OK - this is the most frustrating activity I've ever attempted :tb-wacky:. Even after being warned to perform this "in a box", there's still one open side, and these little itsy-teeny-weeny parts go flying everywhere! I am now short 2 of the hand-rail standoffs (A-7), as they are somewhere nearby, but unlocateable. Also, the A-3 and A-4 parts are nowhere to be found (weren't on the parts tree when I opened the packet, but then again, this was a used Mikado). Good news - I successfully changed my first couplers (it is a big deal when it is your first conversion), and this little guy is running like a champ. Pulled a consist of UP heavyweight passenger cars, including the old open back-end car, around the layout for quite a while.
Congrats on the coupler conversion! You know, its customary to get some pictures of the a locomotives inaugural run. I feel your pain on the detail parts. Even though my two came pre-installed, the decoder install still requires some pieces to be removed. Now I'm missing two of the handrail standoffs as well. And Kato no longer sells them separately unless you buy the entire body kit. Maybe you and I can go in on one and split the cost.
When Kato Mikes first came out, MR or Jim Kelly ran an article on how to install the parts. First with regard to the handrails along the boiler, Jim suggested that the rail be threaded through the stanchions then removed one by one and then you have the rail with the little stanchions ready to go into the boiler. To simplify and expedite the stanchions into the little holes into the boiler, Jim again suggested to use a popsicle stick with a small nick cut out of the rounded end and just "coerce" each stanchion in the boiler. I always used a small tip of watered down yellow Elmer's glue on a toothpick after I was done with a side to keep it from popping out when working on the other side. I now have 6 Mikes, and when I toiled over my first, it took me literally hours to get the parts on. Using Jim's suggestions, they went on in less than an hour's sitting in an evening. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman
Found one! So, only down 1 (plus the two other parts). Unfortunately, Kato is even out of the body w/parts kits! All that is left is the basic body shell. Everything is now installed. Took about 3 hours. Also, the pristine black is no more. Looks a bit faded and worn in places, as an engine of such age should. Was about to go back out to take the photos..... starting pouring, so, logged back in here
When I got my first two Mikado’s the details were not installed . After chasing down several parts several times I made a tool for installing the hand rail standoffs. A tweezers with a grove ground into them to hold the standoffs. I was glad to see the new versions come with the details installed. Well that was until I had to do a DCC with sound install. Now I must remove some of these to get the shell off so I can get the wires inside hooked up. So now it is a toss up. Good if you don't need to get inside. Not so good if you need to open it up.
When the Mikados first came out, I was doing repair work for a train store in Houston. I ended up having to detail many of those beasts for folks who gave up or did not want to even try. Once you have done ten or so locomotives and have the process down they go real well. I got to where I had plenty of left over stanchions that I was able to use on other kit bash projects. I still have a few if you need them.
I have a couple of Mikes that need the details installed, so I will follow this closely. On the plus side, I have extra detail packages just in case. But after reading here, i may wait and get decoders in first.
What are the A-3 and A-4 parts. I probably have extras after having 50 Kato Mikado's on the roster of the JJJ&E. I'll be back in town after April 26th. BTW, after detailing over 50 Kato Mikado's which are on the roster of the JJJ&E, it takes me all of thirty minutes to completely detail one.
You always install decoders in Kato Mikado's, before you install any of the detail parts. If you do the detail parts first, you will not enjoy the exercise of futuility trying to re-install detail parts a second time.
Bob, and everybody. The A-3 and A-4 are, I believe, the horns. If they aren't horns, they are whatever goes on either side of the bell. I will admit, the last 5 stanchions went a lot quicker than the first ones. Definitely takes getting used to.
Mikado detail parts I have several partial detail packs if anyone needs stanchions. I am not sure what A-3 & A-4 are so I don'tknow if I have them or not. Jerry
Here's what I did Well, since I started this a few hours ago, here are the results Will post more in the JACALAR thread
This grabbed my curiosity so I did a little Googling and came up with this... http://smrf.railfan.net/SMRF/smrf_research/marker_lights/index.htm
Funny thing about Tio Pedrito, passenger trains and Mikados, they bought a bunch of them that were almost copies of the USRA light 2-8-2 (the Kato is a USRA heavy) specifically for local passenger service on the Oregon Short Line. Many UP fans refer to them as 'mountain mikados'. I had the most success with a pair of small or average sized needle nosed pliers when installing handrail stanchions and marker lamps. Initially, I tried putting the stanchions onto the railing then pressing in the whole business, but I was less than happy with the progress. Do take care not to pinch too hard with the pliers lest you scrunch the stanchions or marker lamps. I do not know of any road that put air horns onto its USRA heavy mikados.
Well, not to be picky, but since Mark is referencing my favorite subject, the Santa Fe.... At least on the Santa Fe, "markers" are reserved for the rear of trains (or locos); what we are talking about here are "class" or classification signals denoting a class of train, i.e. regular (scheduled, no lights or flag), extra (white lights or flag) or a section of regular train following (green lights or flag). When running under T&TO authority, it was important to see whether a train was a regular train as shown in the timetable, whether there were other sections following (green) or whether the train was an "extra", not in the timetable (white). I don't know specifically about other RR's but I suspect the Santa Fe wasn't unique in this regard. Anyway, I would call the thingies hanging off the smokebox class lights. Regards, Otto
Mikado Traction Drivers Does ANYONE out there have a spare set of Mikado traction drivers they would be willing to sell? Looks like they are completely out of stock at every store that I've contacted, and Kato doesn't appear to have a restocking date. If you do and are willing to part with them, please PM me. I tried some Bullfrog Snot on the rear drivers, but that seemed to lessen the traction. Runs great on the flat, but struggles, with load, on the grades, as is known.
You might try calling Chan's Trains or Franciscan Hobbies. I very vaguely remember seeing a Kato TT Driver recently. Of course I'm sure you remember I similarly remembered seeing a set of Kato UP Smooth Sides at that last GTE show which turned out to be imagination.
Your memory is as good as at the GTE :tb-wink:. Neither have them. I've called a few of the other big stores in the Bay Area, as well, and no one has them, which isn't a great surprise.
