HO Scale - What's On Your Workbench?

RDGbuff56 Nov 17, 2009

  1. Mr. Trainiac

    Mr. Trainiac TrainBoard Member

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    Are the wheels in contact with any part of the frame? If they are in-gauge, then maybe something else is the problem.
     
  2. Ironhorseman

    Ironhorseman April, 2018 Staff Member In Memoriam

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    My first thought is someone has changed the center driver so that it does not actually touch the rail (like a 'blind' driver). Probably to allow the loco to negotiate very tight curves.
    My thought on why it barely runs is there is likely a slight difference in the distance(s) between the axle and main rods quartering point of 2, when compared to the 1 and 3. I believe this would create just enough of a bind of the main road to mess it up!
    I'm not a technical writer, but I hope you get my point! :)
     
    Amtrakking likes this.
  3. strummer

    strummer TrainBoard Member

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    Everyone, thanks for your input.

    No, I can see (and I thought the photo showed it too) that the driver centers are "mushroomed" out, which at the very least, causes the rods on those wheels to bind as they (the rods) contact the driver center (axle) as they rotate.

    I think I'm gonna have to contact Bachmann, on the outside chance they have some old driver sets lying around, although I'm not very hopeful...

    Mark in Oregon
     
  4. JimJ

    JimJ Staff Member

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    I'm still wondering how the heck that happened.
    Maybe drop a wheel in boiling water for a moment. Remove it and then place a book on top of the wheel using a tiny washer or something to place over the center of the "hub" and let the steady pressure return it back to center. I'm just just thinking out loud here.
     
  5. Mr. Trainiac

    Mr. Trainiac TrainBoard Member

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    Maybe try loosening the screw and putting a coupler or truck shim washer in between, to see if it is the rod that is causing the problem. If you think it is hitting the wheel axle, putting some space between it and the wheel may help.
     
  6. strummer

    strummer TrainBoard Member

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    Mr. Trainiac

    I was just about to post an update when I saw your comment.
    That is exactly what I did...and it worked! I needed to create some space between the rods and the driver centers, so I removed the driver screws, and put in a washer behind each rod. It actually runs very well; typical, I guess, of a split-frame steamer.

    Will see if Bachmann can come through with anything; I'm not hopeful, as this is such an "old" model...

    Mark in Oregon
     
  7. Mr. Trainiac

    Mr. Trainiac TrainBoard Member

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    I just checked on the website, and the driver set for the non-DCC version is sold out. In the K4 DCC version section, there are full chassis for $31.50. It also says on the parts home page "If you can't find what you need, contact our Parts Department for more information." They might be able to pull some strings to get drivers.
     
  8. strummer

    strummer TrainBoard Member

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    Yes, I saw that. I sent them an email this afternoon...we shall see.

    Thanks.

    Mark in Oregon
     
  9. strummer

    strummer TrainBoard Member

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    ...here's a couple of snaps. FWIW...

    IMG_20170714_070545590_HDR.jpg

    IMG_20170714_070605720_HDR.jpg

    I don't suppose any of you nice people out there have a spare tender you'd be willing to part with? :)

    Mark in Oregon
     
  10. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    Are you going to leave the top of the speed recorder cable over your truck like that and if so, it shouldn't affect performance right? Curious as next month my F9 is going to be getting hers and I figured I'd see how you were doing yours for some inspiration. Fantastic work btw.
     
  11. r_i_straw

    r_i_straw Mostly N Scale Staff Member

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    IMG_1296.JPG Here is a nice tender at a hobby shop in Roanoke.
     
  12. Mr. Trainiac

    Mr. Trainiac TrainBoard Member

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    I trimmed a bit off once I tucked it underneath the bolster, since I forgot about the retaining washer. It still runs over the top of the truck like that. There is plenty of room. The biggest thing to watch out for is vertical movement of the truck. Most of the time, there shouldn't be a problem. A few years ago I rebuilt an F7 and added a speed recorder. (I don't have it anymore.) There was plenty of room to run the cable over the top of the truck. IMG_3560.JPG
    Here is the same truck painted. As you can see, space was not an issue. I also added the MU cables, which ran in between the frame and the truck. The metal part is not the kingpin, it is a pickup contact. The bolster is over the rear wheel. I can lift the front wheel and touch the axle to the bottom of the frame before any of the wires get in the way. The body is still in desperate need of repainting. IMG_3562.JPG
    Here is a blurry picture of a Bachmann F7. There is a little bit less than 1/8" between the truck and frame. There is a loop that the brake actuator fits through on the top of the truck. As long as the wire is thinner than that is tall (which it is), you should be fine.
     
  13. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    Awesome. So I had this idea that stemps back to my G-Scale GP40. Of using heatshrink tube over the wire portion of the cable to make a realistic cable rather than a painted one. Hopefully mu stewart unit will have some clearance to do that, but awesome work. My Great Grandfather was an engineer on the GG-1 so I can't wait to see that model finished.
     
  14. StickyMonk

    StickyMonk TrainBoard Member

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    Ok it has been a long time since I posted anything, with a house move and the dismantling of the old South Lewistown my modelling has been very limited.

    But I have made a little progress on a couple of projects.

    First one I will post is one of 3 road Slugs, this one was rebuilt from a GP18 and will be painted in CRRC white. I have unfortunately noticed I didn't smooth a section down and only showed up when I put some grey primer on it.

    This will be the 2nd Slug I have the other is rebuilt from a GP7 and is in Montana Central paint, the other 2 I am building are from ex Andersley Western RS2 and RS3 locos and will retain their cabs.

    Other news is a new larger shed has been built so a larger South Lewistown will be built again.[​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
     
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  15. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    I love that slug, gorgeous work. A real Beauty. And I'm not saying that because I have a biased lvoe of all things odd in rallroading haha.
     
  16. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Matt- Are you following any specific prototype? Or freelancing the slug?
     
  17. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member

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    I really like your slug Matt all the details are really good.
     
  18. StickyMonk

    StickyMonk TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for the replies.

    The Slug is freelanced and is the last of my transfer slugs, the ones that are being rebuilt from Alcos are going to be road slugs.

    There is still a lot of work and details to add to this slug, apart from a snowplough it still needs all pilot details and all the air piping from the air filter under the walkway.
     
    dalebaker likes this.
  19. GP30

    GP30 TrainBoard Member

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    A Ye Olde Huff N Puff kit sold under the LW Models name. A wood bay window caboose of unknown vintage is under construction. These would be pretty rare in 1974, so this one will probably be on a local service or MoW assignments. About 75% done at this point.

    Interesting observation, this car is probably 1/2-3/4" taller than an Athearn bay window caboose. About the same height and length of a 40' Boxcar. This car could probably pass for S Scale with the right coupler and trucks.[​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    gjslsffan likes this.
  20. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member

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    Always a treat to see someone building a craftsman kit. Looks like your well on your way. Does the paperwork indicate the RR's that may have used such a caboose?
     

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