Wrightsville Port: N-Scale Waterfront Layout

Nimo Nov 20, 2010

  1. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    Wiring

    Well, this part of the hobby is definitely my nemesis! Though I have enough interest and fair amount of idea about electrical concepts, I definitely lack the hands on skills to do what I actually want to do. Clearly I was anticipating trouble while wiring (especially given I am using DC) and yes, one hell of a trouble it is!

    Anyway, somehow I have done the basic wiring to run the trains around the layout, and quite a few tasks are still pending, but overall I am kind of satisfied... well not really satisfied, but relieved that I have finally done it!

    I started with the control panel. I used Masonite board (insulation board) to construct the control panel. My wife had drawn the diagram on a black background that I pasted on the board and drilled the holes to fix the DPDTs and Peco Studs for turnout control (Yet to be wired). This is how it looks now after the primary wiring of the blocks.


    [​IMG]

    By the way, this panel is totally removable. Creating this panel also required some carpentry work (again!). But this was required since I had to make the arrangement for easy portability.

    Another important part that I wanted to do was avoiding soldering as much as possible because that's another grey area in my skill inventory! Especially soldering to the track. I tried this before and realized that it will be really hard for me to bring the level of perfection that I want to see. Now, to do this, I cut small pieces of thin (.1 mm) copper sheets and slide them between the track and the ties. This makes a flawless connection with the track and is very reliable with less risk of lose connection as compared to soldered joints (especially the ones I do :p). I wired the whole railroad using this method and it is working fine.

    [​IMG]


    Now about hiding these copper plates, it will be pretty easy for me since most of the tracks in the port will be concealed in concrete. Moreover, if you look at the joints, it will be easy to hide these using normal ballasting.

    The video below will show the first trial run:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8jalMGCLy0
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 31, 2010
  2. bubule

    bubule TrainBoard Member

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    Wow great modelling project ....and well done !!

    The weathering of buildings is great and the track plan is clever.

    JF waiting for more .... :tb-rolleyes:
     
  3. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks so much JF. :)

    It was actually a bad day for me and definitely a bad start to the New Year in terms of model railroading. I messed up the well laid track while fine tuning the grade at the trestle which was giving me some trouble since today morning. Worst part is, I somehow knew this was coming and did rigorous testing while laying track in this part of the layout, but I still couldn't avoid this. :( Now I might have to just re-do the whole thing again... :(

    Anyway, let's see how it goes. Vacation time is over from tomorrow and I don't know how much time I can behind model railroading from this week... :(
     
  4. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    Staging Yard

    Well, it has been a crazy start to the year for me... average 10-12 hours in office, root canal treatment, buying a new apartment... everything is moving in a rocket speed! Eventually, very less time to spend with my railroad.

    But I didn't sit idle... the track and wiring needed some fine tuning, so that's done. another important part is taken care of - staging yard.

    Initially I had a plan for a cassette and also made arrangements for that. But when I went to build it, I saw that the drawer is not working properly and it's pretty stiff. I tried lubricating it for some days and tried to do some fine tuning, but it never became smooth. Given I had less time in hand anyway, I couldn't really give a lot of focus on the drawer - moreover I badly needed a functional staging to start operating my layout properly. I thought of dumping the cassette and decided to go for turnouts - I had a few insulated type left from my previous layout and decided to put them to use. Two are Atlas manual and three Model Power (remote, but they were damaged when I had to dismantle my last layout in a hurry while moving to Calcutta). I modified them a little bit so that they can be hand thrown. Then it's a simple fork of 4 arms - 3 arm can hold 10 cars each, one primarily meant for loco/RDC storage.

    [​IMG]

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    Note that two tracks in the center are always live - ones on the sides can be switched on or off based on requirements. I am planning to put another turnout on the far end and connect the 2 tracks in the middle on the other end to create a siding/runaround. This will reduce the need of lifting a loco and will be particularly helpful for one man operation.
     
  5. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    Street Running in Wrightsville Port!!

    I had many wishes before I started this project - I wanted ships and boats, I wanted large water body, bridges, over and under action, good operation, unique design, trestle, lighthouse, urban theme as well as scenery, both passenger and freight operation, operating signals, everything must be packed in a small space... basically it was nightmare planning for this one (and that's why probably, I took years to plan this). But after all, the way it's taking shape, I am happy ...

    Now, I had another demand to myself - street running! I did some research long time back on street running in California and the moment I saw those prototype photos, I knew I had to model this.

    Another reason for finalizing this plan was that I could incorporate street running here - not literally, but every modern port has tracks concealed in concrete or asphalt - so from my perspective it's equivalent to street running - it looks similar, technique and technology is similar (for prototype) and street running modeling techniques are absolutely perfect for ports as well.

    By the way, in the mean time the tracks for the cranes are also laid:


    [​IMG]

    The modeling approach I adopted is actually from an article in Nov 2000 Model Railroader Mag. by John Pryke for his Union Freight layout. John used the technique for HO scale, but I figured that it can be easily adapted for N.

    It's simple - mess free street modeling using cardboard and styrene. I used tracing paper to copy the track profile and used carbon paper to transfer it to Cardboard/Styrene. I used cardboard for the outer side of the rail - there is basically no risk factor at all. The cardboard is cut precisely as per the track profile using a hobby knife, then thick posterboard support below for strength and shape, then just glue it to the masonite. Just keep vigil that any part of the cardboard is not above the track level, especially the part adjacent to the tracks. This might (and will) derail trains.

    The challenge is the inner side. Now in the article the method looked easy - and it is easy if you are HO and above. I realized that this wouldn't be a simple task the moment I started working on it. First of all it's half the size, secondly, 90% of tracks in my layout are curved, thirdly, N scale wheels need to have a lot of clearance which is not helpful for prototypical representation. Anyway, I started drawing the track profile on Styrene and cut them using a heavy duty scissor. Shape them using scissor and hobby knife. The pieces that went between the track had a bevel edge to facilitate easy wheel movement.


    [​IMG]

    I used Micro-engineering wooden ties (used for hand laying track) as a support to these pieces:

    [​IMG]
    Then just glue the styrene and dry for 2-3 hours (preferably with weight application).

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    Continuous testing for each piece is very important. Since this is at track level, the chassis of the loco might get stuck if there is a little bulge - also there is chance of derailment.
     
  6. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    Concrete Rail Bridge

    If you look at right hand top corner of the plan you will notice there is a small curved rail-bridge just behind the trestle and in front of the lighthouse, leading to the entrance of the small tunnel. I was pretty board cutting cardboard and styrene sheets for last few days to make the concrete surface of the port, and decided to build the bridge for a change.

    I didn't really want the bridge to be anything fancy, as you don't really see a fancy bridge in locations like that. I decided to go for an unimpressive concrete bridge.

    For robustness and stability I decided to go for wood and chose my long time favorite Jenga blocks. They are nicely machine cut with uniform shape and was perfect for the piers.

    First I had cut the two major components of the piers from these wooden blocks - two sections, the wider base and relatively thinner piers.

    [​IMG]
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    Next the span of the bridge was made from a single Masonite sheet. There is a 3mm cardboard support in the under side of the Masonite board for rigidity and to gain the right height.

    [​IMG]
    Then I created the side of the bridge with 10mm wide, 1mm thick cardboard:

    [​IMG]
    Then the concrete lining is done using the same cardboard, but only 3mm wide:

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    Concrete Rail Bridge: Mock run...

    Now putting the bridge in it's place...

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  8. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    Ballast Opinion

    I am doing some test on ballasting and would need some help selecting the right option. I have two shades and size of ballast - fine white and medium Grey. Below are some pictures - pure white and grey and the mix. Now which one looks better?
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    The Final Plan - after the changes during construction

    Well, it's been quite some time since the last post... and the work is going slow because various other engagements keeping me busy like hell... :( But I am not sitting idle - The installation of the under the table Peco turnout motors are in the final stage (actually it's all done - all I have to do is cut the extra length of drive pins and connect wires to the control panel).

    In the mean time I took some time out to revisit the plan and come up with the final version.

    The final plan of the layout:

    This is the plan after the completion of the track work and this is exactly how the real thing stands now. If you compare this with the original plan below, you can find the subtle differences. The track-plan is drawn in Atlas RTS 8.0 using RTS 10.0 library, because RTS 10 was not running smooth enough in my computer! Then the plan was imported to TrainPlayer 3.1.1 30 day trial version and rest of the cosmetic work is done in TrainPlayer. And yes, though now I can run trains in my 'real' layout, I always enjoy running trains in TrainPlayer. The plan below actually shows the snapshot of the beginning of an operating session. On the left you can see a 2-8-2 bringing the mixed freight - a slow steady run through the town scene. This engine will drop this train and pick up the one waiting just beside the red crane in the picture and head back towards the central yard (staging). Then the resident RS-2 is going to pick these new set of cars and start switching. It's great to play with a complete layout and see how different things can work out before actually building it. Well, it's a hell of a software and I highly recommend trying the 30 day trial version.

    [​IMG]


    The original plan:

    This is the plan I started with. Drawn in Atlas RTS 8.0. Cosmetics are done in MS Paint.




    [​IMG]

    Hope to come up with more updates soon...
     
  10. meledward23

    meledward23 TrainBoard Member

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    looking good. A lot of nice scratch build details.
     
  11. Seated Viper

    Seated Viper TrainBoard Member

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    You are not alone, young sir! The one thing I managed to learn in metalwork classes at school is this - Davies does not solder!

    Regards,

    Pete Davies
     
  12. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks so much... :) scratchbuilding is probably my biggest attraction to the hobby other than the urge to see miniatures trains running - I am in the process of making more... :p

    Thanks for the support Pete - really felt lonely there, you know... :( well it kinda has become my inferiority complex now - not managing the very basic skill in the hobby, but so far I am managing. And the last set of soldering I did with the Peco turnout motors are better than my last many attempts, so I am seeing some light there... wish me luck...
     
  13. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    Re: My first published article!

    Just wanted to share that I have my first published article on scratchbuilding in first ever eMag on model railroading in India: http://www.pline.biz/emag.php

    Hope you enjoy reading it... :)

    Also, if you are interested in larger scale model, the publisher of this magazine (Paul) actually takes custom projects. If you want to know more - send me a message. :D
     
  14. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    Coal Discharge Approach Bridge: Extreme Kit Bashing!

    Well, at last I could again start with the better part of the hobby - scratchbuilding! This one is technically a kit bashing project - but it's such an extreme case of kit bashing that the line between kit bashing and scratchbuilding become very thin in this case.

    I needed a trestle for my coal discharge portal approach. Now, it could have been easier for me to build a wood trestle, but I wanted a steel trestle instead! That too a very unimpressive trestle that ramps up to an age old top discharge, hopper to barge coal un-loader. The unique problem in building steel trestle/viaduct is the parts - the plate girder spans, bents and the braces - all have to have appearance of steel. Now, I wanted a little easy solution, so I went for Micro Engineering Steel Viaduct kit instead of buying separate I-beams and cross braces of different dimensions.

    In the picture below, you can see the main parts to build two double-bent steel towers , each 8 inches tall in N scale. It's a great kit and it would been really exciting just to join the pieces and make a tall trestle in a couple of hours or so - but in my case it was just not that simple.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]For this trestle:


    1. There is a odd 11" curve to begin with. The kit is not designed for such sharp curves.
    2. The trestle has nearly a 7% elevation.
    3. As the picture below depicts, there is an odd jump (or rather reduction) in height when the bridge actually connects the two sides of the land - 1.5". Given there is not much of clearance between the land and the bridge modelling the trestle in that section would be tough. Moreover, the trestle takes another jump in height at the end of it while connecting to the discharge portal.
    Solution? Cut them all in different sizes and make them match the given specs! I had removed the top one section of the bents to handle the sharp curve and to match the width of the trestle. Then I've drilled small holes on the baseboard to hold the bents. distance between the bents are kept exactly as the width of the braces in the kit, but the inner side of the curve had to be modified. Here is a series of pictures of the trestle after the first night. God it was tough!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    Coal Discharge Approach Bridge: Extreme Kit Bashing!

    Now, I have had laid tracks already and used a series of Jenga block for a strong base - kind of my own version of plate girder spans - so I would not be using all the parts to build the spans. I would just use the plates and stick them on the Jenga blocks as a cosmetic modification.

    Next morning, I added the cross braces to the small bents to make it look more like a trestle.

    [​IMG]
    Then there was a bigger problem - the span over the main line. As you can see - the span over the mainline goes through a pretty broad curve. So I need nearly double the regular span to connect to the last bent of the trestle on the water before it joins the discharge portal. I wanted to put extra heavy duty bracing for this, having support from both the bents.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    Coal Discharge Approach Bridge: Extreme Kit Bashing!

    Now I thought this is the end of it, and then I started writing this blog tonight after returning from work. When I revisited the pictures, I realised something - that last span is unrealistic from engineering perspective. If that span would have connected to double bent tower, it would have made sense, but to a single bent it is definitely a weak bridge. So I rushed back to the layout, took the remains of the kit and found to my relief that I still have some parts of the bents left. I decided to put two diagonal bents on two sides of the track and then connect them with braces. And, after over three hours this is what I had:

    [​IMG]

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    Well, this might not be the Eiffel Tower, but a small port in '60s North Carolina was not really known for the modern engineering marvels, was it? Now I am pretty satisfied with how this turned out. Most of this trestle will be partly hidden in bushes and trees, and as I imagine it after the model is complete - will be a very unimpressive steel bridge which is just perfect for the model.

    Next step - finishing the plate girder spans - some of which will have to be made out of card board since i do not have enough from the kit to cover the whole bridge.
     
  17. TrCO

    TrCO TrainBoard Member

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    I'll also throw my hat into that ring - Soldering is far from my forte. Alas, there is hope for us yet! We just need to keep at that practice!

    Also, fantastic work. I'm greatly impressed and inspired :) If I could just kit-bash to a good 10% of your ability... oh the things I could do :p

    Keep up the great work and great updates!
     
  18. John Bartolotto

    John Bartolotto TrainBoard Supporter

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    Nimo,

    Beauty!! I really like watching your progress.

    John Bartolotto
     
  19. Nimo

    Nimo TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks so much. :D

    I recently soldered all the connection to the rails as well for reliable and steady connection, and one thing I can say, how much ever I hate it, this is still the best way... I think the day we will be able to make a 100% reliable model rail road without touching the soldering iron - regardless of the size and the scale, we will enter the true NextGen of model railroading.

    As for Kit-bashing... trust me it's not that tough to resize and revamp the whole thing! :D The toughest part is actually to gather the courage to bring your knife closer to a 30 dollar product knowing if you go wrong, ALL that money is just going to go down the drain!

    Thanks so much John. :D The progress is not really as fast as I would like, but what can you do when work and other things get in the way. :(
     
  20. TrCO

    TrCO TrainBoard Member

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    Exactly! I can't imagine making that first cut...

    Maybe I should just buy a couple cheapy kits that I'd never really use and just have some 'learning time' *where's my good knife*...

    Well, my further Kudos to you Nimo. I look forward to following your progress :)
     

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