Lesferge and Westfallen: NOW we're talking! Nice job with the smaller tender...brings out the tenwheeler's beautiful proportions. I'm still waiting for my tender shells from MP. Regards, Otto
Found this photo on C&O historical society website. A tenwheeler with a short vandy tender like the one on the model power steamers. At least close enough for me. That is an engine from the C.C. & L. later to become the C&O of Indiana. It ran by our farm so now I have an excuse to buy a ten wheeler! Update: I made a boo boo. THats a 2-8-0, not a 4-6-0. Im sad now...
I got my second one last week-end and it's just about perfect (pilot truck upside right, too!) No modifications except a paint job. When I can figure out the wiring (I'm DC), I will change tenders on the other one, either to a Bachmann "shorty" or adapt a slopeback with MP shell. I noted with interest, the tender Bachmann used is not too unlike some used by the Maine Central so I harbor no guilt letting this one stay attached! LOL
Converting the 4-6-0 to DC is simple if you are willing to sacrifice the headlight. All you need to do is clip off the two motor leads near the circuit board in the tender so they are long enough to reach the front of the mechanism where the headlight is attached. Remove the headlight and attach the motor wires to its mounting lugs, connecting the orange wire to the right (engineers) side of the frame. You will need to use small washers or make small lugs to fasten the wires, as the screws do not go all the way into the lugs on the frame.
I sacrificed my headlight on accident not knowing better, but if you are not concerned about the headlight, the easy way to do it is to connect the motor leads to the engine frame with tape. The shell with pressure keeps it firm. Quick and easy and all you have to do is turn and twist to change tenders out. Just remember the leads are crossed to the opposite frame sides.
You guys are making this much too hard. If you want to eliminate the wires to the tender and you aren't worried about the headlight, just pay attention to the markings on the wires when you remove them from the tender decoder board. They are marked, F-, M-, L -, L+, M+, RF +. Just pull them one at a time, connect F- to M- and F+ to M+. Leave the headlight wires alone unless you want so scavage the 1000 ohm resistor and the diode from the decoder board. Then just connect the L+ to the M+,RF+ connection. Connect the Diode and Resistor in series between the L- and F-/M- connection. The parts are all there to do what you need and there is room under the cab or along the spine of the loco to make the connections. I installed DCC in mine with a DN135, eliminating the factory board completely. For safety, installed the diode and resistor in the loco, along the slot in the spine of the frame. That way I could use a shorting plug in the tender and not worry about protecting the headlight. While I was at it, I replaced the headlight with a pure white headlight. It's much brighter now.
Video of No.68 breaking in today on the club's N-TRAK layout with some 'captured' Japanese equipment behind the caboose to add some load. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUc4PyxevP0
Most of them are only four wheelers but I was surprised myself, it wasn't appearing to struggle yet. Maybe we are too scared of traction tires.
The ten wheeler might be one of the best steammers out there. It creeps at a slow pace and hauls like a mule. Mine will pull at least 20 cars on my layout without slipping. Every bit as good at the 2-8-0. It is a winner.
I agree. It is a very solid engine. I'm just wondering why Bachmann chose not to market it under the Spectrum name. Giant tender aside, it seems to be of similar quality, level of detail and price-point to the 2-8-0. Are they moving away from Spectrum or just trying to upgrade the quality of the "standard" Bachmann line?
I have not tried them yet, but thinking an Atlas N 2-6-0 tender with the Bachmann 4-6-0 might be a good fit? or maybe too small. just a thought. I really like the fire train version. nice work!
I'm about to start an SP 4-6-0 (T28 or 31) using the Bachmann running gear and Model Power boiler and tender. Just got all of the parts in and now it's time to start looking at if it can actually be done...
