Within the last year, I have started to learn how to scratch build, starting with a simple concrete tilt up warehouse. I built this warehouse since I could not find a typical tilt up, let alone one large enough to handle 1980's freight. I then decided that I truly wanted to model the Pacific Electric, a railroad that ceased passenger operations in 1953 and freight operations in 1964, when it finally merged with it's parent company, the Southern Pacific. I decided that a freight heavy branch needed a freight station. I based this station off of the one that was in Santa Monica, CA. This is a picture from 1953, right before the end of passenger service, and the only time that a PCC car went down the Santa Monica Air Line Since I had the freight station, it was only common sense to build a lumber company, based off the one right down the street, so up went D'Amato Lumber, based on Fisher Lumber (who was the last rail customer on the Santa Monica Air Line in 1989) I started scratch building out of a need for what is not available, and I see it as a way to be a better modeler than before, so, do you scratch build, and if yes or no, why? John
Absolutely. I see scratch-building as fundamental part of Model Railroading. If no one scratch-built, every layout would look like some cookie cutter variation of Woodland Scenics Scenic Ridge; same buildings, slightly different track plan. Of course anyone wanting to model specific scenes/locations must be a scratch-builder. I could wait 100 lifetimes, and guarantee you no manufacturer would ever release a ready-built model of Roca Grain Elevator for my purchase. So scratch-build it is. Likewise, if you want to model an overpass either you use Rix Products overpass and have the same cookie cutter model as 95% of other modeled overpasses, or you scratch-it to look exactly like the prototype. (Still a bit to go on this one) Lastly, I dabble in T-gauge... enough said?
Holy Moly!!! That is some great scratchbuilding there!! I model in Z-scale, so some basic stuff just isn't out there yet, commercially available, so I gotta' hit the plastic!!
I usually scratchbuild structures when nothing suitable is available in kit form, but now that I'm retired I hope to do more. The work above is excellent! The two shown here are freelanced in N Scale, a yard office and an anthracite coal breaker. The breaker was great fun to build. Looking at a portfolio of prototype photos, I carefully built up a model in cardboard to get the proportions right, then proceeded with Plastruct and commercial windows and doors. I painted it and my late friend Ken Waller skillfully weathered it. I'm hoping I can find suitable locations for these buildings on my new layout.
My N scale scratch building has been minimal. My tastes being rather simple, much of what I have desired could be had via commercial kits, or factory built up items.
The pleasure of scratchbuilding is probably one of the only reasons I’m still in this hobby. I’m not an expert but I’ve scatchbuilt every structure, a caboose and the steam powered dredging equipment on my prototype HO scale Zalma Branch layout. The era is 1915-1920ish which really encourages scratchbuilding.
Okay, I have scratched built a bit of stuff for HO using wood; however, I am now getting into styrene (plastic). Cutting wood is easy, a micro saw, safety knife etc but cutting plastic is new to me. I've tried using a fine jig saw blade and a dremmel cutter but they seem to "melt the styrene" more than cut it. The obvious question then is - How do you guys cut your styrene so cleanly?
Great work everyone! Yes, i do scratchbuild. I started off with a plate-girder bridge a few years ago. Now all my buildings (in the making) are scratchbuilt. I have a few kits but they were practice items which eventually will be placed in the back rows of the layout's urban part. Wombat457: A scriber can help a lot in making precise cuts in sheet styrene. Also a mitre-box is essential for cutting rods, strips, beams etc.
Score with a sharp xacto or single-edge razor blade, using a steel straight edge. Make multiple light passes, then snap the plastic. It'll come away clean.
Cutting out N Scale structure window locations from sheet plastic is a bear. I do it from the backside, as the knife always slips and scores past the window corners, but it's tough to make progress and get them square. Maybe I need to borrow from woodworking and drill a hole near each window corner and insert a saw blade to make four straight cuts.
Silhouette Cameo cutter is one of my top 5 best hobby purchases. Does all that precision cutting for me.
The best way to cut out window openings is with a corner punch. They are pricy but work great. Available from micromark in 2 sizes.
I bought the smaller corner punch from Micro-Mark and it works great. Biggest hassle is taking it downstairs to my drill press because it works so much easier than trying to tap it with a hammer. That makes all my little parts dance on the workbench. LOL
Mark, This cameo cutter does look great but at $250 you would need to be scratch building everything I think.