I guess I'm surprised that doesn't melt the plastic. I have the same variable Dremel that probably everyone else has, where the lowest speed is 5,000 RPM. The last time I tried to grind away some plastic at that speed it melted more than ground. Maybe I was using the wrong bit?
Perhaps you were using too much pressure. If you lightly skim the surface with a cutting bit, you'll be able to remove the necessary material.
Yep, it definitely takes surgical finnesse. Of course if you use too high speed, pressure, it will melt. If you try to take off too much at one time, even at low speed it will melt it. Friction, and heat go hand in hand. So, the objective is to do it slow, and careful. Grind a little, let it cool, grind a little, let it cool. Make sure you take it slow and let it cool for a couple seconds between grinds...
Jim, your question kinda got lost in the shuffle. The critical factor for small decoders is the current rating. In general, the smaller the decoder, the fewer amps it will handle. You could use a Z scale decoder for any scale, as long as the locomotive's maximum current draw is less than the decoder's current rating.
I think the silver mini, and the DZ125 are considered Z scale decoders. Don't they advertise them as N/Z scale? The have both the DZ125 and the Silver Mini, and I can't remember, but aren't they 1A? Or are they .5A? Can't remember, but so far, I haven't overloaded them. Of course on my small layout, I don't pull 50+ car unit trains....
I'm pretty sure I used too much pressure when that happened. I'm hoping that by using a Silver Mini I won't have to grind down too much in this case!
Tudor: The Lenz gold and silver mini decoders are N scale decoders. They replace the Lenz 521W decoder which was put out to pasture when the Lenz mini decoders came on the scene. The Digitraz DZ125 came to market long after the Lenz mini decoders became available.
I used the DZ125 in the 2-8-0. From the pamphlet it is rated at "1 Amp/1.25 Amp Peak" for "Z, N and HO" with "up to 18V track voltage." I don't know how it compares in size to the Lenz. It is the only small decoder within an hour's drive so I got it. I think it is small enough to fit in the tender just by reaming it out, but I already have cut the coal out from the tender so it's too late to ream it out. I have to build a coal load. I'm not great at dealing with the patience part of this hobby. If I hadn't of cut the coal load out, I could have fit it now since I shortened the wires. I wasn't patient.
Fred, the Silver Mini is .43” x .35” x .11" and the DZ125 is .418” x .340” x .112". Very comparable in size. Both 2 function, both have transponding, but in Lenz's case it's called RailCom. I've used the Silver Minis and like them. Never used the DZ125 but it looks comparable. I'm wondering if the Digitrax is so much less money for a reason or if the Silver Mini is just overpriced. No intention to start a decoder war here.
I also used the DZ125. It works out fine. That and the Lenz Mini Silver are the best choices. The DZ is about half the cost, but the Silver Mini has allot more functions that you may, or may not need or want. So, check those two out, and read the function differences. The DZ is about $20, and the Silver Mini is near $40. Both are VERY close in size, and either will work fine.
You can get Lenz silver mini decoders for under $30. The Lenz silver mini decoder has more refined motor functions than the Digitrax DZ125.
I think a big part of it is just the fact that Digitrax is made here in the USA and Lenz is made in Germany and imported. I guess I haven't looked in the right place because the cheapest I have seen it is around $35.
I think if you buy them in quantity a few places will give a price break. But Bob, if you know where I can get them 1 or 2 at a time for less than $30 please send me a PM... then tell everybody else a day or so later! laugh:
Ouch! I rarely have $600 to spend on trains at one time(yes I could save it up over several months, but there's too much other stuff I want also). I'll just have to stick with the DZ125's that I can get for $20 buying one or two at a time.
I'm starting to put a decoder in the 2-6-0 now. I have a question on soldering to the frame. All my solder connections on the 2-8-0 were fine except for the one wire that gets soldered to the frame. It is suspect. I'd like to do the 2-6-0 better. Any tips on how to get a good weld/solder to the frame?
This can be delicate and risky work, but my new favorite way to make great contact to metal that doesn't solder well is to drill a hole 1/32 inch diameter or less and a quarter to half inch or so deep. Then take a piece of brass rod that is ever so slightly wider in diameter than the new hole and pack it in there. It should be to a point where once in the hole, the brass rod will not budge. Make it flush with the frame and you have yourself a perfect contact point for solder to stick.
I had already started a hole in the frame of the 2-6-0 with my fingers turning the bit from the Micro Trains drill and tap set, so, after I got your response (thanks) I decided to drill using the Dremel; however, instead of putting the brass post in, I just placed the wire in the hole and soldered it. The 2-6-0 is doing laps with the decoder installed (coal load is off). I used the battery powered Dremel on low to ream out the inside of the coal load, and it worked great. The coal load appears normal on top but is very thin and flexes with light finger pressure, perfectly thin. Problem, the coal load still shuts down the motor when I snap it on.
BINGO ... the 2-6-0 is running DCC smooth and quiet with the original coal load in place. I have 4 locos on DCC now (Athearn Challenger, 2-6-0 and 2-8-0, and an InterMtn FT AB set. I have a LL 2-8-0 ordered so I'll be using Decoder Installation In USRA 0-8-0 - Powersteamguy1790's JJJE as my guide.:thumbs_up:
