Well, I am new to model railroading as some of you may now. I started my layout a couple months back. This past weekend, I totally reconstructed my benchwork. As you can see below, I previously had a rookie-ish heavy 2x4 frame. I built this just because I was used to building skateboard ramps and other structures with 2x4s. Anyhow, I rebuilt the layout with all ripped plywood (.703" really nice cabinet grade plywood). I feel that it came out well. IMHO, it's pretty light, clean looking, plenty sturdy and plumb all around. The legs are removable in case I need to store or move the layout. Eventually, I plan to add a drawer or angled box for the switch controls and DCC throttle. The layout to top-of-foam is low (only 38" high) so it'll fit cleanly in this little cutout area in my small town home. Right now, I have tested the track configuration and am very happy with it. DKS and Paulus both helped tremendously with the track plan. I am only using DC now for testing, but I'll be constructing the layout for DCC. I'll be wiring for a switch control panel, and feeders to nearly every piece of Unitrack. Sooo, what should my next step be? What order of operations do I follow from here? I get that this question has subjective answers. But I'm kind of at a loss right now. Since re-doing the benchwork, I am very hesitant to want to touch anything and mess it up until I know how I am going to phase the construction. For example, should I: 1 - mark/trace the track configuration 2 - add roadbed 3 - wire feeders/switches 4 - road bed/glue track 5 - landscape 6 - buildings/details 7 - etc Here is the new benchwork setup: Another shot of the new setup. This river/bay/inlet w/ eventual small fisherman's wharf will kind of be the highlight of the layout: And here is my old setup: Thanks for helping out the newb (again)! Cheers Noah
1 - mark/trace the track configuration 2 - add roadbed 3 - wire feeders/switches 4 - road bed/glue track 5 - landscape 6 - buildings/details 7 - etc 1,No need to really, I would just use a small dab of hot glue and glue each section down. ( don't glue the turnouts ) 2,No need here either. I just add a bit of ballast to the sides of the unitrack roadbed when I do the scenery. 3, I dont wire the switches. I usually cut off the wires and operate them manually . Looks like yours all close to the front edge, why make it more complicated.? I would put at least two feeders on each loop of track, and probably another set on the siding/yard lead. And since you plan on DCC, I would just wire it as all one block. 4 See my #1..LOL 5 after track is down add your hills and river. I like Sculptamold over foam. Looks like you have a good start here. .....Mike
Don- I do plan on doing that fairly soon. You think I should do it before laying track? Mike- That list I made was just an example of how it might go. Not what I had necessarily planned on doing. My Unitrack affirmations: I won't be gluing turnouts; I will dab each corner of each track piece w/ hot glue; I plan to wire feeders to almost every piece of track; wiring to the rails (not joiners); I'm using these turnout control toggles for my switch control panel: http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/751D.HTM (I need 10 of them to control 13 turnouts); I don't like flipping turnouts manually; I always knock over passing trains or something stupid like that; It's not necessary, but even when I was modeling as a kid I always wanted to be able to operate my layout with a control panel; IMHO, well done panels just look cool and it'll be fun to make; I have a lot of pesky #4 turnouts, but that's all that would fit on my 80x40" layout. I plan to do the standard fix to eliminate derailment problems. It seems to me that I'd want to trace where the track will lay on the foam. That's another thing I'm confused about... So I float track on the layout > then drill holes to drop feeders/switch wires > then glue the track down? *Note: I have no grade changes, and am unsure about whether or not I'll use an additional roadbed. Probably not. But I do plan to ballast eventually.
Yes, I'd do it as soon as possible. You will not believe how much better your layout will look. It will be easier to grasp what you want to do. I'll echo the advice that is always given - look at the OOPs cans at the big box stores. You can often find something close to the local dirt color. Buy a big can. Remember, you can always put another coat over something that isn't quite what you want. I mock up features with cheap craft paint from AC Moore or Michaels. If it doesn't come out right - well there's lots of latex to put over it. I still owe you some pictures - took them just have to get them on the computer and written up. My modelling time is often measured in seconds at a time. Hang on, they're coming. Don
Noah, I would say that your sequence is pretty much right 1 - mark/trace the track configuration - Depending upon the roadbed, you will either need the track centerline or you will need to also mark the outer edges fo the roadbed. I used N scale cork and thus just marked the centerlines. 2 - add roadbed - If you paint the foam first I am not sure how well the glue will hold the roadbed down 3 - wire feeders/switches 4 - road bed/glue track 5 - landscape - this and #6 are probably intermingled. 6 - buildings/details 7 - etc Just have fun !
Thanks guys! Don, no worries ;-) Paul, I'm still unsure if I'd going to use an additional roadbed with my Unitrack. I'm not convinced of how necessary it is, considering Unitrack already has the plastic roadbed. So it sounds like I've got a lot of soldering to get to! I still only have my little Weller 25w. I was wanting to purchase a Hako adjustable temp solder station, like this: Do you guys think it's worth me investing $100 into a good solder station like this? Or will I be able to do fine with the cheap Weller pencil iron?
In my original message, it appears that me moving the images within albums of my Photobucket account causing their URLs to change (stupid). So here they are again:
Noah, I forgot you were using Unitrack. I would still be interested if anyone else has a concern about painting the foam prior to gluing the Unitrack down.
Perhaps I could use painter's tape to completely cover the track and go a few millimeters onto the foam (area I would ballast anyways), and then paint? This would give the majority of the layout the desired landscape base color, and also eliminate the concern for track not sticking well to the painted surface.
Before I forget - something I try to tell all newer rails - take the 40 or 50% off coupon to A.C. Moore or Michaels and buy a GALLON of white glue. Believe me, you'll use it and may as well save the money. I usually have a smaller container and keep re-filling it. I also keep about a quart mixed up 50/50 with water in an orange juice bottle - always ready for scenery. Just give it a shake and go. I keep Matte medium mixed 1 to 5 also, but some people don't like to use it. I shake it good when I mix it, and let it set. When I use it, I pour off the top and leave what settles. That prevents the dreaded white specks. Stock up on 91% alcohol - the various pharmacy brands are usually a value. While you're there, get some 70 % for scenery - great wetting agent. The 40 and 50% coupons are great for stocking up on things you know you're going to need. Why not grab a bag of Scultamold? Also look for the 3 for 1 craft paints. Grab a handfull of colors - they go a long way and if treated right, last a long time. I keep thinking I should write a book on how to be a cheapskate modeller.
You will not regret getting a good soldering station (but shop around, you can find that model for about $80). The problem is that paint does not adhere to foam as well as glue does, so by gluing to the paint you risk things coming off quite easily.
Don- I'm right there with ya buddy. I go to Michael's once a week with my 50% coupon (my mom actually taught me this trick when buying flower vases for my wedding). Last week I bought a 17x30" Self healing mat at half off, I bought some acrylic paint kits, a nice hobby knife set. Always use the half off coupons for the bigger ticket items you need to buy (typically around $15+). They even have a few Woodland Scenics items there like a few trees, and plaster cloth. Couple questions for ya: What is a matte medium and what is it used for? What is the 91 & 70% alcohol used for? Where would I typically use a wetting agent? As far as acrylic paints, what colors/brands/types should I always have on hand? What brushes? What quality do you spring for? ...back to someone's earlier question, there's no problem with gluing track down to an extruded foam surface that has been painted?
Matte medium is a clear, flat acrylic paint. Normally used to thin acrylic paints for painting (as in an artist painting on a canvas) or sealing, in modeling it's often used as a bonding agent for ballast, talus or other loose terrain materials, when thinned 50-50 with water. For myself, I much prefer using just plain white glue mixed 50-50 with water instead. Matte medium has a tendency to form globs of whitish material when it dries. White glue does not have this problem; plus, white glue is much cheaper (and it's one less thing to buy). 91% alcohol is most often used as a cleaning agent or paint stripper. This is really something you may not need; the 70% is adequate for most typical modeling applications. 70% alcohol (or "rubbing alcohol") is most often used as a wetting agent. It is sprayed or dribbled onto loose ballast, talus or other granular material before applying the bonding agent (thinned glue) in order to make the glue spread evenly, and prevent the ballast from clumping up.
David- That's what I'm seeing. Actually my local Fry's Electronics has the digital one for $89.99 right now. Perhaps I should just spring for that? Also, what do you think about the outer part of the inlet now that I've built it? Any thoughts on the small wharf area I plan to build there? To have enough room for the buildings and not affect the track above, I was thinking of doing a retaining wall of weathered creosote beams w/ weeds springing out of the seams. Either that, or a rocky wall, with similar amounts of salty weathering and weeds. Overall, I'm happy with your suggestion that I bring the inlet around the bridge like that
I have this soldering station: http://www.circuitspecialists.com/bk2000-soldering-station.html It is less than $50 and of very good quality. It got me thru three full recaps of audio equipment and countless other soldering jobs. Haven't yet had to change the heating element or the tip. Disclaimer: I do not work for the company that makes or sells those soldering stations. I am just a happy customer.
David you are right about the adhesion on the painted foam, but I like that it is easer to readjust track after I glue it. I have never had a problem with track coming up, although I am a newbie to the hobby about 2 years or so. I guess it's my personal preference. Your abilities and knowledge is way beyond me!!
Noah, As I said, YMMV. I find uses for all the items I listed. I have vast respect for David, in fact, he's the one I was refering to in some people don't like matte medium. His results are wonderful with just white glue. Woodland Scenics cement is just matte medium cut with water the ratio is about 1 part matte to 5 parts water and let it settle. White glue is the universal, but will sometimes leave a shine. If that happens, a little MM over it will cure it. The 5 to 1 mix is also good for thinning the craft paints. A drop or two works better than water and seems to add a bit of "tooth" to it. Some of what I was telling you to do with the Unitrack will need the 91% alc. The 70 won't touch it. It will also clean most paints off a brush - makes them last longer. Brushes - start with one of the variety packs. You'll want to spring for some better small, spot type brushes when you start detailing buildings, but the pack will give you an idea of what type you like. Not all brushes are comfortable to hold. If you have some paint sets, you may already have some variety of colors, when you see the sales, get greens and browns. You can never have enough variation on those colors. I told you in past posts, get a GOOD soldering tool. Price is not the determining factor more expensive is not always better. You want one that feels good in your hand and the handle does not get hot, even when in the stand for a while. I'm partial to Weller tools. I bought a Weller soldering station when I changed jobs in 83, and have used the heck out of it. Finally replaced the tip - remember, I told you to keep it clean and it will last. There are a lot of talented people and a lot of good advice here, you'll have to decide which works for you, but above all, have fun.
Nearly forgot. I've never had a problem with my Unitrack, gluing it to painted foam. You don't need a lot of stick, and as you scenic, it will get more and more glues. PowersteamGuy's hot glue in the corner method works, but low temp glue is best for this. I've also had good luck running a bead of tacky glue along the edge of the track and running my finger along it. Does not dry as fast as the hot glue, but still works. I also disagree with the don't stick down the switches. This is good advice for flex and regular switches, but unless you are really torquing the Unitrack, it isn't a concern, again YMMV.
