of samples: Remember that you have to remove the front coupler clip and coupler first, before trying to remove the shell. In the above album, I've also included the locations of the tabs for the Kato E8/E9 and the Kato PA1, as well as the tabs on the DCC-ready F unit mechanism. Hope this helps!
Here's a shot showing the plastic glass window inserts, and the tabs on them, those tabs lock over the tabs on the mechanism: For the Kato PA1 and the E8, these locos have only one tab on each side of the loco. You don't have to remove the front coupler on these locos when removing the shell. You use the same toothpick technique, you just only have 2 points where you need to insert: Sometime soon, I got to put all these photos into a web page. Hope this helps!
Here's two more photos, shows how the front coupler clips are on the Kato N scale F unit - you must remove this front coupler before removing the shell: Enjoy!
I read in another forum post that these older Kato locos are a bit noisier or the engine whirring is louder than the newer models and lubrication probably won't help. Even though, it is supposedly new, it is probably the reason the previous owner parted with it on Ebay. I have a bunch of new old stock Life Like F7's and GP 38's with spring drive and they are super quiet. Can't hear them at all. Mind you, I have had one or two that were noisy but at those prices who can complain. I heard and read so much about the Kato engines I thought I would try one out but needed the rapido couplers which came on the older stock, but perhaps if I buy a newer one and convert the couplers (if possible) and see how they run.
I just picked up an Atlas GP35 that was built in 1992. It supposedly has a Kato drive in it and it runs GREAT, but it also is much louder than my other Atlas and Kato loco's that are built 2006 or newer. I shrug off the loud sound it makes since I'd rather it run great loud than lousy and quiet. Sure enough if I tried to get into it to quiet it down, I'm mess something up and make it start jumping frogs or not picking up, etc...
