my very first layout that isn't totally adhock, on the floor or a table it can't stay on forever. Been at this like a week so forgive any glaring issues, and please let me know what they are ASAP. I am prototyping the layout in foam core panels that will then later be parts of the scenery. Since I have no idea what I am doing I wanted to make sure I had a track layout I really like before committing to constructing wood benchwork and scenery etc. due to space of my tiny apartment, I am laying a maximum efficiency of space track layout, then selecting real world locations where the track curvature approximates or does not conflict with the scene. It will be California coastal routes of the Surfliner and Coast starlight but the exact sections are still a bit undecided. It sort of slopes the wrong way for most of the coastal sections. Cuesta grade hillsides and tunnels are an option as the slope up into the closet could match the west side of the grade nicely. I will model the bridge at Gaviota since I grew up near there and visited often, it might be sort of 'backwards' in the layout though as far as keeping east and west uniform. A lot of work between here and there, the video is just an out and back loop in part of the wall area to be used.
2 turnarounds, one in the closed and one in the cabinet. space for 8 single or 4 double T trak modules inbetween. Starting with 4 double modules with a 2.2 grade to the track, scenery will be Cuesta Grade top section before the tunnel (west side coming from SLO). Plan on doing the Surfliner and Coast starlight routes in T trak double modules. Gaviota bridge in a rather large nearly to scale 4 foot quad module. Got the space planned out to do it, now I just have to do it...
my first mod, power for my spurs Yes, those are the worst solder joints ever, not sure what happened some sort of contaminant. This was the first attempt and I glued down the little track extensions before soldering and possibly vapors or something was making the solder bead badly and not flow. Then the plastic melted on one and it came off. There was fidgeting and finagling, but the first is done and lessons were learned. Will solder those first on the next one.
If solder beads instead of flowing, it usually means the material being soldered is not clean enough - surface oxidation, oils, etc. Try lightly sanding the joint and then using a liquid flux.
doh, I see that now. they seemed to show up when I made the post. can I not edit my own posts? this is awkward... going to try and add them again in this post before the edit feature times out I guess... and its not working I am getting broken links to my google photos. just 'googled it' and apparently google photos is badly broken and getting worse. Ugh. OK I can click on the broken image and open in new tab and see it, so its the board not allowing the images to show not the links, i guess. man this is lame just wanted to show a track mod not learn a new technical support skill.
Ken- Due to some past issues where posters went back and deliberately damaged topics, (several sad stories), there is a time limit set for editing. Just contact any of us, your Administrators, and we can make changes for you. Ken BoxcabE50 TrainBoard Administrator
Ken, when I right click and open images in a separate tab, it asks me to log into to Google. I think it's Google Images and how it behaves with forums.
OK yes that is normal on some boards where people are dishonest in the attempt to create a public persona that is a narrative of what they want others to think of them rather than who they actually are. Sad world. Just wish the photos would show up, no idea what is wrong with the links, If I right click and view in other tab they come up. Not sure and too frustrated to deal with it right now, computers are now a trigger for PTSD for me, any setback and I feel absolutely ill. edit: just saw your reply MK, yes I think they broke linking, probably to try for some form of monetization or forcing websites to accept a crappy agreement that data mines them. jesus I hate google, acted all nice and made us drop our guard, then they go for the wallet and the control of society to boot. sick people. Here is a link to a photo album that has a kato track mod that adds wires to a spur line end stop, https://photos.app.goo.gl/A7W77nvuBBdrge2w9 it might work and you may be able to see pictures, they might even be of Kato track mod. who knows since google is totally unreliable.
Ken, it works! I see the pictures of you doing a step mod to a track bumper? I didn't quite get the before and after but the important thing is I can see the pictures! LOL!
Just got DCC++ set up on my main layout, still need to wire the switches but I have my Amtrak Coast Starlight running on JMRI using WiThrottle, and am grinning from ear to ear! Just got 2 more engine decoders and a DS64 to handle switching so all my engines will have DCC. Will need to set up a reverse loop or 2 for this layout and make subdistricts for power management, lots to do but a lot done already. Started a helix to access a lower area for a yard and train storage. Happy happy, so very happy, it works and I have an Ipad throttle that I can walk around with, control switches and assign routes from. Awesome!
It looks great. Though I can't see the images, only the video. My only note of advice is that the places where track is close to the edge is where the train will derail. Why there? Because it's just what happens. I would put some kind of roll over guard there.
I would suggest ripping some "fences" out of Plexiglas for those locations and just screwing them to your benchwork. Unobtrusive and will keep your equipment safe. Good luck and above all have fun.
Ran into a problem, the digitrax DS64 is not playing nice. First time powering it up I heard all the switches activate and change states but trying to get them to respond to commands through JMRI I get no response. the Digitrax system and documentation, ugh. I read in the manual that I need a loco net and command station to program it, but I did not know that when I bought it and many online seemed to be using it with other products like ESU stations and DCC++. I can't get the thing to do anything and the instructions are not clear at all. Any advice or help? In DCC++, which itself is confusing as heck, 4 switches show up as DT1 DT2 DT3 and DT4 in the Turnout Table, but I can't get the switches on the layout to move after that one time they all seemed to at least make clicking sounds when I first powered up the DS64. Digitrax says in the manual they should be 01 02 03 and 04 addresses, dont seem to be and its confusing, unless JMRI is taking away a 0 and adding a DT since its a digitrax decoder, which is nice they tried to be helpful but actually sucks since its not to spec for the connected hardwares specifications. I tried cycling the power to the track and got no responses the second time the DS64 had power. Its green LED is blinking slowly. They decided to use different timing on an LED to indicate different things... I really dislike that kind of cheap and very confusing interface with a serious passion so Digitrax may not be the right route. I wish things in JMRI were in only one place, many settings appear in multiple places, it seems very confusing on purpose, trying to be impressive with basically offering the same thing many times in different menus. could be wrong, it's confusing as heck and I am just starting. Things were humming along till the DS64 install, thing is cryptic in documentation, the troubleshooting guide online is 2 lines of basic advice about resetting to default. Help!
OK got it working. maybe the factory default cmos file was corrupted or something, set the switch address to what they should be at factory default and they worked. No idea what the factory default addresses are I guess it could be a few different ways the reset file contains the wrong data or its setting them to null or something. 01-04 were not working till doing the process of setting the switch address manually. resetting the entire device to factory was changing the addresses to something other than the info in the manual or online (not 01, 02,03, and 04).
