Total Newbie Getting Started on First Layout

Hi folks. I'm getting started on my first non-train-set layout (24"x48" - maybe slightly larger) and I have a couple of newbie questions that would really help.

1. I think I'm leaning toward Atlas C80 track rather than Unitrack because I think it looks better and I like being able to use flex-track for curves etc. Am I choosing wisely?

2. Assuming that I do go with the Atlas track, I already have the pink foam base ready. Will standard track nails hold the track in place or do I need to glue it to the roadbed? Maybe I should use plywood for the base and use the foam for scenery?

Sorry for the newbie questions but I just want to get started in the right direction.:tb-wacky: I've already learned tons from this site. Thanks!!

HD:tb-nerd:

 

Welcome to TrainBoard!

Atlas Code80 flex is a great product for beginning in flex track. If you want even better realism, I'd recommend Code55 flex. It's not that much different to work with than the C80, but may require an extra step of sanding down the inside spike heads, or swapping out any large flanged wheelsets (the Micro Trains "Pizza Cutters" will bump the spikes).

For me, that issue was easily correctable, and I'm glad I went with C55.


For fixing the track to the layout, will you be laying cork or foam roadbed on top of the pink foam? My fathers layout back home has pink foam, cork roadbed and track nails holding the C80 flex in place. It has lasted over 10 years, so I say you're good if you take that route. If you go with foam roadbed, I might add glue just because the foam is not as dense as cork and may allow track nails to wiggle free.

In either case, if you choose to ballast the track, you wouldn't have to use glue to secure the track since you'll ultimately be using the glue on the ballast in the next step.

 

Flex track is fine, Although as a beginner I had a few problems with it. Usually joining pieces together on curves, its difficult to make a smooth joint that is also in guage....Mike

 

Your Atlas C80 flex is a fine choice, for 1st timers and old hands ... as many have said!

But if you foresee a long term commitment, sometime forward you may want to choose track mainly based upon appearance ... if so, take a look at MicroEngineering C55/C40, Peco C55, Atlas C55, or even "hand-laid" technology ...

If you want something straightforward to install that looks "pretty good," take at look at the fixed and semifinished piece tracks made by several mfrs ...

In my case as a 1st timer, I chose Peco 55 and am happy, but the investment in Peco grew very quickly and am now committed ...

Its always your choice and there are several good paths ... you got to know where your at and where going ...

:tb-biggrin:

 

Atlas C80 is fine. I use it exclusively. Lays easy and once ballasted...looks damn good...JMO. Welcome to TB and never fear asking questions...lots of brainiacs here willing to share...LOL.

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Thanks for the replies!

I was probably going to go with the foam from Woodland Scenics as I've read that it is more quiet and a little easier to work with than cork.

There are a couple of good shops near me and I'm going to go this weekend and have a look at what they have for track and pick their brains a bit as well.

Thanks again! :tb-wink:

 

Thanks for the replies. I was planning on using the foam roadbed from Woodland Scenics, but I haven't made up my mind yet. There are a couple of excellent shops near me that I'll be visiting this weekend to look at track and pick some brains.

Thanks again! :tb-cool:

**Sorry for the double post. The inter-webs strikes again**

 

Code 80 versus code 55

As others have pointed out, you can achieve satisfactory results with either approach, and with either one you can also make use of sectional track if that is easier for you to manage. In the layout I'm building, I used cork roadbed over foam board. I would recommend using flexible roadbed, as others have sugested, because the rack nails stick pretty well in that, making the straights stay traight and the curves hold their alignment. I toyed with just laying the track on the foam, but found track nails wouldn't hold reliably. If you ballast the track using glue, you can be assured the track will stay put.

I would avoid using Unitrack, True Track, or E-Z Track because each one forces you to stay with one manufacturer and you are limited in the choices available to you, since there's no such thing as flextrack in those approaches.

Most of all, do what you are comfortable with, knowing no good model railroad is ever complete, and many have been rebuilt numerous times.

Welcome to this great hobby!:tb-biggrin:

Best regards,
Don

 

Welcome to TB.

If you can design a track plan you like using Unitrack I'd seriously consider going with it. Members here have done some amazing work to make it look great and it's solid functionally.

However if you can't make a plan work with the selection of radii go flex. I'd recommend buying a piece of C80 and C55 to compare before making a decision. With a small layout I assume your collection of equipment is on the small size as well and it will be easier to replace wheelsets if need be to work with C55. Unless the layout will travel a lot or if its an area with extreme temperatures I'm not sure C80 has many advantages.

Post your track plan in that forum subgroup to get some good feedback before you glue anything down

 

Hi Herschel,

Welcome to Trainboard

I have both the foam and cork roadbed on my layout. For me they were about the same work and I do not notice any difference in the noise level. You can't go wrong with either.

Gary

 

I used the 25' rolled roadbed from WS. I also used the cheap Duro spray adhesive from KMart and sprayed a light coat over my trackbed markings...applied the foam...and it sticks just fine...never has moved. I also use a small glue gun with just a small squirt of glue under the edge of the ties every 6 inches or so as I lay flextrack. I have a somewhat heavy car body repair tool I lay on the track after glueing...and slide it along as I go. The weight plus...it being steel...helps set and cool the hot glue. Once you get the hang of it...it goes pretty quick...JMO :tb-wink:

 

Welcome.

Code 80 is fine if that is your choice. If this is your first layout, I would consider Unitrack since either it fits one piece into another or it won't. You will have no kinks, no misalignments, just a smooth run.

Nails- No need. Glue works just fine. I also found, very early on, that there is a tendency to use the nails on plywood to make the track fit together and you will almost certainly be making this mistake. Use water based glue that can be rewet and then moved after drying.

Make sure each piece of track fits perfectly into the next piece. When you start forcing curves or the like, you will wind up with derailments. If you are 1/8" off coming into a turnout, you are going to be really sorry and will eventually learn that you can't force anything to fit. If you wind up with a bad fit, rip up and start the section over again. You will be happier for it in the long run.

Flextrack- Great idea, BUT- if you are using it to "make it fit" be careful. It may not, it should not be forced and be careful of making a curve too tight for the trains you wish to operate. You might be better off using the sectional track offered by Atlas in Code 80. With Flextrack, you will also need absolutely perfect cutting of the ends, perfect filing down of the cut AND most probably, a lot of soldering, certainly more than if you stayed with the sectionals.

Try not to get discouraged. You will make mistakes. To lessen the same, ask here first. There are two ways to learn lessons, the easy way and the hard way. Go the route of the easy way and ask before you do, not afterwards. Everyone, whether a newbie or someone who has been at this since Lionel was the only game in town, makes mistakes.

 

I would not use Code 55 track as a first time layout, especially if you are having a fair number of switches.

If you are just starting out, I would highly recommend build a small layout (like 2' X 4') using Kato Unitrack. Functionally, the stuff is bulletproof and you will be so happy with the way trains run plus you don't have to worry about changing any wheels out and virtually every engine and piece of rolling stock ever made will run on it. Using Unitrack on a small layout will allow you to try different track configurations before having to nail or glue anything down plus it will allow you to concentrate on scenery, etc. You can paint the rail and ballast Unitrack to make it look very presentable. Others will argue that Unitrack costs too much, but with a small layout, the difference in price is negligible. The Unitrack switches are awesome and actually cost less than a Code 55 switch with either a groundthrow or Tortoise machine.

I have a 3.5' X 6' layout that was built by a professional using Code 55 track that looks stunning, but frankly I like the way trains run on a temporary Unitrack setup better. I am going to build the Salt Lake layout that Model Railroader featured in six issues earlier this year using Unitrack.

These are just my opinions and nothing else.

 

Unitrack is easier...BUT...nowhere near U.S. prototypical looking. The track is made for the Japanese market. Tie spacing is horrendous...JMO.

Read all you can on all track...and make an informative decision ;-)

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IMO The only way you'll notice the difference between Unitracks tie spacing and say atlas tie spacing is in a side by side comparision . Once you add scenery to your layout it all kind of blends together.....Again JMO....Mike

 

I agree with Mike. I've used flex track in the past and used Unitrack on my last layout and will use Unitrack on the next layout. I won't ever use flex again. On it's own Unitrack doesn't look like US track, the tie spacing is wrong. But, on a layout with scenery it's not very noticeable. The track just blends into the scenery and the trains star in the show.

 

SOooooooooooooo..this would then hold true of C55 vs C80. There would be little or no visual difference once it is all sceniced. Hence...there should be no more discussions/debates about which is better or looks better C55 or C80...kewl...:tb-cool:JMO :tb-wink:

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For Unitrack vs. Atlas C80, yes.

However Unitrack vs. Atlas Code55 has a very noticeable difference from several feet away.

The difference is not only in rail height (and not so much in rail height) as it is in tie spacing. A 9 3/4" bit of C55, which has more prototypical tie spacing has 74 ties where as the same length of Unitrack only has 51 ties. If better looks are a deciding factor, C55 is the clear winner.

I'm the complete opposite. I've always used flex, then I moved away from home and began building layouts with Unitrack. I have now moved back to C55 flex because of it's far superior visual qualities and I dont plan to ever go back to Unitrack. I suppose the key difference here is looks. If looks are not important, than track is track is track, it really does not matter what brand you chose (except that EZ Track, which should always, ALWAYS, remain on the hobby shop's shelf ).

And my opinion on adding scenery to cover the large tie spacing is that it does not work. It certainly wont look bad in any way, but there is still a definite noticeable difference from several feet away.

No. Sorry George. Read above, about tie spacing. Atlas C80's tie spacing is closer to that of Unitrack than it is of C55. Again, if looks aren't important, than track is track. But once you see how much better C55 looks, it's like comparing rapido to knuckle couplers.

 

GEeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzzz Mark...call back the black helicopters...I promise to be good....lol

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