Hello all. I've very new to all of this and I'm having trouble finding information in Google concerning feeding power-loc track for DCC. I'll start out by saying that I already have a boat-load of power-loc track, so I'd prefer to stick with it since I acquired it for next to nothing. I know with DCC you should feed every 36" or so as a general rule of thumb. What I can't find is how to feed to that track without the use of a re-railer or something with the feeds built in. Has anyone done a DCC layout with power-loc? Is there a simple way to feed the track that I may be missing? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Mike
I'm not sure I agree that you need to feed every 36". How big is your layout? I've never used power loc, but I have used Bachmann EZ-track. Given that power-loc doesn't use rail joiners, I think the best way to do this is to use a small drill bit, one just big enough for the feeder wire, drill a hole next to the track and solder the wire to the outside of the rail. Just as you would if it were standard track
That makes perfect sense. I'm still in the planning stages, but I'm looking at around an 8x10 area with a 4x8 sheet on either end connected with a 2x4 sheet in the middle. Sort of like a U shape. I'd like to have 2 tracks on there if I can. I'm going to do the layout on the floor first and see what I can come up with. Thank you for the input on this.
I've read your post. I must say, using 2-3 4x8 plywood sheets is very dangerous and misunderstood by most beginners. I had the 4x8 in 1957 because that's what beginners naively did then. This type of train layout support can cause many a frustration : For instance: Are you going to build bench work so to be able to walk around its perimeter ? If not, you will regret it when you have to reach in some 3-4 feet to rerail or push a stalled train or fix a structure or tree back there. Then, if you still prefer the 2-3 sheets of ply get a proper understanding of 'cookie cutter' technique for your inclines..Otherwise lots of luck developing grades. I hereby advise you to take a look at 2 other benchwork technigues before you begin building; open grid and L-girder construction.. There is Sooo much info in Tboard and in Utube MRR benchwork ' how to ' videos..Call it tough love.: Do yourself a big favor and look into these, the how and why. What you're planning can very well become an albatross. This does not mean you should not have, say, a RR yard on a solid surface the width OF the yard. Not at all. But do check out 'sub-roadbed' risers, cleats, and ply right-of-way widths/methods of, before diving into the flat 4x8 table top type first.. Another is, purchase "Model RR benchwork" book by Lynn Wescott. It's all there .....Best of luck in your RR travels...
Thank you very much for the information. I've been trying to gather as much info as I can before I actually dig in. This was very helpful.
How permanent do you want your layout? One of the advantages of the integrated roadbed style track is portability. If you are intending to eventually move it, I would be careful of wiring just because it might be hard to get it back together again. If you want it permanent, you’re wiring techniques should be about the same as layouts that use cork roadbed. I wouldn’t worry in that case. The books you read or videos you watch should be relevant to your track. Like YoHo mentioned, drilling is probably the best way. While the wires might be a little more visible on the outside of the rail, they won’t interfere with the wheel flange. If you weather your track, just paint over them.
I'm doing a layout that will stay where it is for a while. No plans to move it around. Thanks for the info!
