Well I was thinking of repainting a UP GP40 and GP40-2 but MOPAC didnt have any of these units lol. Oh well I will have to look for some more Sd40's on Ebay for repainting at a later date. I could convert these to these Mitch what do you think maybe a project for next year [ 26. January 2004, 08:58: Message edited by: Colonel ]
Paul, if I recall correctly, you are babysitting my airbrush and compressor. Single colour (no masking), dark (easy coverage), a few available detail parts. Only thing would be the handrail like those above, unless MP had the normal SW handrail layout like the LL units, or you choose to overlook them. Could be your first custom paint job?
Very true Gary I might wait until you retirn and we can do a workshop lol I've never tried decaling either lol
Paul, This was my 3rd paint & decal job,it's so easy after the 1st one you do.Would be glad to come over & show you what I know,but seeing Mitch's work I know I have a long way to go to reach his standard,very nice work Mitch! [ 26. January 2004, 13:00: Message edited by: JASON ]
This thread is about SD 40's,here is my last two tries.Ex-SF to roman lettered SP,with gumball machine's still attached,still have to afix revolving lights,horns & plow's,MU hose's etc.Never finished....!!!lol. BTW thanks Paul for that tip about turning flash off,makes such a difference.
colonel they has some gp40's and gp40-2's as a result of the rock island going belly up, although not in jenk's blue but still nice looking units. here are a few pics of them. the gp40 the gp40-2 here is my version of the mp 904
Mitch, i guess that wouldnt be a hard conversion but i think I will just wait for some more jenks blue models Jason, Love those SD40's you will have to bring them over for a run.
sorry colonel i got busy with the firehouse stuff and didn't get pics posted, the last one is done just waiting to be put back together. pics will be up tomorrow afternoon and will be ready for ship back home friday.
Excellent work Mitch they are going to look fantastic with all four locos in front of a string of grain hoppers. I am going to Sydney n scale club in two weeks time and i'm hoping to be able to take some shots of the locos there. Looking forward to receiving them next week.
Mitch, Thats some very nice work,you should go full time!!!I've seen the other two you did for Paul ,even the windscreen wipers on rear of cab,do you use ACC to hold these?Also you have me stumped on the little marker/clasification lights,they are fibre optics but how do you get the shape like so? I have found some Isopropyl for stripping Kato body shells,but it's 99%.You said before you use 91%,would this make a big difference?Or do I just keep a closer eye on them. -Paul, Lucky you,look forward to that running session! Keep up the great work. Jason.
jason i use ca glue to hold the wipers in place, they take a size 80 hole above the window and then glues in place there, the class lights are done with fiber optic wire but the trick to the shape is holding it close to an open flame such as a cigarette lighter or candle to melt the end causing the small bubble shape that is perfect for classlights, this take practice doing because if you're too close you end up with a big blob of goo and also some burnt fingers, as for the alcohol 99%is fine, works a little better actually. shouldn't affect the shell much if any.
Mitch, Couple questions 1. Where do you get the fiber optic wire? I have not found any thing acceptably small enough for N-scale. 2. The small eyebolts on the top of the engines where did you get them metal etching or very small eye screws and what size are they? I do not plan on detailing engines till I get a couple of extra shells for experimentation and incase I mess something up weathering is not too much of a problem as I have weathered a number of my rolling stock units, with decent success. Here is a list of what I plan to detail; lighting, handrails, radio antennae, plows, Mu cables, weather shades, maybe grab rails, and number boards not too sure about the last 2 as it will depend how the other things go. I have a lifelike GP38-2 CR, which is not very prototypical, and a SW9/1200 NKP, which is rather good for handrails, but I think it may need a flashing light on top and some other small details. I also have a bachmann’s GE Dash 8-40c NS. My Steam engine I am not even going to touch, do not want to go there Any hints and tips would be acceptable.
My MOPACS are on there way back to Aus, hopefully they will arrive within the next 10 days just in time for our running session on Feb 20th. I'm looking forward to taking some shots on Sydney N scalelayout with 4 MOPAC units at the lead.
wolv cub i use gold medal models loco detailing set which includes the lift rings for the top of the loco, this also has the windshield wipers and sunshades i use on it, they are etched metal and are very nice. also for the fiber optic wire it is bl hobby supply, the middle of the 3 sizes you get in a pack. turns out perfect for classlights. and yes it takes practice to do detailing. make sure you buy a good set of drill bits and pin vise to get started. believe it or not but i don't use any magnifiers to detail, you may find you need to. also remember a little ca glue will go along way, you don't want glue showing on the finished model. for the other details like grab irons i use jnj 15" bent downs, firecracker ant. are also jnj. are hoses are made from .80 wire used for 1/25th model kit ignition wire from detail master. eagle2, what is it i have so many of that you want, i can't figure that out.
