I want to do some weathering and graffiti on my rolling stock. I have the weathering powders and Blair Line Graffiti decals. My question is do you put on the decals then weather or vice versa?
I'd think you'd put the decals on first and then weather over the entire car. Just sounds logical otherwise the decal would look shiny.
If the graffiti is "fresh" then it would show shinier than surrounding areas. You'd likely have troubles with the decals, when applying to chalked areas, unless you can seal that coating first. Boxcab E50
My instant thought was like Bill, but on reflection I think maybe not. Without trying to psychoanalyse graffiti artists I'd think that if possible they'd decorate clean cars rather than dirty (if only because the paint would stick better), so that would suggest you apply the graffiti decals before, or after some fairly light, weathering. Then weather more if required.
The Blair Line instructions recommend applying their decals to a glossy surface. I'll a light weatheing after the decals are applied as you suggested. Thanks
Weathering chalk is, well, just chalk. Although you can't see the grains with the naked eye, I can't imagine good decal adhesion after weathering. If you use Micro-Set or Micro Sol, each is a liquid and will be sure to do something to the chalk granules. If neither, water for the decal sure will. You can get whatever effect you want by weathering very carefully with chalk after application of the decal.
Well, this really depends. I would suggest looking at prototype photos to get a good feel for how it works in real life. If you wish to model a subject that is in bad shape or very dirty which has fresh graffiti on it, then you symply weather the car as you wish, seal it with gloss coat. Apply your graffiti decals per the normal decal best practices, then apply dull coat to seal everything in.
I do a combo of both weather with chalk prior to applying the Graffiti, and then seal with Dullcoat then apply the Graffiti with Micro-Set and seal again with some additional Dullcoat over all. This sets both and yet doesn't totally hide my Graffiti nor does it make the Graffiti look shiny & new.
Do like the prototype: Weathering goes on first, followed by graffiti, followed by additional weathering (depending on how old it is, the graffiti gets weathered too). I would recommend using Dullcote to seal each layer. Most graffiti artists do not do pieces on a shiny new car. In most cases, the more dirtier/faded the car is, the more attractive a canvas for graffiti it becomes for them. If you've noticed, Amtrak equipment does not get graffiti'd, mainly because they are well-maintained and washed often. I understand MTL has some "Graffiti series" cars, which look very weird since the car's paint scheme is sparkling new - is is not realistic! As for decals on a glossy surface, I've found out I never really needed that. I can place them on a slightly textured surface -- just make sure there's a generous application of Micro-Sol before you lay the decal. Then after placing it, use the tip of a tissue or paper towel to soak up the excess fluid. Then apply more Micro-Sol.
Thank you for your suggestions and help. Here are a few pics of the graffiti and weathering I did while weathering out the snow storm yesterday.
I believe those decals are mounted too high. The flat bottom of the decals is meant to match the bottom edge of the car... because most graffiti "artists" aren't tall enough to do their work any higher than that.
Thank you for the heads up. Next time I will get even with the bottom of the car. Thank you for taking the time to look at my work.
Those look great to me., So the artists were 6'4" .. never thought of that but it matters precious little to me. Nice job!
I just took a measurement and it is about 10 N Scale feet from the ground to the top of the graffiti. I never gave any thought when putting the decals on. That what I like about this site I learn something everyday.
