Need a bit of guidance

+ 1

Caulk also allows a bit of time to get things straight and smooth. I'd pin the track with pushpins until the caulk has cured to make sure there are minimal bumps (did you remember to sand the roadbed so it's nice and smooth?????? That's why cork roadbed is best for smooth trackwork...it can be sanded...), then, pull the pins out. Use a lot of pins.

(EDIT) I see you've decided to go with WS non-cork roadbed. My experience with it is not good. As has been stated, it's compressible, which breaks the ballast off, causes premature breaking of solder joints and vertical bending of rails...which are near impossible to fix...and, it can't be sanded to get your track flat. Ah well....

Interesting thread. Keep the progress shots coming.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

 

Chris, my preference is to use Weldwood contact cement.... Brush on lightly on both base and underside of ties, wait a bit, press in place. Flexible, solid and once dry, will not come off when wet. But, can be pried off with a spatula if realignment or modifications are necessary. A pint of the stuff goes a loong way....
have fun, Otto K.

 

I ended up using woodland scenics white glue. After my research I decided it would be easier in case I need/want to change anything. It feels solid to the trackbed. i also did a test piece and it took a lot to rip it off. The foam trackbed is also pretty firm it doesn't give very much.
Pic of the left half

The very inside little rail is not attached yet unsure of its final resting place.

Thanks Chris

 

That track is just there for show mostly it will have just a couple cars on it that will probably just stay there. I'm just going to pin it for a while until I decide for sure. I may make another bridge; a simple one to run that track longer over the creek that I'm going to put in under the main bridge.

Thanks Chris