Been working a bit at a time on this particular project for about 6 years. Used a Bulkhead flat from ExactRail and the rebar is those tie strips you get from the craft supply store for tieing plastic flowers together, cant remember the name of these little things, but there are like 8 bags of these I cut up and bundled. There are 20 pieces in each bundle and 88 bundles on the car, 6 layers on one end, and 5 on the other per the prototype. Also to unload the car, simply lift the loads from the car. The prototype photos I took in Grand Junction CO circa 1998. Painted the bundles with Model Masters Burnt Metal, Then dull coat and some rust chalks on the ends and some more dull coat, wrapped them up with "old school" drafting tape from an office supply store. Scale 4X4 and 4X6 wood was used to complete the load. Thanks for looking.
Looks good! I don't think many people realize how heavy rebar can be. Wouldn't take long to reach load capacity on that car.
Wow,Tom. You never cease to impress me with your modeling skills and creativity. You're on a roll! What's next?
That is a great looking load. Not sure if it was intentional or not, but the uneven bits sticking out at the end are a very nice touch just to "imperfect" it a bit.
I have used the florists wire in the past, makes very realistic rebar. Great job on that car. Alan www.andersley.co.uk
Tom, you captured the look of the load and car perfectly. Great job, and thank you for putting up pictures.
Six or seven Walthers freight car truck kits and a bag of metal wheeled axles. Just to see if I could still do it. Boy...after years of doing 0 scale trucks, these springs are lousy. Probably been sitting in the bags for 20 years....corroded, weak...good thing there are plenty of springs...they sometimes collapse or just break putting them in. Now I gotta dig out some old freight cars and Mantua couplers and assemble some rolling stock. Dave
Tonight I worked on three Athearn F units...two with no shells, yet. Some day I'll find some SP black widow A and B shells for them. Congealed grease and oil, some rust, lot of flash removal, lubed them up. I just have to dig out my bag of bands and set them up right rail positive, move forward.... Dave
And...as of this afternoon...an old Tyco 4-6-2 kit....a roundhouse freight car kit....a pair of Lee Town 1951 Ford kits...a Tenshodo B&O shorty coach...and a Nickle Plate (with logo) brass heavyweight obs...no trucks. A bag of Design Preservation building stuff.
Stuff just falls into my shop...seriously. No idea what I;m gonna do with it. Just found an IHC Mehano GN Mountain, in the box, no wear on any wheels....but the smokebox front is missing. Went through all the boxes of junk...not yet. Bunch of detail parts, all in one bag now. Geez.
The Tiniest project 70s era camera and tripod. 3 sewing pins and a piece of wire trimmed from the back of an led form the tripod soldered together. 2 small pieces of .020 styrene glued together to form the body, and a small nibblet of a parts tree for the telephoto lens.
That is a great piece of modeling. A reminder to the rest of us of what can be done with next to nothing.
I have some in progress shots of some cars I am building. I started on this Sunshine kit of a PRR X37B boxcar, and got sidetracked before attempting the underbody detail which was trying to match the photograph as there was no real instructions on how to install all this detail. Luckily the building of my Moloco and IMRC kits with full underbody detail taught me how all this stuff should go together. This is the roof of the next Eastern Car Works 1958CF Covered Hopper I am building. I am trying to upgrade the kit with a Plano Roofwalk, but Plano does not make one for this car, I did use the one for the Bowser car, but as the ECW kit does not have roofwalk supports, I purchased the roofwalk support brackets for boxcars that have had their roofwalk removed and these supports were installed on the roof and then the roofwalk was glued to these supports with Goo. Rick J
I am working on a Southern Rwy-inspired radio receiver car. This car is in the same vein as the radio-MU cars that SOU pioneered the use of for remote helpers in the 1960's. Still a long ways to go, I started with an old Penn Line baggage car, I added MU equipment and a base camouflage green color. Still going to add diaphragms, some sort of two-axle express/passenger trucks and radio paraphernalia on the roof before decals and lettering. I've also been working on the locomotive fleet. GP9 #2229 is ready for number boards to get finished before installing cab glass and handrails.
GP 30, I always have liked the look of heavy weight cars. Yours is pretty neat with the detailing. On the workbench, another Soundtraxx Soundcar Decoder, Current Keeper, installed and working. I'm installing metal wheel sets on 25 more cars and. Weathering the trucks and wheels. Im also assembling the 3 new boxcars I picked up in Oklahoma City. i am now running 2 of the Soundcars, each is programmed differently. The sound addition to the layout is awesome!
Rick J--Nice Details! Pat M--I like your projects I took apart the Athearn S-12 last night and at first it looked like an easy fix, then, it turns out the axels have a crack in them. With my Life Like Walthers GP18 I was able to order factory new ones. For the S-12, it does not show them as available. The Part Number is 40023, is there a substitute or does someone have a junk one that can be canabalized?? I can try a repair with JB weld, that will be the next thing on my workbench.
Noticed that the wheels were out of gauge on the S-12, also, one of the gears had a small crack; all of the wheels out of gauge: Decided to try the JB weld epoxy on the end of each axel and then insereted into gears to the proper width: Also had to put couplers in one and windows in two athearn cabooses, added a little black powder as well: These are not expensive items, but they fit the budget!! I can't stand a caboose without the windows.
