I believe most decoders can be DC enabled by what value you put in CV 29. I think factory default has it enabled. I usually disable analog for running on NTRAK layouts because when something sorts out or causes a reset, an analog looking signal goes out on the rails and causes the locomotive to take off uncontrolled in analog mode. I have noticed this especially with Easy DCC systems.
MC - The slow speed control on my 2-6-0 is excellent. All that is required is setting CV2 to pick the minimum speed you want on speed step 1. With CV2 = 0 my 2-6-0 took over a minute to make one revolution of the drivers at speed step one. The only issue with the Bachmann decoder is it's initial setup which has CV2 up around 10. On DC the control is not as good as it is on DCC. A DZ125 runs just fine on DC unless, as Russell pointed out, you have it programmed to stop when the decoder sees a DC signal.
Just sat down awhile ago to install Z905's on this puppy. Actually, the pilot install was very easy. Remove pilot truck and coupler, slice off threaded post, and 905 fits snugly right in to place. You may want to do a LITTLE reaming to make sure coupler is not squeezed, as to bind. Have yet to unpack my coupler height gauge, but coupled to 40' MT boxcar, height was very, very good. As the tender frame is all metal, need the Dremel to remove mounting post at rear. Once that's gone, it should be a quick, easy install. Maybe I can post some pix tomorrow. Joe D
My initial impressions of it are pretty good, but..........does anyone here know how you get the tender shell off this thing???
I'm working on the NTrak Steam Handbook review of these tonight. I will post pictures and let you know if Chris doesn't pop in here first because his is already in pieces.
It's one of those "four dimples into four recesses" type deals. I just stuck a small screwdriver into the hole where the wires go and pried up to pop the shell off mine. -Mark
Yeah just pry up from the front of the tender like Mark said. I put 905's on mine as well, but I also set it back further into the pilot:
Hi all, I just received my 2-6-0 and I'm having the wobble and lack of pulling power troubles reported at the beggining of this thread. Does anybody have some pictures of the shimming that could help with these issues? thanks Ricardo R N Jorge Campinas SP BRAZIL
Being from Brazil, I'm assuming that just sending it to Bachmann is not a desireable option? In any case, the fix is a pretty easy one. First off, unscrew and remove the driver bottom plate - Next, lift the forward set of drivers out of their frame cut-outs. As for the actual shims, I just took some thin/short pieces of electrical tape and stuck them to the frame where the driver bearing blocks seat. Re-seat the drivers, put the bottom plate back on and all should be well. Good luck! -Mark
This is what I love about this web site. Kudos Mark for helping out a fellow modeler! My NYC 2-6-0 runs like the proverbial swiss watch. Great little engine!
Thanks Mark. I could end up sending back to Bachmann, but it is too much trouble, so I rather try and fix it myself. First I thought that maybe the counterbalances and/or the drive shafts could be misplaced, but they seem to be right. Then tryed to rotate the bearings one at a time to see if maybe could get them in a position where the wooble disapeared. It did decrease but the pulling problem continues, so I'll try the shims Did you put electric tape shimming all bearing blocks or only the front (traction wheels) ones? Thanks again, Ricardo
sorry to need more information but I am not up on all the terminology and details of what you have done here would you please provide more info. it will be greatly appreciated. forward bearing block pockets? the pockets the axels to drivers 1 are seated? or something else? shim? what material is shim made from and what shape to use in order to accomplish this? tia, again very appreciated! Gary L Lake Dillensnyder
The driver axles mount to the locomotive chassis inside of bearing blocks (little square brass thingies that sit in cutouts in the chassis). You can see them in this picture of a Bachmann EM-1 - On the 2-6-0, I lifted the forward pair of drivers / bearing blocks out of their cutouts and then put tiny pieces of electrical tape over the edges of said cutouts. Bachmann's factory tolerances aren't as tight as, say, Kato's, and sometimes the cutouts aren't cut quite right (too big). So, the tape eliminates some of the free space and keeps the bearing blocks (and drivers) from moving around too much (thus eliminating eccentric wobbles and whatnot). Hope that helps! Cheers, -Mark
thx Mark that is very helpful i had not taken a steam loco apart as of yet but now I know what to expect and how to fix much appreciation Gary L Lake Dillensnyder
This particular operation is relatively simple (as steam goes). Unscrew the driver bottom plate and have at it Good luck! -Mark
Just ordered a 2-6-0 and a 4-6-0. Hoping I can swap tenders on the 4-6-0. Really glad there are great people on the forum who post tweaks and fixes for minor problems! Jeff C