Exactly what I thought when I saw them. The flared radiators are so poorly done....It's like they didn't even try. At least they got the color right, unlike Kato's last offering. The details and accuracy are just so poor.
I agree. The radiator grills would take some major help, maybe they could be salvaged with the Train-worx #401 radiator screens. It would probably take 2 sets of BLMA doors to fix both sides of the long hood.
Mine had a tendency to cut out the sound and motor and just stopped. It happened twice. I've been running mine for a while, and it got much better. What I also did with mine is a soldered very tiny magnet wires to each copper pickup tab that contacts the metal frame (not interfering with the frame, but inboard of the frame contact points where there is empty space). Those wires go to the halves of each frame contact point. It's not perfect, but it overcomes the problem of those bendy pickups not contacting the frame. I also put some electrically-conductive lube where the bendy contact strips tough each frame half. Haven't had a problem with it stopping on my track with the new mods, if you will. Bachmann should have put better capacitance on the engine. Eventually I'll figure out where to solder more capacitors to overcome the sound and motor cutout. This is a Soundtraxx decoder, so someone has to figure it out. There are very tiny copper solder points or circles on the circuit board. What are those for? Test points? And the two big silver cans in the center, are those capacitors or something else? Could one solder on more capacitors to the board? If so, where?
I added separately applied grab irons. Now I just have to paint them. I found another discrepancy. In the rear, above the headlight, at least on Santa Fe SD45s, the engine number is missin in the center above the rear headlight. They did not put them in the numberboards. I have decals to fix this. And this weekend I plan on filing down the frame where the plastic shell sits. You can easily file off about 0.8-1.0 mm. Just don't file off too much of the copper contacts from the trucks will be useless.
First picture shows the engineer and separately-applied grab irons I added. Separately-applied grab irons in back. I still have to paint the rear once I find Santa Fe Yellow paint. Front pilot details. I plan on replacing the coupler cut lever soon. Rear pilot details. I replaced the front and rear coupler with an Atlas coupler which is closer to scale. I have to weather the coupler soon. I still have to replace the sunshade with a better one and replace the 48" fans with ones from BLMA. After that I want to add lift rings.
Nice job getrhumpy. Well worth the investment. Mine should be here within a week and I will have my track running by then. Perfect. Thanks again for sharing
Is that the tread from the front walkway sticking out from the side of (and/or running under) the cab?
Thanks for your review of the Bachmann EMD SD-45. I may consider getting the D&RGW version. It looks very much like the old analog version sold several years ago... which were being 'blown-out' for $30 on eBay. I was not very please with the performance of those... hopefully... the new decoder equipped model will be better.
Unfortunately I can't see the pictures at work, but I looked at the tread again, and I don't see what you're talking about. The tread is neatly tucked away.
The motor control is very smooth. The sound is great, and Mark on his website even mentioned that it was the best factory-equipped sound engine he's ever heard.
I think folks are talking about where the cab meets the frame sill. It appears that the cab is not all the way seated leaving a small gap showing a bit of the walkway. With the cab and sill yellow, and the walkway blue(black), it stands out like part of the walkway is sticking out(the dark line between the cab and sill). I have no idea how Bachman secures the cab to the sill since I have enough Kato SD45's to pull my apartment around town, thus not needing anymore of them. But if this area of the walkway were yellow as well, it would indeed be less noticeable. Is it possible the cab is just popped up a bit from handling while adding the grabs?
Just make sure your sucker light isn't on and from what I've seen so far it's resembling the products of the past. Usually the warning I give out is they tend to tear themselves apart as they operate on your layout. Not that they all don't but it seems to me even the ones I purchased recently will run well for awhile and then die on line at about 30 hours. Beware!
He also mentions that he sent his back to Bachman for performance issues. But he did say the sound was that good. That's the deal killer for me how Bachman uses the wipers on the trucks. Those flimsy little affairs that always need adjusting at some point. I read how you worked around this and that's good. But most folks are not going to either take the time nor have the skill set to solder magnet wire. Especially to a new loco. If they would have taken a cue from Atlas on their GP15 that would have been an improvement IMHO. While it's still a tab hitting the metal frame to conduct electricity, it is a more robust tab the entire frame sits on which seems to work well. At least on my set. I know the guys at our club are enjoying their steam engines that they have purchased from Bachman. They sure have stepped up their game. Just a bit to go on their diesels maybe.
I see what you're talking about. There is a black or dark blue line between the cab and shell. A little bit of paint can take care of this. The cab is secure to the shell.
