Hi folks. My N scale layout spans three 7x4 plywood sections. I need to separate the three sections but the track was originally installed across the seams with no gaps. Therefore, I will have to cut the track across the seams. My question is as follows: can the track be cut following the seam even if that means the cut would go diagonal to the track, or does the cut have to be 90 degrees with the track itself? Assuming the sections will realign the same as before (via dowels in the bench work) is one cut better than the other? Many thanks!
Mypins, Either cut will work. However, by far the best way to rejoin the track is to use a short piece of track over the plywood join, 5 inches is a good length though shorter works. This method for N-Scale, has been proven for 30-years with N-Trak and is very good advice! I have tried the cut at the modular joint many times. But, it is difficult to get perfect alignment in N-Scale and mysterious uncoupling is a typical symptom of a badly aligned joint or too big a rail gap. So, I have always reverted to a short piece of track to cover the track, annoying but it just works better! - Tonkphilip -
Anything suggested in the second post will work. If you make your cut at 90 degrees to the track, you will also have a short bit of track and ties overhanging the edge. This might be an invitation to damage. So if any cut is a must do, I'd follow the seam.
Agreed that it works and probably better than any other method that I have heard of but what a pain it is when setting up an Ntrak layout. It is undoubtedly the most time consuming part of any Ntrak set up. Some advocate using the Kato expanding rail but in all the Ntrak layouts I have seen at the N Scale Weekends in Bedford, PA and Columbus, OH I don't recall any that used them.
On my clubs traveling modular HO layout we run the track and ballasted roadbed right up to the gaps between the modules. We then cut the rails back one inch on each side of the gap. A two inch piece of rail is cut to fit the gap and is almost invisible when in place. This can also be done when the track is on an angle to the gap or on a curve. Our modules are held together with 3-1/2" Butt hinges assuring proper alignment.
My 5'6 x 8 main layout is composed of six sections with multiple tracks and multiple levels. No section is larger than 27x48" so it will fit through a door OK. That's now been proven with four different relocations over its life. One thing I did do and do recommend is working the flextrack soldered into sectional track at every joint, particularly those on curves. I've got the alignment good enough that the gap isn't the problem, but curve kinking and gauge variation on flex was. That was solved by going over the sectional at the joints (even if I had to cut ties and tweak the radius slightly). I also used 'school glue' as water-soluble ballast adhesive, which when all else failed, allowed me to loosen up and re-align track at the joints as necessary, particularly for vertical curves. Another tip I'll offer is to never, ever, ever skimp on all-new rail joiners at the joints when re-assembling, and also make sure that you've got soldered-in feeders across all table joints so you're not depending on the rail joiners alone for electrical continuity. I went so far as to put EVERY cross-joint wire through 12-pin Moulex plugs, which considering the complexity of my wiring, lighting, signaling, etc. was as much of a major effort below the table as above. But when I had to move it, it went together perfectly. My standard method was to design the joints so that I could slide a new rail joiner all the way into the rail on one side or the other so there were no joiners in the way, then re-bolt the tables together, then slide the rail joiner back across the rails to make the new rail joint. Mine is rarely disassembled, but these kind of standards have been the only way I've been able to get a layout ever 'finished' - plan for demolition and relocation in advance. It's a lot of extra work during construction but it's been worth it.
This is a timely thread for me also, and so I have read with interest all of the responses. I still have a couple of questions relevant to my situation, which I will put our there for your advice: 1. How would you recommend handling the situation of a switch laid directly over the module joint? (in my case, I have at least one Atlas C-55 number 7, and one curved switch to worry about.) The most obvious solution (I think) is to separate the switch entirely from both modules, clean up the ballast, and then re-emplace it during re-assembly. 2. How would you recommend dealing with a curved multi-track yard over a module joint? (In my case there are 5 tracks laid with different Atlas C-55 curves, and the joints overlie the module joint.) One option would be to try to separate and rejoin all 5, probably with some (fairly messy) ballast adjustment. An alternative would be to measure and cut-back the curves to accomodate appropriate radii half-curve pieces.
This is all which is coming into my mind. I wonder what a more creative mind than mine might suggest?
With the switch, I would remove it when you physically separate the modules to avoid damage. Before you reset the switch in place, shave the tops of the ties on the abutting track so you can slide rail joiners all the way onto them. Reinstall the switch and slide the joiners back over to the switch. If you cut the curved rail one inch on each side of the module ends with a thin dremmel cutoff disc and shave the ties as for the switch above. Cut through the ties right over the gap between the modules. You can use the cutoff pieces of rail to replace into the gaps mindful of the different radius of each rail piece. You probably should trim off the spike heads and use a drop of CA to secure the rail in place.
The only thing I've had even remotely close to that is a switch over top of another switch inside hidden track where the top layer has to be removable for emergency maintenance of the bottom one. And there's a table joint in the middle of the entire mess. Of course. I ended up painting up .020 styrene, a big sheet of it, and gluing the switch to it, and ballasting over top of the styrene so that the entire 'plate' was removable across the table joint, which kept the rather tight alignment intact. The track joint is now at either end of the styrene plate at both ends instead of anywhere near the switches in the middle.
On Free-Mo-N modules, we always cut exactly at the edge of sections and modules, with no rail joiners or expansion track. While module ends are at 90 degrees, sectional ends can be almost any angle. The key, there, is a sturdy endplate (3/4" birch ply) and soldering the last half-inch of rail on either side to PCB ties. Then all that is needed is to ensure a tight clamping of the sections, with track aligned, when reassembling. The ideas, above, are all good, too, and everything depends on the specific situation. On the JACALAR, I use expansion track at the ends of the lift-out section that spans the doorway.
