Maintenance and Modifications. I want to do a sticky on how to modify and Maintain or z scale stuff. If you have a link, add it to the list. This is from Garth. http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...3-MTL-F7-wheel-axle-sets-removed-for-cleaning http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?155327-MTL-F7-issues&highlight=maintenance+z http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?161613-Reassembly-of-MTL-F7-chassis http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...ot-Booby-Trap-quot-Intermittent-Short-Circuit http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...s-F7-a-few-more-words-on-running-improvements
GP35 http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...Trains-Geep-servicing&highlight=maintenance+z http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...-improvement-for-GP35&highlight=maintenance+z http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?122994-DZ123MO-Question&highlight=MTL+GP35
MTL Mogul http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...L-Mogul-care-question&highlight=maintenance+z http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?163724-Using-AZL-tenders-on-marklin-steam
Here's some links I've found useful: DCC in Marklin Mikado/Pacific: http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...DCC-decoder-in-M%E4rklin-Pacific-Mikado-steam DCC in AZL GP38-2: http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?137730-AZL-GP38-2&p=877226#post877226 I'd also like to post some other links to places in the zscale and z-world sites if management would find it acceptable. Mark
E8 Chassis upgrade to the brass shell http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?162585-Upgrading-the-Brass-E8-with-new-E8-chassis
Since there have been so many questions regarding DCC installation in the AZL chassis here's the links to the manufacturers' installation instructions: http://www.digitrax.com/support/vid...llation/dz123z0-installation/?product=dz123z0 http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/Z_Scale/AZL/SD70/SD70_AZL4.html While neither covers all the AZL models, the chassis are all about the same. Also note that the dz123z0 decoder may have too much solder on the end that goes under the metal tabs and should have some removed with the careful use of a soldering iron or an abrasive. Mark
Mark: Great post ... I will send many DCC inquisitive customers here. One comment ... solder wicks are so cheap, if anyone buys solder and an iron, go the extra $4 and get a wick. That is the best way to remove solder. Set the wick over top of the area from which you wish to remove solder, apply the iron, wait a second, remove the wick ... check board clearance. Rinse wash repeat until it clears.
