My track build

I thought I'd share my track building experience. This being my first build ever. I chose n scale for the smaller size because of space limitations. I built my table 6' long 4' on one end and the other end 2'
Going to be going for 1920-30's time period.

table with foam painted a tan color


Laid out my track according to my plan


Then made my incline its 1'' at it highest out of pink foam.


I bridge that's going on the raised section. I made out of balsa.


Couple little buildings I made. I hope once painted right they'll fit in going to be some kind of mill or grain facility.


That is where I'm at until my trackbed gets here.

Thanks for looking.
Chris

 

They were a Walther's ( brand) kit i put em together while eating dinner The bridge was scratch built

Also just made some outhouses from scratch. 1/16" balsa.


Thanks Chris

 

Chris....have you run a train up and down that grade while you wait for trackbed? I know that 4% woulda been heck ! Looks like it should be 2% with a one inch rise now. just curious if trains like it

 

I did run a train up and down the inclines and around several times with all 6 of the cars I presently have. It works great especially when you get all the pushpins out of the way.

Thanks Chris

 

Thats a good thing then...good job !

 

My trackbed arrived yesterday. I used a low temp glue gun to apply it to the foam table top. I know some people aren't going to like that but it turned out great I think. I went slow few inches at a time. Smooth and no glue lumps. I fastened down the track today I used woodlands white glue. Some people suggested using a caulk but after my research I felt the white glue would be easier in terms; in case I had to replace a section or a switch. It was easy to brush on and dried fairly quick. I'm going to wait a day or so to make sure all cured and run a train around and hopefully (fingers crossed) it still runs smoothly. My bridge I used cork over it looks better I think.



PS
The inside rail is not glued yet. That is why it is not straight with trackbed. I'm still in decided on its path. Its going to be a siding for the Mill.
Thanks Chris

 

I ran two main wires from the power pack to distribution bars to which the rail feeders hook up to I soldered on 6 different rail feeders evenly spaced around the layout. Since I mostly used flex track I think 6 power points should be plenty. I need to tidy up my wire mess and get the feeders hooked up. Hopefully tomorrow night after work i'll have a running train. I know I'm ready as is my 3 yr old. Pics and update soon

Thanks Chris

 

I guess we'll see with the test run. Probably tomorrow nite. I have work to do after I get off work and tomorrow I have to go look at a remodel job and prepare for cub scout meeting. I thought model railroading was difficult at first but try keeping 13 fourth and fifth graders busy for an hour. I'm one of those people that aren't happy unless their running in 10 directions at once.

Ballasting should be done last after the scenery is done. So I don't disturb it too much right.

Thanks Chris

 

As to your ballasting question. I wrote this on your "need a bit of guidance" thread:

"Before you ballast, paint your track. I use plain old Krylon camo black ultra flat as a base coat, covering any Styrofoam that's near the track with old newspapers taped together. The Krylon will melt Styrofoam, but you should be giving your track a light coat...just enough to cover the sides of the rails and tops and edges of the ties. Make sure you get the Krylon off the tops of the rails before it cures hard....which means no longer than 20 minutes after you have sprayed it. I use a clean cotton rag that's damp with plain old paint thinner (not soaking wet with it) and swipe the tops of the rails a couple of times...let the thinner evaporate, then hit it with a Bright Boy.

Check for any bare spots and touch them up with the spray can...then remove paint from the tops of the rails again. After you're satisfied, you can then paint the ties by spraying the lightly from directly above with either your airbrush or an appropriate brown color from a Krylon can. Clean the tops of the rails again, then test test test.

Pick a few individual ties out with slightly different tones and shades of brown with a small (not tiny) brush.

Now, your track is ready to ballast.

Before you ballast from a scenery standpoint, it's often easier to at least paint the Styrofoam scenery base near the track with an appropriate Latex-based flat paint.

From a scenery-layering aspect, the ballast should be the last layer you apply, but practically, with trees, bushes, telegraph poles and tunnels getting in the way, ballasting is usually done right after you've got your scenery base shaped, but before it's scenicked.

Make sure you ask questions about ballasting because there are several ways to do it, each one have it's merits and demerits. It'll be up to you to decide how to do it for yourself and what your modeling philosophy is, but I would suggest one thing for certain, use real rock ballast from Highball, Arizona Rock & Mineral Company or a few others. Woodland Scenics ballast isn't the best and can be difficult for novices and experts alike."

Which means "No". Ballasting should be done when you are satisfied with your track work, after you've painted it and tested it by running trains on it, not after you've scenicked everything because all that scenery stuff will get in your way.

Ballast is normally very durable when applied to track laid on cork or wood roadbed, but with your spongy WS roadbed, it won't be so durable. However, it's easy to fix, so make sure you keep some spare ballast in a jar somewhere to fix the parts of it which are going to crack off, or the parts of it you'll be digging out to repair your soldered rail joiners and electrical feeders when they are fatigued and break because your rails are flexing when you clean your track, because of the spongy WS roadbed it's laid on.

Cheerio!

Bob Gilmore

 

Experienced model railroaders follow an axiom which states: "Solder a feeder on each piece of rail."

There is a corollary which states: "Never depend on rail joiners whether soldered or not to conduct electricity."

So, instead of guesswork as to whether you have "plenty" of feeders, each rail gets a feeder, no matter how short. That way, there's never a doubt and if a couple of rail joiners decide to break or the solder joints go bad, then you won't have a dead section of track.

Of course, this may seem like a lot of trouble and over-doing it, but, it's good model railroad practice and worth the effort for a reliable and electrically trouble-free layout.

Here's a photo of my feeder install when I decided to go with and install DCC four years ago. Note that this view only includes the feeders for the "red" rails. The "black" rail feeders still need to be installed.


It would have been a LOT easier if I had followed the above two axioms when I initially did my straight DC wiring.

Live and learn.


Cheerio!

Bob Gilmore

 

I want to underline what is said above from my own experience:

- I'm coloring and ballasting all track at first - before scenicking. I cannot imaging to fiddle around with ballast in between the completed scenery and all details.

- I solder a feeder at _each_ piece (regardless how short it may be) of rail before glueing it down. A turnout gets at least 7 feeder wires. The feeders are soldered at the bottom side of the track, just between two ties. I drill holes directly under the track and the feeders are put in before laying and glueing down the track. After ballasting you won't see any feeders or any soldering - how close you may ever look.

 

Been working on the track some I have been pretty busy with work and everything else. When I say work I mean My main job that pays the bills; One that pays for my hobby; One that is for extra stuff.
Started on my mountain and got the wiring done. The train ran good... The steam engine I was/am going to use for the layout quit working for some reason. I guess I'll take it apart and see what's going on with it. I'm settled on a scene of a Forrest and loggers with a saw mill. Dirt roads, a stream/pond, grass, and trees maybe a little farm stead. I want it simple yet visually pleasing.
I'll try and get pics on here soon.

Thanks Chris

 

New app can't figure out how to edit. Anyway I also ordered my ballasting material a gray and reddish color mix. Made of real stone found it online. I found a video on here of someone doing the ballasting that I have watched several times and taken notes. Should be easy enough.

Thanks Chris

 

This updated tapatalk app is not very good. Slow and it won't let me upload any pics for some reason. I'll figure something out. I have been landscaping bushes and grass. Got my roads laid out. Cut in my stream and pond. Ive planted 200 trees already and just bought 100 more still not enough. Got my ballasting in mail the other day haven't started that yet. Ordered a sawmill kit should be here Friday I'm pretty excited for that. Its really starting to look like something now. It was a lot easier than I expected probably do to the fact of all the great people and advice on this forum. I will continue to work on this picture situation and keep updating as I do stuff.

Thanks Chris

 

Got it working I think.
Start of mountain. Foam and paper maché

I put on a few light coats of drywall mud I had left from a job

airbrushed

Track ballasted and start of trees and grasses

this is how it is for now

I have a whole bunch more trees and stuff to put on as you can see. I got my sawmill put together and have been working on the stream and pond.

Thanks Chris