Can anyone help with recommending a track cleaner for a DCC layout. What is good a pull along or powered? Thanks Ron
Boy, that's a tough one. I own all of the cleaning cars put out by Aztech, which are high quality. The problem is that there's dirt/debris and then there is oxidation, which may or may not fall in the same "camp". I think many types of cleaning cars can get off the debris. And of course the Atlas/Tomix car cleaner can also vacuum, which is a key component. Myself, I just haul my hand-held Oreck around the room and vacuum the track off in no time. As far as oxidation goes, I haven't found any car that will take off the oxidation and keep it off. If you have a larger layout, you'll blacken-up the roller on an Aztech car in no time... Or turn a Bright-Boy black to the point that it's useless unless you sand off the edge. And then you check the track the next day and what do you get? Black from oxidation. Now it's said that this oxidation will conduct power, and it appears that it does. I mean my trains will run when the track is oxidized. The problem is that once the wheels on the loco's get covered in black from oxidation then the hesitation begins. One thing that I've done is use Labelle Track Conditioner, which may be like Clipper Oil or No Ox. You clean the track with this oil (and it does take off a lot of black) but don't totally wipe off all the Track Conditioner. I think it was Joe Fugate who called this "wet track". I can tell you that after using the Labelle product, I do not have the issues with oxidation building up on the treads of the locomotives like it did before when I only cleaned the track using dry methods. Con-Cor's Labelle Lubes & Accessories Page
Once I put NO-OX ID on my layout, I have NEVER had a problem with the track. It has been over a year and I've never even wiped it off. I vacuum every once in a while and after some scenery work. That's it, no more cleaner cars, alcohol, and bright bars for me.
The cheapest and easiest method is to just run your trains over the whole layout every day. Each region is different. Some areas it is dust. Some rapid oxidation. When I lived in Chicago I had few problems with the track. Around Atlanta where I am currently if I don't run the trains every day I have to run a cleaning car. Usually just a Centerline with GooGone or alcohol. If it sits foe a week out come the rubbing cars, The Aztec abrasive roller, The Model Power slider. If left for a month out comes the Tomix cleaner. Of all of these the best and most fun is run your trains.
I'm now using CRC 2-26 (recommended by Joe Fugate) and it's brilliant. All the locos that used to sputter along now run smooth as silk. First clean the track (dry), then spray some CRC on a piece of cork and rub the cork along the track. You don't have to do every inch, just patches here and there, as it gets spread by the wheels. It's the best thing I've ever done for my layout. Tony
I have used the No-Ox with great sucess. It is great to useon the points of switches also. No more having to clean points to get the loco to move through the switch. I really like how easy it is to use, and how little you have to put on. Do read the direction before you use it.
As Fred Hickory said it is sold be Walthers. That is where I ordered mine from. I live in a hot dusty summer climate and damp winters with out a climate controlled train room. I have had to do gleaming, then No-Ox-ID, plus Aztec cleaning cars to keep the main line clean. On yards and siding I use 70% alcohol on a cloth wrapped around a wood block. This gives my about a week or two of good running. I do clean the engine wheels about once a week or as needed. Also running 2 engines mu'ed for mainline and yard duty helps with moving over any dirty patches I may have missed. Until I did all this operation was a pain and I was about to give up on model railroading. Now it is fun again. I can just turn on the Digitrax system and run trains.
