You have for sure raised the bar for scratch building in Z-Scale by tenfold Chris. This is good work and thank you so much for sharing some off your techniques with us.
Wow guys I don't know what to say, glad you seem to like it. Me I just wanted a Berkshire so I tried to build one, sometimes projects work out just right and sometimes they don't (I don't show off the ones that don't) This was kind of fun because I posted here before I had ever held the Marklin locomotive in my hands, so it was like I had to do it now. Really I get a bunch (OK just about all) of my ideas from others and seeing everyone else's work here online probably keeps me going. Some of you guys belong to clubs and get to enjoy that. Where I live there really aren't clubs and the guys at the hobby shop think N scale is crazy! None of my friends/buddies are into trains so basically it is just me sitting here playing with trains so it's fun to share. I don't want to compare work with anyone, but I did physically get motivated after seeing your L1, I pushed away from the computer and went right to work again. Steve, I understand what your saying about the drivers, I think Erie was the first to use 70" with the 2-8-4 wheel arrangement. I really think I'll let it be though. The Marklin chassis is kind of funky with it's odd space between the wheels ( for the idler gears) That spacing and seeing the large wheel flange make the wheels look bigger I think. I will still put some sort of flywheel on the motor. No gearhead on this one although I do love them and even have a 8x16 with a 16:1 gearhead sitting right here. That would be way too slow... Here is a 10x16 w/4:1 gearhead I put in a N scale 2-6-2: Motor is in the tender as well. I think a straight 8x16 with the Marklin gear ratio will make a nice running locomotive. (yikes! $50 just for wheels!) John, The "eyebolts" are etched handrail stanchions from Gold Metal Models steam dress up kit (N scale) it comes with a bunch and many sizes too, I used the small ones. Something from BLMA would work as well I just had these handy.
Off topic, but does anyone know if the Marklin 2-10-0 chassis will go around 195mm curves? http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/el/loco/erie-s4222w.jpg ; )
Robert, Left over Marklin tank car wheels, but I just noticed that the cars that came with the 2-8-2 set all have blackened wheels so I will use them instead. The trucks only pick up from one rail each. 6 out of the 12 wheels transfer power through the axle points to the cast brass trucks and up into the tender. Were you ever able to make up those 4 wheel live tender trucks? I could end up needing a couple pairs.
I never could get the wheels I need. I am stuck at half of the wheels power pickup. I do however have some Japanese Z cars that I got from Hobby World Japan, and they might be usable, but I have not had a chance to test them out yet. They have the correct electrical format, but the shape is a bit different, so I have to make the axle points sharp like MTL's, and find a thinner tube for the axles. I think I'll go to the garage and mess with them right now.
Actually, they have 2 different 2-10-0s. One small and one smaller. The Larger of the two scales out pretty well to be a "Russian Decapod", but the driver size is too small for most other NA 10 driver arrangements. Way too small. I made a Russian a few years back and painted it Pennsy, but it doesn't feel right. I'm probably going to cut the chassis and try to turn it into a consolidation. But, they do work on 195mm curves. I keep thinking that adding a set of drivers to a Mikado would be the way to go. My problem is that the Pennsy Dec was really about the same length as the Mikado, so I would have to come up with a more compact motor arrangement (or put it in the tender). I'm also looking at adding a set of drivers to a Pacific to make an M1. Dan S.
Dan, I was looking at the 8884 chassis: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=001&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=110120228295&rd=1&rd=1 Is this the small or large one? Do you happen to know the driver size? The USRA 2-10-2 is about the same size overall as the Berkshire: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:USRA_Light_Santa_Fe_diagram.jpg As long as the drivers are close (the Berk drivers are 10" too small, but the flanges are the correct size.) I'm getting ahead of myself, but it would be cool to have the Berk pulling fast freight and a 2-10-2 (Erie R2) pulling a coal train.
Chris, That is the larger one, it has about 52" drivers (.235"). I will post some comparison pictures in a bit. Dan S.
Thanks, Would you happen to know the size on this one as well? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230128233000&rd=1&rd=1 This 2-10-2 #88887 may be a better starting point. I'm looking for the axle centers from the front driver to the rear to be close to 1.219"
I've got a feeling that the Erie 2-10-2 is about the same driver size as the Pennsy Dec. The I1 was about the same length as the Pacific and Mikado (K4 and L1), the last set of drivers was under the fire box. I have attached some comparison photos of a stock Mikado and Marklin 2-10-0, and My Un-Pennsy Dec (never completed). Like I said, the larger Marklin is almost perfect for a "Russian", did the Erie wind up with any of them? Another side note, the pennsy Dec (and most other 10 driver configurations in the US) had a couple sets of blind drivers (flangeless) to help with binding on curves. Some also incorporated sliding axle arrangements. Dan S.
The only thing I can tell you is that the driver diameter is the same as the first one. I don't have one, but I did measure the drivers on one once. The length that you are asking for, on the 2-10-0, anyway is 1.165" (approx, ceners by eye using Mitutoyo dial calipers). I attempted an M1 (4-8-2) Mountain using a Mikado, once. I wound up taking it apart (I left the chassis in tact in case I wanted to try again), it didn't look right next to the Pacific or Mikado. It should have been a Pacific with one set of drivers added. Dan S. Actually, after checking the USRA drawing again, the 62" dimension of the driver seems to be for the flange, the wheel is only 57", so, the 52" driver will probably look pretty good. Dan S.
Thanks Dan, I think it will work. Erie had Russian 2-10-0's, I think of the original 200 left in the US Erie got 75 of them, but soon started selling them off to other railroads in the 1930's, by the 40's they were just about all gone. Erie also had these: http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/el/loco/erie-s2501alb.jpg I would rather do up a USRA heavy 2-10-2 like the ConCor model I have in N scale. Erie had 25 of them. Maybe I could even doublehead it with a Mikado someday! Don't forget the flange on a Marklin loco is about 4.5" deep adding 9" to the visual size of the wheel, real flanges weren't near that deep.
Well now. Last month, I decided to have some sort of an improptu "Annual Contest" (http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/search.php?searchid=210482) to see what new out-of-the box innovation we could come up with for Z. People are now etching brass down better than a scale inch, laser "cutting" 3D profiles for rolling stock roof and sides, etc. We even have a couple of new target signals. But I was looking for something a bit more truly unique. But I have to say Chris, a multiple roll, tip 'o the hat to ya (Rob's already bowed down) for outstanding work. Really stunning detail and innovation ! And we're only a month into the "contest". Keep it up guys.
Chris that is truely outstanding work! When this thing is painting you'll have the model of the year in any scale!!!!
Chris that's absolutely awesome!!!!!!!:thumbs_up: Just a question, in order for your work to be upgraded from 19.75/20 to 20/20 as a quotation, do you intend to add valve gear on your fantastic scratch-built locomotive? Dom
Simply fantastic, Chris. When I compare your work to my small conversions.... Looking forward to see your loco finished!
Back to the Berk... I mounted up the motor in the tender and things run fine till it goes into a 195mm curve: You can see the coupler up in the cab is at a pretty extreme angle, remember I took out the flywheel to lessen this angle. It is still too much though. Guess I will now mount the motor in the cab. There is room, but there won't be for a flywheel like there would be in the tender.
Proof that it did run this way: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RV62wgZZRPo"]YouTube - Z scale Berkshire[/ame] Just not on sharp curves. The flywheel wasn't mounted for this video so it should run the same with the motor in the cab. Half way done with that now, will report back later.
