I recently decided to switch all my track out to Unitrack from numerous manufacturers of flex and turnouts. I started with a few turnouts and some single track straights. Everything started out great then I thought I'd try some double track sections with super elevated curves. One hairpin on the east end of the layout (which is flat benchwork) came out just fine even with the custom piece that I modified to match the available space. Ran the layout for a couple weeks at that level and all was fine. So now I moved on to a little more difficult task, horseshoe curve transitioning into a 2% incline grade. My problem only comes with my Kato FEF-3s when they are eastbound (exiting the super elevated curve on the incline). The FEFs hop the rails between the super elevation and on the transition curve leading into the grade. When the curve and transition was soldered flex track it wasn't an issue and the curves were flat vs elevated. Do any of you other unitrack users solder the joints to improve alignment of the rails? The curves are pretty big for unitrack. I used the V11 trackage pack and my derailments always occur on the inside radius sections. The 2 radii are 19" and 15" on the inside curve. I'm considering soldering the joints on a couple sections, sanding them smooth and giving that a try. What do you think?
I never solder Unitrack joints. It isn't necessary. The curves on my layout are 24 inches and 28 1/4,to 30 inches. Shades
I'd say try the fingernail test first; run a fingernail over the track from tangent into the curve and see if you feel a jump or vertical difference. This could be fixed with a file. I'd also just double check that the joints are firm, as the unijoiners may be a little worn and not holding well; I know Kato sells packs of replacements. It's also possible (although you don't say which curve is affected) that the 15" may be pushing the envelope for the loco. Do you have the same problem with any other equipment?
One of the common problems with the double track elevated curves is that users do not install the transition pieces properly. These transition sections have a right and left hand section in regard to which side of a curve they are connected. Try changing that, it should solve the problem. Mike Fifer has a YouTube video about this problem. I have used Kato Unitrack double track on my home layout.
I've already hit the joints with emery boards and files. It helped but still occasionally climbs the rail. As far any other loco issues, everything else makes the curve fine including my SP GS 4s. I have much tighter radius horseshoes at the end of a yard and the FEFs make it fine in both directions but the rail is all flex, soldered, and sanded smooth with easements going in and out of the curve. The track with the super elevation where the problem occurs is all brand new. Straight out of the box. I have a couple tricks left. I may start the beginning of the change in grade farther back towards the middle of the radius and if that doesn't work, flatten out the whole super elevated portion of the curve and extend the length of the grade to where it is all straight track vs. starting in the radius.
Is it just one place? Or more than a single transition point? Check track gauge, just to be certain. It should not be a problem. But once in a while....... I have on occasion soldered Unitrack joints. Not a recommendation, but just saying so.
FWIW, the outer radius of the curve sections in the V11 set is 16.3". The V16 set has curve sections with larger radii of 18.9" and 17.6".
Got it fixed. It appears it was too much elevation change in the radius and transition. I extended the beginning of the incline by 6" so now the incline starts in the center of the curve. This changed the overall degree of incline slightly but just enough that the FEF can go around the curve wide open. I've reviewed most of Mike's articles on working with Unitrack and have customized the length and degree of arc of several pieces including dual track super elevated curves to fit my space necessary for a "S" curve. Now I'm gonna' try to make some flex.
Good. Glad it has been solved. What might have been interesting, is to see an up close video of the before and the after, so that we could watch the loco as it ran through the trouble zone.
You might want to do a little more research. I'm holding the box of the V11 20-879-1 in my grubby little hands and the radius is 414mm on the outer and 381mm on the inner. I would have used the larger radius if the existing layout had enough space but I'm going to have to go to a smaller radius for my last horseshoe section. I still have a mainline return radius with a parallel yard lead to replace. My layout has been in place and most of the scenery is already done. Kind of limits the possibilities.
This is Mike Fifer's YouTube video on alignment of Kato Unitrack Proper Super Elevated Easement Use that I mentioned earlier. Respectfully Submitted. https://youtu.be/S5Ck-l5prhU
