Unitrack Rail Joiner options

Randy Clark Sep 11, 2018

  1. Randy Clark

    Randy Clark TrainBoard Member

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    Hope this is the right place to post this topic. It has been a while since I was active and I thought we had a Heading for Kato Unitrack topics but I could not find it so here we go.

    I have been running modern diesels for a couple years now and thought it was time to get out some steam for a change of pace. Now that I have my mainline converted to Unitrack including double track roadbed with super elevated curves in a few places I have run into areas where the lead pilot trucks are hopping the track at Kato rail joiners. Especially on long wheelbase locos. FEF3s and 2-10-2s.

    I am watching the areas where the derailments occur and sure enough they are repeating at certain rail joiners.

    I have found that removing the Kato joiners and replacing them with Atlas Code 55 joiners miraculously stopping the derailing problems. If it's a specially difficult track area where there is a lot of side stress and joiners in curves, I may resort to a small dab of solder to fix the joiner in place and maintain the smooth track transitions.

    Anyone else tried this with Unitrack?
     
  2. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky November 18, 2022 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter In Memoriam

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    Welcome back. The Kato Unitrack section (as all the user group sections) went away when we updated the software that TB runs on, a few years ago.

    Check to make sure that the metal joiner within the Unijoiner is level. I have found that when attaching the tracks, sometimes there is an angle in the small metal piece. I take a fine blade screwdriver and press down firmly on both ends of the actual rail joiner (not the plastic). This makes them nice and snug and I don't see any further derailments. Of course, also make sure the rails are really inside the metal joiner, and haven't ridden up on one end.
     
    mtntrainman and Hardcoaler like this.
  3. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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  4. NorsemanJack

    NorsemanJack TrainBoard Member

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    Randy - if what I am about to ask/say is extremely obvious to you, then please disregard...…

    Have you checked to ensure that you have installed the Kato double track super elevated curves in the correct easement sections to curve sections back to easement sections sequence? Also, have you confirmed that you haven't accidentally reversed the easement sections?

    I use the Kato double track super elevated curves and have never seen anything like you are reporting. I only have Kato steam, so if you are using another brand steam locomotive I don't have any experience in that area. Best wishes.
     
  5. Point353

    Point353 TrainBoard Member

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    What are the Kato part numbers (or what are the radii) of the double track super elevated curve pieces you are using?

    What are the Kato part numbers (or what are the radii) of the double track super elevated curve pieces you are using?
     
  6. baldylox

    baldylox TrainBoard Member

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    20-185,20-186 are the 2 sets of concrete super elevated double curves.
     
  7. Point353

    Point353 TrainBoard Member

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  8. NorsemanJack

    NorsemanJack TrainBoard Member

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    I use only the widest radii, which are the Kato 20-186 easement sections and the 20-185 super elevated curved sections. As you likely surmised, I am concerned that the OP may have accidentally reversed the easement sections or perhaps connected a super elevated curved section to a normal double track section without using the easements.

    OP:
    It may help to think of mating configurations as "A" = flat normal track section and "B" = superelevated track section. A normal track is "A" on both ends. A super elevated curved track is "B" on both ends. Each easement section is "A" on one end and "B" on the other. There has to be one and only one easement section, of the correct "polarity," between normal flat sections of track and the super elevated curve tracks so that there are only "A - A" and "B - B" track connections. An "A - B" connection would result two twisted track joints, which would be expected to show up as a derailment spot. Hope that helps.
     
  9. NScaleKen

    NScaleKen Permanently dispatched

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    I get derailments consistently with my bachmann rolling stock, little to none with my Kato and ExactRail rolling stock. Kato track joints can become misaligned if taken apart and reinserted a lot, easily fixed by pressing down on the connection one can feel it pop back to level with a very slight movement. it's just a few .1 of a mm that the tracks become misaligned vertically, but it can cause some cars to derail and not others. It is from bending vertically as one takes apart or assembles the track parts. Not sure if that is what is going on, but it is the derailment I most often see with Kato unitrack (I dont have any double track except one double crossover so this is totally different than the out of order construction of a corner that rolls into a slight bank then out of it back to level).
     
  10. Randy Clark

    Randy Clark TrainBoard Member

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    A lpot of my Kato rail joiners have seen better days. I have run untold miles on my layout. I have taken sections apart for temporary test tracks and I am sure some of my problems are self induced.

    My problems are usually with leading trucks and the 1st set of drivers on articulated. No worries with diesels. Just have work out th e kinks.
     

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