SP Flip - In general folks here don't foam - not even privately. it is why I am here. Your observations are duly noted but they do not change ours especially since most comments here are based on empirical evidence. Tomix track is a non-issue here as it is not readily available. Do you feel my comments are not accurate? If so in what way?
Have really injoyed this thread. I thought I would goto the Japan site for Kato, and see what if any new items were on the drawing board for those in Japan. Here is the link for you folks: http://www.katomodels.com/distribution/schedule_e.shtml Enjoy Steve
Well here goes another newbie if you will. I have been in and out of the hobby in as far as one scale to the other but my heart is in N Scale. Scales is not the issue here but unitrack in and of itself. I just purchased two N Scale Kato F7 C&O sets for the reason of obtaining the 2 F7's, the two cabooses, and the four Erie two bay covered hoppers, the two tank cars did not fit my era. When I seen this unitrack for the first time, and I had seen HO version of Bachmann (and was not impressed), I was totally impressed and I thought initally that besides the fact it was too glossy (and that it could be dullcoated and rail weathered). The tie spacing seemed just a little bit farther apart than US counterparts but it could be dealt with. Only question I had or have is in example a yard ladder what the exact distance between tracks center to center would be as I am not following N Trak spacing. I am in the process, actually just beginning to lay flex track myself but have stopped and have been researching everything unitrack has to offer. I was especially impressed as well that there is a piece of conversion track (whatever it is called) to go from unitrack to regular code 80 track. This unitrack has a LOT of possibility's where TT has only a limited offering at the moment. I also would like to thank all who have gave their opinions on the two, TT & unitrack. So I do have a question, I plan to use Peco switches, but if I were to convert to unitrack since I am just getting started laying track, how are the #4 & #6 switches, are the unitrack #4's more like Peco #6 (medium)? Making a yard ladder what is the spacing center to center between tracks, 1 &1/2? Kato site states 33 millimeters = 1.29 inches if I recall. Also, those concrette elevated curves, anyone using them? Is the elevation to much or just right? Could the ties be painted so not to look like concrette? So come weigh in here and give me the "poop" to help a newbie out. Dave
Hello Dave and welcome to N scale.. and Trainboard. The Unitrack #4 turnouts have a problem. They need to have the points filed down & a 'pocket' to be filed into the outside rail in order to prevent wheels from 'picking' the turnout point. The #6 is an excellent turnout as is the double-crossover. I would not use Unitrack in yards. I would transition from the Unitrack by using the conversion piece and use either Atlas code 80 or the Peco code 55 to make the yard ladders. Unitrack spacing and the built-in roadbed doesn't work well in yards (my humble opinion). SP_Flip: While I'm a 'fanbois' of Unitrack... I realize that there are some limitations and some compromises to be made when using it. Unitrack is an excellent track system with a proven 'track' record . Tomix Fine Track also has a long history and many supporters outside of the US of A. A couple of years ago, a gentleman who was leaving N scale (moving back to HO) showed me some of the track 'he said' was formerly provided in trainsets from Micro-trains (In the early 1990's???). It was Tomix Finetrack. Apparently it was an initial attempt to get Finetrack into the mainstream here in the US of A. Because it is not very well supported or advertised... it never took hold. I bought a bunch of his N scale stuff... but... didn't buy the track even though he was practically giving it away. The issue (I told him) was that I didn't believe I could get more pieces of it. At the time I thought it was a failed product... I didn't know Tomix had such an extensive line of track. If Tomix had made even a reasonable attempt to market their product here... I might be singing a different tune. Please check this very informative page which gives some history and comparisons of Tomix and Unitrack.: http://japanese-model-supplies.com/Unitrack/ The Atlas TrueTrack looks like a near 'knock-off' of the Tomix Finetrack. The connectors look very similar... the ballast looks similar (similar tan color) and the track geometry seems to be the same or nearly the same. Perhaps the only real differences are tie spacing and track height (code 65). I wonder it the two systems work with each other. IF so... then there would be a large variety of track segments already in existance.
Grandpa Joe thanks for the input!! Not use Unitrack in yards. I would transition from the Unitrack by using the conversion piece, by going from a switch say coming off of a main track using a transition piece to say a Peco switch with a transition piece then on the other end of the mainline switch that came off of the main? I have a lot of Peco code 80 switches that I planed to use to make the yard ladders. I will check out the link you referred me to as well. Thanks again! Dave
Dave: I use Unitrack in the switching yard of the JJJ&E. Most of the turnouts are Unitrack # 4's. I've made the slight adjustments required to get these turnouts to work properly. Its no big deal. I've also incorporated some # 6 turnouts in the yard as well. The JJJ&E has been running successfully now for nine years. Here is a photo of part of the switching yard with the turntable area to the far upper right. In this photo the layout was still under construction. (near right)The finshed switching yard is ten feet long. All the track has been weathered and ballasted. I used the Unitrack conversion track in the Turntable area as the holding tracks are a combination of Atlas code 80 rail and Unitrack. Below is a photo of the turntable area. I'm sure the peco switches will work well for you. You can use Unitrack successfully in yard situations.
I agree with the Atlas in yards if you have the skills. I use kato #6s for reliability in my yard. This is 2 x 5 feet. The spacing allows nicly for "manual swiching" but I always wish I had more storage. Edit: The spacing varies from 1.25 to 1.75 inches. As folks know I don't care about appearance. Yes, using Atlas switches would save a lot of space and money here. Hmmm, maybe. I could probably increase storage by at least one 4 foot track.
Thanks for the reply's! The ONLY issue I have with the unitrack "is" the spacing of the center to center. I have been laying track, flex utilizing a 1 inch center to center for more prototypical look. I do not think I can achieve anything close to that in unitrack is all. Using a 1 inch center to center laid on one half of a regular piece of cork roadbed. Ballast will make it all look great as well. I will have to weigh the choices, but again I want the closer spacing, mainlines being 1 1/4 inch, 1 inch in yards. Choices, choices... Dave
Dave: You can't get a one inch spacing with Unitrack. It's more like 1.25". That's not an issue for me as I do make compromises to use a very reliable track with no electrical problems at all. This layout is run by DCC.
I could deal with 1.25 spacing just concerned about say switches on a yard ladder and if you are able to achieve the 1.25 spacing between tracks. The other thing I like with flex and code 80 you can cut the switches down smaller if need be as well. I will just have to think about it I guess. Dave By the way Happy Thanksgiving to you and all as well on here!
Per an edit of my orriginal post: The spacing varies from 1.25 to 1.75 inches. Yes, using Atlas switches would save a lot of space and money here. Hmmm, maybe. I could probably increase storage by at least one 4 foot track. Then again, yes, maybe I could cut the turnouts down and ... nope, not touching nothing. I back 4 foot trains around the 90 degree yard lead curve, and then through reverse curve of the turnouts with no issues. I will transition to flex track for the straight sections of the yard. As it is I can only run two trains as a time anyway.
Grey one I got ya now...use the unitrack switches in the yard transitioning to flex...duh...flew over my head. Thanks again...still debating... Dave
I think the wide track spacing of Unitrack is another manifestation of its Japanese origins like the wider spaced ties. Anyone who has seen a Japanese double track mainline in person would see what I'm getting at, the narrower 3'6" gauge track makes the tracks seem spaced further apart and the Unitrack track is a good representation.
Hello. I, as a rookie, also plan to build this layout too! I was going to tackle Atlantic Longhaul but I am not ready for mountains yet. I have lots of Atlas Code 80 track and switches etc. How much wider are you going on the board as maybe I should do the same? Please let me know how yours in progressing and can I ask for advice if needed? Thanks much, MLPF&S
TT center to center spacing, what is it??? Just out of curiousity...True Track...since Kato spacing IS 33mm (1.25"), unless you use the number 6's in between main tracks then it is like 1.49" or something like that...WHAT if you use two TT switches (since they only have two) as a single crossover from one main to another main track (Double mainline) what IS the spacing for True Track? Even the Kato double crossover the center to center track spacing IS 33mm...what is the TT center to center...thanks!
Hi all! A newb here. I currently have Kato N Scale Unitrack. I have tons of it. Some I bought new and some I got used at a VERY good deal. I probably have some 30 turnouts of various types amongst other stuff. I really need to inventory it some time. I am about to set up on a 12'x8' table which is good size for N scale. I was running 1/32 scale SCX slot cars on it for a while. Time to go back to the trains. I will say that I have some experience with Kato and Atlas. Years ago, my dad and I used to dabble in HO scale and used Atlas. I am sure it was code 100 as I am not sure if code 83 was around in the 70's or not? The ties were black I know. May have been steel track then and can't say for sure if it was Code 100. Maybe a different name. Would need to see some old Atlas catalog or something. Anyways, I have to say that I love the Kato Uniotrack. I am sure I am in the extreme minority when I say that I like the look of Unitrack. More so than Atlas True Track. I like the gray color personally. The track stays together and I almost never have had a problem with conductivity. Of course, the inventory of pieces beats up Atlas TT pretty bad. You almost would have to integrate some regular Code 83 with TT in some situations for sure. Atlas makes a fine product though. The turnouts are certainly cheaper than Katos. Atlas would not have been in business this long if they made a poor product. I just would like to see them make more pieces available. Its TT's only real achilles heal right now. Neither system will do you wrong.
