I think so, yes, although they're probably not for everyone. I know some people like their bricks so "in scale" that you can't even tell they're bricks anymore. For comparison's sake, here's a side-by-side with some typical Walthers Cornerstone bricks - I do think RSLaser makes the best looking N scale bricks. But if you're looking for styrene, these are pretty good (at least as compared to what Plastruct has to offer). -Mark
I am pretty sure that this is the same material I used on my Lincoln Warehouse flat. Thanks for posting the link Mark. I had contacted my eBay source (we_honest) looking for more but they were no longer selling the brick sheet. These might be the same guys using a different name. Best wishes, Dave
Hi Guys, Have a look at this site. It has a wealth of information on buildings and while it may refer to printed card building they can easily be printed out and converted to styrene from Evergreen and other manufacturers: http://www.state.il.us/hpa/ps/construct_mainstreet.htm based on the State of Illinois but I am sure there are a lot of buildings there that will suit just about anywhere in the US. Then there is this: http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/190349.aspx?PageIndex=1 Even though these are only backdrop buildings the facades can be used as a basis for the rest of the building and the signs printed to complete it. The other basis I use for my buildings considering I am in Australia and I model the PRR in Huntingdon,PA is Google Maps Street View. A great resource for looking at specific buildings. You can generally scale a building from the doors. Big doors, 8 foot high or with Skylight 10 foot high while normal doors are generally about 7 foot. You can confirm this by measuring up a set of Grandt Line doors and their windows as well. Hope this helps. I also hope you all have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Regards Al
I used a stenciling brush and stippled some acrylic modeling paste mixed with a concrete color craft paint on it, and gave it a light sanding with some 600 grit paper to knock it down a bit. Here is a link to the modeling paste. http://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-artists-acrylic-modeling-paste/ The texture is oversize in closeup, but I have always thought that having some texture was important rather than having the exact texture scale. Sort of similar to ballast size where actual size sometimes looks too small. Another idea would be to stipple the concrete paint with some small cell foam after it sets up a bit. Another reason to add texture was to cover up the pock marks I caused in the concrete frame. The is .010 styrene and the glue I used to glue it to the brick sheet caused little concave marks on the surface. If any one complains I will explain that this is how the prototype looked. Some will fall for it.... Next time I will used a spray adhesive. Best wishes, Dave
Several years ago, I delved into the scratchbuilding thing. Here are a few of those threads: http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...Resturant-Scratchbuild&highlight=Red+Roof+Inn http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?84281-More-motel-madness!&highlight=Red+Roof+Inn http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?106049-Inquiry-Modern-Building-Thread/page2 http://z11.invisionfree.com/N_Scale_Talk/index.php?showtopic=1462
There is a good book around by Al Armitage produced by Kemtron on Modeling with Styrene and there are a number of other books as well. If you go to Amazon.com you will find a number of books with articles under that heading. Regards Al
