So I have my mainline running with about 20 switches installed. Every switch is a PECO 55 electrofrog. I have it wired so that the train runs continuously no matter which way switches are thrown. Some blocks, some area's where it's just the inner rails of the turnout insulated, etc. So should I not just be able to go buy a LENZ or Digitrax DCC system and plug in and go? I have done all the searches of this board and surfed the internet searching for the truth, I don't quite understand why I would have to modify my PECO switches.
Barry, I got what you need right here. http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm I hope that helps! That's why I used c80 insulfrogs exclusively! It wasn't because they were cheap, lemmetellya!
I also use Peco insulfrog switches exclusively. You may want to read what these DCC people have to say about the insulfrog switches. http://www.loystoys.com/peco-about-insulfrog.html Good luck with figuring out your layout.
Unfortunately, if you're using Code 55 track you do not have insulfrogs available to you. The Code 55 only comes in electrofrog. However, wiring the electrofrogs is really no big deal. Below is a diagram of how I was told to wire them. The blue lines indicate insulated rail joiners. The rest of the rail joiners can be metal (unless they are connecting to the frog of another turnout). The frog is green in the picture, but in reality it would either be red or black (depending on which way the switch is thrown. There are probably better (and more complicated) ways to wire the electrofrogs, but to the best of my knowledge the simple method shown below will get the job done. [ 03. December 2003, 14:19: Message edited by: Hoss ]
Thank you Hoss, that is probably the best wiring diagram I've seen yet. Because I have feeders going to the rail about every 4 feet on my layout I think the only question will be the frog part of the switch. I have too many switches to go and replace them all with insulfrog switches. I will be sure to follow up on the board when I do install the DCC, it may not be for about 6 months. [ 03. December 2003, 17:18: Message edited by: Barry ]
I haven't wired mine in yet because I don't have any track down, but from what I understand, as long as you put insulated rail joiners on each of the two rails making up the frog then you won't have a problem. This seems logical to me so that's what I'm going to go with when I do mine. I do know there may be better ways to do it using jumpers and what not, and if I were running small steam locos or something like that then I might consider it....but I'll be running modern 4 and 6 axle locos that shouldn't have any problems crossing over the frog if for some reason the point rails don't carry the electricity like they should. I did a lot of research on this before I bought my turnouts because I was worried about it. I'm convinced now that it's not a big deal. Keep us posted on your progress.
When I first started wiring my layout an old timer told me: "Don't Feed the Frogs!" It's an easy phrase to remember. Hoss has done it correctly. Always insulate the frogs and you will never have any electrical (well almost...) problems. This goes for most turn-outs. Yes I know there are some out there that are insulated, however for most of us Hoss's diagram is 100% correct. If you do it his way you can't go wrong.
Hello, Hoss, The diagram above has been deleted (got the red 'x'). Do you still have the diagram, can you repost it? I'm in process of deciding between Insulfrog and Electrofrog, the diagram would be helpful. thx!
Unfortunately I somehow managed to lose that diagram, but I was able to conjure up another one. I won't guarantee that the method below is the BEST method of wiring Electrofrogs for DCC, but I do guarantee that it works. I drew the frog as green because technically whether it's red or black depends on which way the switch is thrown on the electrofrog (which is precisely why you must use insulated rail joiners on the frog rails).
Barry, If your layout is wired in such a way that you have no shorts or places that have no power under regular DC then it will work just fine under DCC with no more modifications. My layout is wired the same way as yours. I don't use insulfrog turnouts because of the stalling issue with short wheelbase locomotives plus the all-metal frogs look much better. You just need to follow the proper wiring methods for using "selective" or "power-routing" switches such as Peco Electro-frogs. Some of the links posted already are just that otherwise there are a good number of books on the subject available. There is some mis-information (maybe mis-interpretation) out there about "DCC-friendly" switches. Some will have you believe that you have to replace your switches with more friendly types (this includes insulfrog and Atlas snap-track switches) If you use electrofrog, Shinohara, handlaid, or ME switches you still can, but you need to wire them properly so you don't have any shorts or dead spots by gapping and attaching feeders as necessary. Peter Schuytema
This is what I did and have no problems http://www.wiringfordcc.com/pecoelec.gif http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm
