B&M New Hampshire Branch

Jim Wiggin Jul 12, 2019

  1. Onizukachan

    Onizukachan TrainBoard Supporter

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    I think this is really great! Much better looking and anything I had ever thought of.
     
  2. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    You're too kind sir, thank you. Most of what has been applied here is from a combination of lessons learned and many hours driving back from many shows. Hopefully my ideas will be a help to some.
     
  3. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Junction Boxes
    With the CTC box virtually complete, sans the actual panel and a few coats of clear polyethylene, I now needed a way to bridge the servo controllers, (CTC panel), to the servos, (turnouts), on the modules. More lessons learned from my time building and showing the Galesburg City Job. As outlined earlier, I had smaller, centralized CTC panels that operated the turnouts for each module. Plugging the individual servo controllers was simply a matter of pushing 3 - 6 servo leads from the CTC panel into a large hole in the side of said module, screwing CTC panel box into the module, then plugging said leads into the correct servo turnout controller. For the City Job, I simply attached a 12 - 24 inch servo lead to each individual servo controller and labeled it 1A - 1C, (module 1, servo controller A and so on). While this certainly worked, it had many disadvantages.

    • In low light at set up, it was difficult to see the labels on the small servo connectors, which could lead to plugging in the wrong controller to the wrong turnout servo or reversing the polarity.
    • Damage could and did happen as the servo leads would sometimes wiggle loose in transport and snag on to the transport box.
    • Diagnosing a problem was difficult as the whole thing looked like a spaghetti bowl of wires.
    What I needed was a suitable interface that would connect the the control function (Tam Valley Servo Controller push button located on the CTC panel) to the the individual turnouts. On each module there are Tam Valley Servo Turnouts to fire the turnouts. On module 1, there are two and module 2 features four. Each servo is mounted directly underneath the turnout with a small ridged wire that goes through a small hole of the module and slides the throw-bar in the desired direction. Each servo is tied into a Tam Valley servo board which controls the operation. While the servos are in anyone location under the layout, I was able to mount the Tam Valley boards in a group, in line. I could just add a servo connector lead to each interface and then simply connect the CTC box much like I did with the City Job, but I wanted something neater, easier to see and efficient.

    If your still reading, thank you and I promise, the images are coming. I determined I needed a junction box for each module:

    BM071.JPG
    So module 1 received a 2-way servo junction box which is connected to it's two turnouts.

    BM072.JPG
    And module 2 received a 4-way junction box.

    This gives the modules a more permanent wiring with the only plugging and unplugging in centralized zones. Also the junction boxes feature larger, easier to read numbers, making set up faster and easier.

    So if your interested, the next few posts are how I built these little time savers. Should something like this seam helpful to you, feel free to use the next few posts as a "how to" and use them in your modular layout.
     
  4. Onizukachan

    Onizukachan TrainBoard Supporter

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    Very great idea.
    my (wasteful) idea was I just mounted a servopilot 2.0 in each module with analog/manual push buttons on the back. Red diverging and green mainline.
     
  5. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    BM058.JPG
    Step 1 was to gather up the materials needed for the construction of each Junction Box.
    1. Servo leads "Futaba style". These are available in a number of lengths from 3-inch to 24-inch. Use the length that works best for your situation. In my case, I used 24-inch.
    2. 1 sheet of Evergreen 030" (0.75mm) thick polystyrene, Item #9030.
    3. 1 package of Evergreen 3/16 Channel polystyrene, Item #266.
    4. 1 package of Evergreen 3/16 Tube polystyrene, Item #226.
    5. 1 package of servo eyelets, Item #FUTM3650. A package includes enough to build a few Junction Boxes. Each Junction Box will require two.
    6. 1 package of Dubro 2x12mm Socket Head Servo Mounting Screws (24), enough for 12 Junction Boxes. Item #DUBC0893. I used standard Philips head servo screws as that is what I had on hand but these Dubro hex head versions are much better.
    7. Liquid plastic cement, I used Tamiya brand.
    The servo leads (wire), eyelets and mounting screws are available at most on-line RC retailers. For tools, nothing exotic, a hobby knife with a new #11 blade, a small metal straight edge, a 1/8-inch drill bit and some sanding sticks.

    BM060.JPG
    The first step was to cut a strip of flat polystyrene 1-inch wide. If you have one of those Chopper tools, this would be a good time to utilize it, however one can simply cut the Channel stock into 1-inch lengths. I start by gluing the first channel on the very end as seen above. Next, measure 1/4-inch from the channel and glue another channel in the SAME orientation. You can just see the pencil line above for the next channel.

    BM061.JPG
    Next, rough up the FEMALE end of the servo lead with sandpaper or a sanding stick. You may also want to sand the channel a bit too. The goal here is to have the female end of the servo lead to slide into the channel for a good bond. Some brands of servo leads have slightly thicker ends so additional sanding may be necessary to achieve a good fit. Now glue the connector into the channel you glued in previously and follow up with another channel, this time facing said connector. Glue a forth channel butted up against the third channel holding connector one so your assembly looks like the one above.

    Two more points on servo leads!
    • You may notice the connector is "tabbed". This is especially true with the Futaba brand or Futaba style connectors. The tab represents the white signal wire and is tabbed to ensure proper function. I have installed all my connectors in the same orientation as you will see. Be consistent to save yourself headaches in the future.
    • There are also many makers of the servo leads. Try to select the standard WHITE, RED and BLACK three wire servo leads. Do not use the Hitech style, RED, YELLOW and BLACK or the JR style, RED, ORANGE and BROWN. Keep it simple. That said, each color wire has a specific purpose:
    1. BLACK: Negative lead.
    2. RED: Positive lead.
    3. WHITE: Signal lead.
    I left these images large so hopefully you can visualize my text.
     
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  6. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    BM062.JPG
    The process is rather straight forward at this point, here I have added another servo lead along with the channels. In this case, this is the 2-way junction box, however one can add as many as one wishes. Mirror the other side by terminating with a channel and measuring out 1/4-inch before cutting the 1-inch wide strip that has become your base. Finally, glue the last channel facing in as seen above. I also glued two scrap pieces of polystyrene on top of the connectors to provide more surface area to contact the top. Since they will be plugged and unplugged multiple times, I did not want the connectors to get loose or fall out. Now, you maybe wondering why there is a 1/4-inch gap on either side of the connectors.

    BM063.JPG
    Here is why. The 3/16-inch tube is cut the the same height as the C channel as seen in this image. These are glued in the exact center on either side and will be the mounting ears used to secure the box on the layout. Once the glue has set, use a 1/8-inch drill bit and the mounted tube as a guide to drill through the base of the junction box.

    BM064.JPG
    Now cut, glue and drill the top as seen above. Next, using a sanding stick, give the junction box a nice uniform finish.

    BM065.JPG
    Now I have both my junction boxes ready to go. As I said earlier, I have built this layout from two T-Trak 3-foot module kits. On the underside of each end of the module is a plywood shelf, about 1/2-inch from the bottom of the module. The shelf is on both ends and holds the leveling feet for each corner. I felt this would be the ideal spot to mount the junction boxes, however, I still wanted to access the boxes if needed. I found some scrap 1/4-inch Baltic Birch and cut a strip 1-inch wide then a proper length to mount the junction boxes and the shelf from each module. Here you can also see the eyelets and screws normally used with servos.

    Now to figure out which controller plugs into which slot into the junction box.
     
  7. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    BM066.JPG
    Fortunately I have software left over from my days of being an Associate Editor of Flying Models. It has allowed me to make a lot of the signage for not only the Galesburg City Job but this current project. As you can see, I've measured the label to the same physical size as the junction box and labeled each connector space with a number. I've also added text that identifies the component, which module it controls and even colored it in B&M blue.

    BM067.JPG
    And here it is, printed out. Eventually, ideally before I hit the show circuit with the layout, I will print these junction box labels on heavy card-stock and laminate them. Since card-stock, ink and laminate are not cheap, I'll wait until I can fill out an entire 8.5 X 11 sheet of card-stock and print it out for the entire layout. For now however, standard paper works. You can also see I have mounted the junction boxes to the plywood tabs.

    BM068.JPG
    Finished product, mounted and ready for the layout. The eyelets are placed into the 1/8-inch hole before sending the mounting screw in. The eyelet helps from over tightening the screw and warping or crushing the plastic box.
     
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  8. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    BM069.JPG
    One last thing I did before mounting the junction box for Module 1 was to neaten up the servo leads. As stated earlier, the servo leads come in a variety of lengths but in my case, 24-inch was the only length to reach. There was still some overhang as it was a bit long. Here is a solution that I learned when I did RC cars years ago. Simply wrap the servo lead around a screwdriver as seen above. It not only shortens the distance but makes the overall appearance much more finished. For those under 30 out there, some of us talked on a phone with a spiral cord like this attached from the handset to the base! And if your over 40, one had to D-I-A-L a phone number.

    BM070.JPG
    Junction Box for Module 1 is installed. The mini C clamp is holding the wood tab to the shelf spoken of earlier until the glue cures. The front of the layout is facing the numbers, while the back of the layout is facing the servo leads. The servo leads are now plugged into servo boards 1 and 2 and now all plugging and unplugging is done through the junction box, leaving the servo boards free from damage.

    BM072.JPG
    Likewise, the Junction Box for module 2. You can just make out one of the servos used to fire one of the turnouts. The servo is plugged into the servo board, not seen and the junction box has the correct servo lead plugged into that servo board. I marked the very middle of the module "shelf" so I could mount the junction box to the center of the module. This offered the best flexibility as I had plenty of slack from the servo controllers mounted on the CTC panel and enough length to plug in the junction box servo leads into their corresponding servo boards.

    So that's it for this portion of the build. I hope this was helpful or interesting. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I still have two Tam Valley Servo Turnout controllers to install which I plan to cover soon. That said, with the majority of the switch machines in and junction boxes installed, it's now time to get the CTC panel ready.
     
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  9. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    I thought I recognized your name from somewhere! Do you still fly? I'm an AMA AVP for District 2 and still fly. Flying - Summer, Trains - Winter. :D
     
  10. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Not so much, I discovered snowmobiles last winter while home in NH then motorcycles last spring. Between working for a dealership and my new outdoor activities, the motorcycle, Jeep and future Mustang GT, I no longer have much time or interest in flying other then puttering around with a RC helicopter or micro in the back yard. In fact 95% of my RC stuff is for sale to make room for that Mustang GT.

    I always look fondly at my time however at Carstens, both working in New Jersey and home in Illinois. Getting paid to write, take photos, build and fly model planes was a great gig and August of 2014 was a sad, sad month.
     
  11. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    Yeah, Flying Models was a great publication! The whole industry/hobby has changed with all the FAA proposed rules with drones, etc.
     
  12. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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  13. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    With the main box and wire junction boxes finished, it was time for me to turn my attention to the item that was the main thrust of this project, the CTC panel. I have been using the Tam Valley servo powered turnout kits since 2013 when I saw them at my not so local hobby shop. I used them in the first iteration of the Galesburg City Job with much success. Why fix something if it is not broken? And so it was, I went with the system again. Included in this system are small controllers that consist of a PCB board, two bi-color LEDs, a momentary button and a servo lead. These can be mounted easily on your layout fascia or in my case, a panel.

    BM069.JPG
    I first sourced a 1/8-inch panel that fit my box area. Next I used a piece of paper cut to the size of my panel and drew out my track diagram using a ruler and a 45 degree triangle. Next I used the paper patterns for the controllers that can be printed out from the Tam Valley website.Using double sided tape, I attached each pattern to the two lines as seen above. This would give me a nice pattern for when I drill the needed holes into the hardboard panel.

    BM070.JPG
    Here is the finished pattern showing the track layout of the modules as well as the position of the servo controllers. The pattern is centered and taped to the hardboard in preparation of the drilling. A 1/8-inch drill bit is used for the mounting of the controllers, using a small self taping screw and a plastic spacer while a larger 7/32 bit is used to open an area for the two bi-color LED's and momentary button. To help neaten the holes I was drilling into the panel, I used an old piece of plywood underneath the panel so the fibers would not pull out as I drilled through the panel.

    BM071.JPG
    With the needed holes drilled, cleaned up and smoothed over, I spray painted the entire panel with Krylon gray Primer, followed by Krylon Colormaster Paint+Primer gloss white. I'm very impressed with this paint. I shot three light coats followed by one wet coat and allowed the panel to dry. It was dry to the touch in about 30 minutes. I probably could have started the next step right away, but why rush and potentially ruin the work. I waited overnight and applied 6-mm Tamiya Tape to map out the track routes as seen here. I carefully trimmed the lines to make everything square.
     
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  14. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    BM072.JPG
    With the Tamiya Tape in place, I next followed up with the Krylon Colormaster Paint+Primer gloss black. I also gave this a few coverage passes finishing up with a wet coat. While the paint was still tacky, I carefully pulled away the Tamiya tape to revel the white track diagram. I then set the panel aside to fully cure.

    BM073.JPG
    Turning my attention back to the box, I needed to mount four mounting blocks for the control panel. I found some 1/4-inch hardwood stock from my model airplane days and cut four blocks with my mini table saw, then glued each one into the corner of the inside of the box as seem here. Speaking of model airplane days, I used a trick that is used for mounting model airplane cowls to fuselages. This trick ensures you are getting enough meat for the mounting screws to attach to. I cut four pieces of blue painters tape, attached them to the side and onto the mounting blocks, then placed a dot on said tape.

    BM074.JPG
    To help illustrate the next point, I'm using a piece of polystyrene. The tape is removed from the block but not the sides. the panel is put into place, the tape laid back down over the panel and now you have four guides in which to drill your pilot holes for mounting.
     
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  15. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    BM076.JPG
    It was now time to mount all six of the Tam Valley servo controllers. I wanted to number these connectors as well. Having six wires without labels would be rather silly and not conducive to an easy set up or trouble shooting should the need arise. The answer was as simple as trip to my decal bin. I used white locomotive unit numbers from one of my many HO scale decal sheets. Which decal sheet? Boston and Maine of course. It's odd for me to think, that this particular decal sheet is older then my two kids of 26 and 21! Liberal amounts of Walthers Decal solution was used to keep the decals to the connectors.

    BM077.JPG
    Then it was just a matter of mounting all those controllers and mounting the panel to the box using four small screws.

    BM080.JPG
    Now when I set up at the local train show, I just have to attach the CTC box to the shadowbox with two wingnuts and plug each servo controller into the appropriate location in the junction boxes.
     
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  16. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    BM078.JPG
    And it is finished! Hard to believe I started this small aspect of the project back in September of 2019, but life got busy and towards the end, I had to wait for nice days to apply the stain, polyethylene clear and paint. Now rather then remove the throttle holder and the CTC panel separately every time the layout goes to a show, it all comes off easily as a unit with two wingnuts. I also have the added feature of a tool older.

    BM075.JPG
    Here is a close up of the tool holder, another idea that came about from me taking the City Job to shows. The most misplaced item for me was the RIX un-coupler tool. On the City Job, I would have to leave them on the layout, where many times, they would roll onto the floor and sometimes never be seen again. I'm sure they is a least one in Milwaukee, Galesburg, Columbus and even Hopkinton New Hampshire. This takes care of that problem and leaves room for a spare. The other items that can be stored here include a small screwdriver, pen or pencil and even a track cleaner.

    BM079.JPG
    So there we have it. I hope you got something out of all my slightly OCD madness. The light in the shop was bright that day, so one can only barely see the LED's that are lit up showing witch turnouts are open in which direction, however, keen eyes may notice two controllers are dark. That means I still have two servo machines to install.

    Looks like the next installment of my build thread will be:

    Installing Servos for turnout control

    More to come...
     
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  17. bremner

    bremner Staff Member

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    That looks great, however, there is no beer bottle opener on the shelf!
     
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  18. Jim Wiggin

    Jim Wiggin Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Hmm, true. Maybe I need a Sam Adams distribution point too. On a historical note, the state of New Hampshire had a large, state run liquor store/distribution center in Concord right next to the north end of the Concord yard. I'll have to do some research, but I want to say it was served by rail.
     
  19. Philip H

    Philip H TrainBoard Member

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    Well @Jim Wiggin Rule #1 always applies (i.e. its my railroad and I'll run what I want). There's also Ed's Law (named after a really good MRR friend) - There's a Prototype For Everything!
     
  20. tracktoo

    tracktoo TrainBoard Member

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    Just read your thread to this point. :cool: Very nice! (y)
     
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