Hello all i like to know is thar away to get pant off plastic, im would like to repant a CN sw 1500 pwr .dont know how to get the old pant off. like some in put to this . thankyou lot.
I've taken the paint off several passenger cars by soaking them in brake fluid then scrubing with an old tooth brush. You may have to do this procedure several times with the differences in paints. Then when all the paint is gone, use dish detergent and warm water to wash off the brake fluid. Make sure you either throw the tooth brush away or store it in a safe place so no one will use it to brush their teeth.
Brake fluid does work pretty well, but be careful. It will eat certain types of softer plastics. I used it on an Athearn 36 foot stock car and it destroyed the bracing detail on the underside of the car *and* ate through whatever astir or adhesive was holding the metal weight to the floor of the car. OTOH it made short work of the three layers of paint on the (twice repainted by the original owner) Tyco HO locomotive I'm working on. As an alternative you might first try Isopropyl Alcohol. I've had great success with it lately, especially with acrylic paints. It seems to be gentler on the softer plastics.
thankyou all for the in put i will try this will keep you posted on the job as it gos a long. thank you . TwinDad what is OTOH?
Easy-Off oven cleaner works well to remove paint from plastic. Strip-A-Kit is also a product to use for removing paint from plastic. http://modelingmadness.com/scotts/accessories/sak.htm
So tell us, what method did you use to remove the paint? Here is a shot of a project i'm working on. I removed the paint with brake fluid.
I want to vote against brake fluid! I'm not a chemist, but I have been removing paint for decades, and brake fluid has ruined many of my shells (you'd think I woulda learned after 1 or 2). Clearly, there's something in some brake fluids that attacks some plastics. I have had good luck with all the hobby shop paint removers I've used, especially when patient and using a toothbrush to get old paint out of nooks and crannies. When satisfied that you've stripped the paint, soak the body in soapy water for several hours, then rinse thoroughly and blow-dry before repainting. Yes, you can test brake fluid, but I don't think it's worth the possible grief - I'd see what your LHS is selling for plastic-compatible (modeler's) paint remover. Scott
I'm sure any ladies in the household will have a comment on this [such as "don't dare try using mine!"] but I have read that NAIL VARNISH REMOVER is quite good! Regards, Pete Davies
Many brake fluids will destroy Kato shells. Two different fluids used one after the other on a tough old Atlas car destroyed it completely. So whatever you do, test it first if possible. By beeing fast I was able to save the Kato shells by rinsing them with warm water. That seemed to stop the process. I had the same problem with Chameleon paint stripper, it attacked Kato shells. I avoid stripping Kato shells.... Michael
I have had good luck with Pine-Sol, even the generic, plus it makes your layout smell mountain air fresh! I have a tupperware dish I fill with Pine-Sol and stick in the shell. Let it sit for 2 or 3 days and then go over it with a toothbrush. The paint comes right off. It does take a fair amount of rinising to get the residual Pine-Sol off, and the smell can get old, but it is not as harsh as brake fluid.
I would use extreme caution with Brake Fluid and nail polish remover. Of all the crazy chemicals I've tried to remove paint, those two destroyed shells consistently. The Brake Fluid generally works if you get it on and off quickly, but leaving it will leach chemicals out of the plastic. Even if it LOOKS ok, it will be very brittle and things like details and even ribs can break off easily. Nail polish remover will just melt the shell. Of course this isn't every model, but I no longer take the chance with either unless I absolutely cannot find an alternative. Having said that, I generally have good luck with 90+% iso alchohol OR Purple Power. Those two have solved 99% of my stripping problems with zero catastrophes thus far. I like Purple Power because it works fast...but it's VERY NASTY STUFF (as is brake fluid) so you have to wear gloves without question.
I have tried brake fluid and even Polly S paint remover. These have both ruined shells. But one product that has NEVER failed me is Chameleon. The other good thing about Chameleon is once you use it, run it through some cheese cloth and you can continue to reuse it.
For Kato shells I use 99% rubbing alcohol (or 91% if that is all I can find). It gets most of the paint off and does not attack the ABS plastic that Kato uses. I have left shells in for a couple days with no ill effects. You may need to scrub a little with a stiff nylon brush to get the paint out of deep channels and detail. Do not use a brass brush as it will scratch the plastic. I used PineSol a long time ago but could never get rid of the smell. I personally find the smell rather revolting. Brings back memories of cleaning the latrines at scout camp. Also PineSol will melt some of the plastic used in older Bachmann shells. I tried to strip an old 4-4-0 boiler and the whole thing just "went away". It also melts Plastruct gray plastic. Ask me how I know.
I've used brake fluid in the past on Athearn and Atlas shells, but now I'm a firm believer in using 91% isopropyl alcohol. It takes paint off of Lifelike, Athearn and Bachmann shells quite nicely (not to mention those P2K shells- I've stripped two SD45s and a GP7 with this stuff. Just place the shell in a container full of 91% isopropyl, wate a while, and you'll see the paint lift off- you can further remove it with a toothbrush). It also has two things going for it- it's easily obtainable (at any WalMart, and I imagine KMart as well), and it's fairly cheap. With that in mind, I stay away from brake fluid. Another substance I've used in the past was ELO (Easy Lift-Off).
I have used Pine-Sol in the past, but now use Chameleon paint stripper. It doesn't harm the plastic, has no harsh smell (not too bad anyway), and strips the paint very well. I keep it in a plastic container and just re-use it as necessary. An occasional strain and it cleans right up. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find it lately.
I use a product called "Super Clean"............it is an automotive de-greaser, available in gallon jugs at most auto parts stores. It is bio-degradable, will not harm plastic, (you can leave a shell in it for days, although 24 hrs. is usually plenty......... and if you strain the paint out of it occasionally, you can continue to use. It can be used/stored in a tupperware or plastic container. The only caution is.......DON'T put your bare hands in it!! It is a powerful degreaser, and will leach the oil right out of your skin!! Another plus, if you have a clogged/slow drain, give it a good dose of this & it will run free. Comes is a "purple people eater purple" jug. It is non-flammable & not messy to use at all. :tb-cool:
Thankyou all alot of good things to know i use 99% isoprodyl alcohol,work reel good just soak for 2hrs ,come off good ,just get a old toothbrush for the fine work. thankyou all for your help. im a happy camper
