Robert, Hien does a great job on the repaints. He should command a nice price on this engine. If they are paying $250 for a little caboose, then he should get at least $500 for this engine. I was trying to add some grab iron to my engine, and I lost the last #80 bit. Now I have to wait until I have time to go to the hobby shop.
Those fans are my own laser rastered parchment fans. They are plenty rugged, and you can see the fans through the grills too.
This is my "repaint". Well, I did have to paint the fuel tanks and pilot. Its coming along nicely with the added details. Its just so time consuming to add all the details. I should be finish adding all the BLMA package this weekend.
Nice job John. I'm also touching up my CSX SD40-2's so they look a bit more prototypical. I should have the YN2 repaint done fairly soon too.
John it looks mighty fine, but all that detail is always worth it! So not to change the subject, I noticed you built a small layout too. Are you looking to start a new large one? I have to say I think the looks of that simple loop you made called the CSX box sub is pretty darn good looking. Before I got busy with the season I stated one but never got to it. Probably around thanksgiving before I have any time. Anyway keep up the good work!
Joe, post some how to mask pictures. I am sure it will be helpful to newbies that want to repaint their engines. To make it prototypically correct its going to take too much work. You will have to move the lights to the nose, and add hand wheel brakes. I just wish they had chosen a engine with a cab mounted light, but I am too lazy to make it correct.
Thanks Joe. Its my shadow box layout. The size is 11x15x2.5 inches. I plan to take the box to local shows down here. I dont think there are many modelers that have seen a z scale engine run.
BLW has the October MTL release up ZSM has the Oct release + the new circus cars! BN fans can jump for joy!
more details on middle axle I took apart the SD-40-2 truck and had a look at it and the center axle is powered but the wheels are milled off flush with the bottom of the truck and there is no cone on the wheel so it makes no contact with the power pick up either. There is a dimple on the brass strip but it is not being used. The other axles have wheel sets with axle cones for electrical pickup. There were some reports of the axle being lifted but this is not the case. If you could get a wheel set with flange and gear I am sure it would drop into the truck frame and work just fine. With the current wheel unless you are in strong light you can not tell whether it is there or not. It would be interesting to know from the Joe just why this was done. What were the engineering problems that prompted this move. On the other hand It looks like a good candidate for bullfrog snot. Measurement of regular wheel over treads is .1820 inches blind wheel over treads is .1720 inches. So this indicates 5 thou clearance between rail and blind driver wheel tread.
If you put a straight edge on the wheels, against the flange, and wiggle the straight edge left and right there is hysterisis in the motion of the center wheel, meaning it don't turn until the gear turns. I checked all 4 of my locos the same. I can fit a .006" thick piece of wire in the gap, so there must be some height gap built in. I think probably JUST enough for a layer of Bullfrog Snot. Here is a closeup with the straight edge:
I took a day for myself, and am making some progress on my MRL SD40-2XR's. First one decaled is #264, in the Operation Lifesaver Lionhead scheme. Cab showing the Sinclair Antenna: Fireman's Side: Engineer's Side: Rastered Fans:
BY the way... I am NOT going to use Testors Dullcote on the next units, as it lumped up the finish real thick! I was so careful to use thin coats of paint, and the dullcote ruined it!
MRL Sweet! Robert, Very Nice!!! Simple yet colorful!! The Rail Link paint scheme has been a favorite of mine since the first time I saw it. Most paint schemes are Blah, but MRL is in the few that POP!!! Even though the Dullcote did what you claimed it did, the shell looks fabulous!!!! Hobo Tim
Hi Rob, use Pollyscale or Floquil Flat Finish, works perfect and if you spray a bit thicker you get a fading effect for free! Still have to do my MRL stuff.....
I'd check how the truck behaves on different radius curves. See if the tracking works on MTL 195 or finer curves. I suspect it may look & work better on larger curves. Not sure if AZL has a 6 wheel truck to compare it with.
