Just out of interest, are you guys talking about the "new" Athearn F59PH1 release that is supposed to be much slower, more DCC friendly and will come with DCC/Tsunami or, as it seems more likely, is this the original release version? I'm not sure the new ones are out yet.
No, i had a real difficult time even finding my Metrolink. I don't remember who I bought mine from, but it was someone who sent me a PM after i mentioned that i wanted one. I would like to have another one. biggrin:
Nice work , it's sometimes discouraging to do and installation like that but once it's done it's also very rewarding ! Now you will be able to slow down this fast loco putting new value for CV006 ( mid speed ) and CV005 ( top speed ) , you will find this loco a lot better if you do that . While at it I always add momentum for start up and braking , I had some friends operating during the week end and they were impressed how these CV changes change a loco so much . CV003 and CV004 are for startup and braking I always put a value of 2 to both CV's , you could go to 3 for a real big loco and 1 for a switcher . Once you will try it , you will want to modify all your locos ! A passenger loco like that should have a top speed of 100 smph or 7.5 sec. for 8 actual feet on your layout . By playing with the value on CV005 ( top speed ) you will find the right value . In theory you could divide the result by 2 for the value of the CV006 ( mid speed ) , you should do the same actual 8 linear feet on you layout in 15 seconds if you put your hand held controller ( or other controller ) at mid point . If not then change the value up or down depending of the result .
Thanks Louis, I'll give that a try. Actually I was thinking about how I was going to do this today at work, so this is perfect timing.:tb-biggrin:
I have a NCE Power Cab, but right now I’m looking into selling it and buying a Zephyr because its just not going to work for my layout.
As far as I can tell in this thread and from what I remember from electronics school the brass pick-up from the track and the motor brush are electrically the same. The motor brush is receiving it's signal from the track pick-up lug and therefore it receives the DCC signal from that same tab since the signal comes through the track. Therefore you should be able to solder it to the pick-up tab and it would work. In fact I have an old style Kato GP-38 that I installed a decoder in several years ago and it's soldered directly to the track pick up strips, it works flawlessly.
The Digitrax instructions show it soldered to the tab under the motor brush in the photo. I did solder to the same pick-up tab only I did it under the frame instead of the tab under the motor brush. I did this because I wanted to be able to remove the motor without having to unsolder the tab. You can’t see it very well here but it’s all one piece. Anyway it runs great and I’m happy with it. I would do it again if I had another one.
