Here's the question, ho track code 83 down and using Atlas #4 manual switches. Want to install Tortise machines to throw switches. Question is to you ballast track and switches before installing the Tortise ? I am still new at this any any help would be appreciated.
Install the tortoise and make sure it works well before ballasting. It is hard to tune a switch once the ballast is down. Get everything up and running and fully operational, then ballast.
Agree with Karl install the switch machines but also run the layout and debug before attempting any ballasting
Get your track and switche in shape before ballasting. I used Woodland Scenic's ballast. I used theree colours: Two parts Buff, One part Dark Brown, One part light Brown. If I were doing it again I would add one part of Medium Grey. I used the glue and soap mix to stick things down. The photo shows how it came out
Yes ! Get your entire RR running best as possible before any scenery whatsoever. If you wind up using plaster on hills and rest ALWAYS put down masking tape (the cheap blue stuff at the 99cent store) on the track to keep plaster and plaster powder from getting on track. Believe me, no one in this forum will disagree with this. Once you get that white stuff in rails and ties, and transfers to car wheels too, it's one of the biggest scenery mistakes you can make... A word about #4 switches: You realize these are very tight obtuse on the turnout route and usually are only good for small or short equipment, perhaps in an industrial setting. Forget long passenger cars or long freight cars and even possibly diesels in tandem (multi unit) other than maybe one at a time as coupler clearances will be maxed out around this sharp turn and will thus force derailments .If at all possible I'd rethink using #4s for whole RR. and go to #6 or larger. Use #4s on small spurs leading to say, a loading dock or small freight yard...Happy RRing. Mark
I agree all good points. I have used most makers of ballast. Painting the track is a great idea too, I got one of these and it has turned out to be great for painting the rails http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/350-101, used their paint too, a bottle goes a long way. I will not use anything but real rock again, there are several vendors that crush real rock for ballast, it looks better, and behaves better. If you look at the prototype, notice the ballast is generally kept off the tops of the ties. I use a cheap 1" wooden handled chip brush to get the rock where I want it, off the tie tops, then grab the brush by the bristles and lightly smack the track (this sounds nuts but it works) this will vibrate ballast from the rails and settle the ballast like it has seen many trains rumble over it, and glue in place. What kind of ballast cement is a whole nother thing, many different ways of doing it.
While you guys are at it, how about some tips for ballesting turn outs! Thanks, Dale Inquiring minds want to know!
I try to paint where the switch is gonna go a very dark Brown/Black, lay the switch, paint all the non-insulated joints, points rails, frogs and rails with neo-lube from Micro Mark, then use Blue tape, mask over the points, frog or any movable joint, very carefully ballast around the switch, be very sparing with the ballast and glue, I put neither between the rails at the points for sure. After gluing I remove the tape right away and remove excess glue and ballast. Thats just me LOL. I too would like to hear how others ballast switches.
Everyone always seems to have this big awesome fear about painting and ballasting switches..Just dig right in and do it. I've sprayed unmasked, un-petroleum jellied switches with rust, directly at them without a hitch. The latex paint or even oil paint does not permanently weld the thing up. In fact, nothing happened. The points worked right off, I BrightBoyed the rail heads and was a done deal, every time. Same with ballast. Just go ahead and sprinkle it in up to the tie tops, brush off a tad and it's also a done deal. Switches aren't some big highly complex puzzle of machinery. They're hardly much different than other track, scenicing-wise. At least that's my experience.
Thanks to all that rePLIED I do appreciate all the input. As a newbie it's nice to have a good source of information to go to. The track us down with some changes coming up (don't they always) and will be working on turnout wiring next. Again thanks guys!!
