Thanks Sumner! I'm pretty happy with it, so long as it looks good without a magnifying glass, I'll be pretty happy with it I don't save files locally with Fusion 360, I leave them in my Fusion account (cloud). However, if you didn't know, every save you do in Fusion 360 doesn't overwrite the file, you can always go back to a previous revision... In this case, I have 200 saves, and you can see that I sometimes 'name' the saves, such as the one where I had made the changes to have 0.4mm pins on the handrails. You can just click on of the revisions and open it back up. When I say the file is "corrupted" it's not really corrupted. It's just bad design decisions made it that I can't easily edit the timelime without spending half an hour re-enabling the timelime one item at a time.
Are you using the hobby 'free' version or the 'paid' version? I haven't seen the screen you posted above. I save all my files to the cloud (Fusion 360) and the individual project I'm working on but right after doing the 'save' I hit the 'export' button and export them to a folder on my computer. I can keep the folders organized better than on their site. I have a number of folders for the Coal mine's different buildings/areas. When I go back to working I open the file from the folder it is on in my computer. Guess I'm a little paranoid and like having and using my copies Sumner
I'm on the hobby (personal) license.. Click Show Data panel, the grid icon in the upper left... Followed by clicking on the version for your file... That's where you'll find each individual version, hover over any of them to open an old version! I'm not too paranoid about the cloud version, for myself it's certainly safer to store it there than locally!
I am soooo going to apply grab irons separately next time! Only a few more decals to go! stripes on the sill and the Canadian National decal on each side! I went with 3619 just for ease of decals. The exporail museum RS-18 is number 3684, but the decal sheet only had two sequences of four numbers starting with 36. Lucky I chose 3619, because the larger yellow 3639 was a different, more fancy font. Anyway, we'll just say this particular unit was left out to the elements for a while and repainted a few times without first stripping the old paint off. Yup, that's exactly what I'm modeling! I'm sticking to that story At least my mix of yellow paint turned out really close to the decals!
That's it, I'm done! This is as far as I'm going to go with this model, after several months, I want to get back to working on my actual layout So out came the real camera, and took a few pictures... This is the first locomotive shell I entirely 3d printed, and I'm very very happy with how it turned out! So there was a lot of gnashing of teeth, curses and frustration at times, but those should all make it easier for the next shell I attempt. Were a few 'oh sh..oot' moments as well! The latest was with the windows. I just wasn't happy with putting in windows, the area between the hood and the cab walls is very narrow and even using curved super thin tweezers, I just couldn't adequately get a small rectangle of clear plastic in for the window. Not to mention how difficult it would be for the front and rear windows! So I grabbed one of my bad test prints that I had tested the green and yellow paint on (when trying to match the decals). Using a toothpick, I started adding glue windows using Aileen's clear tacky glue gel. I was on the second window when I started wondering why my model had handrails. Crap! my "practice" shot was actually my real shell! Though you know, adding glue windows turned out to be super simple and easy to do. They're fragile, but also super easy to remove without a trace to re-apply if needed. As a bonus, I used the same technique to add a lens to the headlights! Just a dab of glue and let dry - they light up real nice on the layout. Anyway, I've since ran the locomotive on my layout and everything is working just fine and runs really smooth, if a bit noisy in turns. I think one of the gears is rubbing somewhere inside the body. Since I have less than 20 minutes of run time on this thing, I figure it'll wear off eventually. Hope you enjoyed the long journey!
Thoroughly enjoyed. It's an amazing process to follow from idea, proto pic, 2D drawing, 3D drawing, print, test and redesign a bunch of times, final print, paint, to rails! You really nailed it, congrats! -Mike
That has turned out Great Stephane! If I saw a pic of it somewhere else and had not seen this thread, there is no way I would have guessed it was 3D printed. That is how good it looks to me. Using the glue to make windows and headlights was also a nice touch. Excellent work sir!
Very nice. Great looking Loco. Great detail. If I didn't know I would also not believe this was a 3D print. Now you are pushing me to get a resin printer and learn a cad program. I didn't see what printer you were using. Later Richard
Thank you everyone, really glad you enjoyed it! Richard, I use an Anycubic Mono X, and the resin is Phrozen water washable rapid black. As for modeling program, I use Fusion 360, but I started with Tinkercad. I think the guy from DIY and Digital Railroad on YouTube uses tinker to make his buildings. Watch some of his videos then try it too, see if you like it!
Thanks. I was thinking about the Anycubic Photon Mono 4k. I will check out the DIY and Digital videos. Later Richard
@Stephane Savard, just finished reading the whole thread, an amazing piece of work... About six months ago, I started noodling around with brass scratchbuilding, HOn3. Long-story-short, I've come off that (thankfully, before I spent too much money on tools) and switched to a 3D print workflow. Got a Elegoo Mars 3 in the FedEx pipe right now, and I've done a fair bit of modeling of D&RG 168, a Baldwin 4-6-0. Your thread and this account of printing a On3 Shay: https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/3d-printed-shay-done-12219855 are giving me really good perspective on how to approach this sort of modeling; thanks for posting the account here! I did N scale for a long time, put it aside when I moved to Colorado and 1) found the narrow-gauge, and 2) lost my 20/20 eyesight. What I'm finding interesting about doing CAD modeling of piece/parts is that you can zoom in as far as you need to work detail, no handicap with less-than-optimal vision. Looking at your modeling gives a really good sense of that, and how well resin printing resolves that "arbitrary" detail to resin-reality. Glad I didn't spend a lot of time figuring out a FDM printer... Also interesting here is the "all-one-print" approach that seems to better suit N-scale diesel bodies. The fellow at the Shay thread is the antithesis, a whole bunch of piece-parts, mainly for being bigger as well as building a "working" mechanism. I think my model will fall somewhere between, but deciding where to decompose is an interesting consideration in of itself, not just for printing dynamics. Gee, I need to start another thread.... Thanks for the inspiration!
Thank you Glenn! I'm happy you liked the thread, but umm, yeah, I'm no where near the work that that guy did with the Shay, wow. Like comparing a five-year old's drawing of a train with an artist's work, lol Anyway, I think next time I will go more modular approach, I have a feeling trying to print everything at once isn't as easy in some ways; painting being one of the issues. I know that the modular approach will bring other issues, but it's something I'll explore more of in the future.
Ah, but all his thread did for me was show how well detail can be reproduced in O scale, nothing telling regarding smaller scales. Your work did just that for me, showed me what dimensions are going to be problematic, and copasetic. You also indirectly convinced me that translucent resins are probably preferrable, as it's easier to cure through and through, and to just shoot a good primer to "solidify". Indeed, I'm building a combination printer box/paint booth to take advantage of a single exhaust setup, and my son is returning my airbrush this afternoon, after almost a decade of holding on to it...
