Im partial to a transparent distressed blue. I’m the only one in my area doing blue modules so it’s easy for me to show them to others, I just say the blue ones are mine. My club’s modules are black, and another club member uses battleship grey on his. There is another club in my area that does use a brown that could be owl brown… come to think of it my Tram layout is stained a dark cherry color so I’m kinda guilty there too.
Hello First, I have released some T-track modules which I placed on sale at 29.99 each for the next few weeks. Second doing a drop-down bridge module and have a question. Right now, the drop is a 2 x 6-inch drop. Aas shown in the photo thinking of making it a little wider so a section of Kato 20-40 fits on it at each end. On mine I'm using our bridges so the Kato track will not work on them so going to add a section of flex between the ends, so the width does not really matter to me. And suggestions on it? thanks rich www.rslaserkits.cmm
I think a valley width to fit the standard 186mm (7-5/16") long Unitrack bridges and viaducts will be popular with customers. However, Kato's largest standard, through-truss, 248mm long bridges (single and double track) can also be accommodated in a single module, with a 29mm/33mm straight track piece on each end. However, that may not leave enough room for adequate mechanical structure on both ends of a single module. The bridge would be slightly off-center (by 2mm) in the module. But such a bridge is visually much more impressive than the shorter Unitrack bridges.
I think a valley width to fit the standard 186mm (7-5/16") long Unitrack bridges and viaducts will be popular with customers. Andy I am changing the file to use the short 20-45 62 mm sections on each end so the standard 186 MM bridge can be used and will have it done soon. Hope in a week or so as have 3 shows in 3 weeks to end this month and start next month. Do need to get some ordered for a test build rich www.rslaserkits.com
Well, have the bridge module ready to go and will get on the web site tomorrow They will list for 36.99 but will have on sale for the next few weeks at 31.99 and the straight and corner modules at 29.99. The bridge module is set up for using the Kato 20-40 or 20-45 sections on the ends and either the Kato 20-010 124mm track section or the bridge. I'm using the 20-045 flex connection section for my display module and out bridges. Photo shows our 60 covered bridge I'll have out next week. rich ww.rslaserkits.com
Doing some work on our Bridge module kit and have the water poured and working on the waterfall. Using woodland Senics realist water and Water effects. Took forever for the water to dry and same for the water effects before it cleared up, but as soon as I poured more Realistic Water to the top pond and flowed it over the falls it went white. Hope it clears up some rich www.rslaserkits.com
I would like to have a run-around between the two main tracks and I am wondering if I should use 2x #4 turnouts or the single piece cross over which uses #4 turnouts? Running DC and since this is for my layout only the track is wired BWBW. Any recommendations?
It is listed as 20-230 on the Double Track page on; https://katousa.com/n-unitrack-concrete/ Comes in LH and RH along with some concrete colored ties.
The single crossover has one control (manual and electric) for throwing both switches in unison, and is shorter than the double crossover, leaving more room for a run-around in a given space. The double crossover has four independent manual controls, and a single, combined electric control. Depending on the electrical control used, the solenoids can be separated for throwing them from separate controls. The single crossover is more reliable than the #4 single turnouts (out of the box). Sometimes the single turnouts need mechanical tweaking, typically filing a tapered pocket in the side of the rail for the point tip to hide, to prevent picking the point when the switch is thrown. Newer #4s seem to be more reliable than older ones. The #4 turnouts have advantages in switch-dense yard applications, etc., requiring less space (length). You can use the single crossovers to create a run-around track, with stub siding(s) off either or both end(s). Note: the double crossover uses the same #6 frogs as the #6 switch, but it shorter than a single crossover constructed of two #6 turnouts. Two #6s also yield wider than standard track spacing.
We just release our version of a T-trak double module, and they are now on the web site and shipping first ones out today. https://www.rslaserkits.com/T-trak-D...le_p_4254.html rich www.rslaserkitsa.com
So I made my first module sale today. Well not exactly today, but I finished the order today. I had a request to built 2 double modules for someone wanting to get into T-Trak but who lacked the skills and tools to build their own. He contacted me the other day with the request and started the other day. I used a new building style from what I usually do and I think it worked pretty good. My feet are stainless with acorn nuts on the end, I can take credit for that, Stewart Denniston’s modules he sent on my last order from him had the same, I liked the idea so I ran with it. Building has started Weighted down while the glue dries. Almost finished. The upside down The finished upside down. Finished top with holes for adjusting the feet from the top. The Feet. Well that’s that. Lemme know what you all think.
Nice work!!! Did you cut the top oversize, then route it's edges flush with the base? Could the corner gussets be clamped in place while the whole corner joint's glue dries if they were a hair bigger (to clear the other clamp?) Thanks for sharing the leg/foot design (and giving credit where due.) That's a slick idea. Are those long 'set screws' (headless with hex socket in the end?)
Yes I made the top about 1/8th of an inch too large to route to the edges. It makes for a much cleaner look that way. The corner gussets could if I had the right style clamp for the job. I dont have any of them and I dont really want to buy them when I dont do this all that often. If I did make these for a living or as a side gig then I may spend the money on those. The way they fit is pretty tight as made here so there is that. Yes they are 2" long set screws with a female hex on the top. The only issue I can see with them is they could rattle out in transit, but aside from that I feel they will do a much better job than the nylon ones from Masterpiece.
