The wheel linkage on the right side of my engine separated and I would like to consider repairing it. However, I do not see a listing for the N Mikado listed on the Bachmann web page. Suggestions? DMK
Wow That looks like the axle itself is broke? I have a dozen Bachmann Connies, but they are all Spectrum. What I often do is buy non-runners of various locos I have for parting out. Bet you could get a non-runner example of those earlier Connies somewhere like ebay. Good luck!
That particular Bman Mike is the same mech as the Consolidation. Now to find one, most likely ebay. The spectrum Connie is a different critter.
It is not easy to tell from the photographs, but it appears that one of the drivers in the Number Three pair popped out of the socket in the gear piece. The drivers on these things are three pieces: two wheels with partial axles that press fit into a gear with a socket in the center. The axles on either drive wheel never touch. This is one reason why those old things were so easy to put into gauge. There are two usual culprits in the causing of the driver to pop out of its socket: A. Fatigue of the plastic socket walls in the plastic gear. This is the less likely culprit, but it does happen. B. The gear piece has cracked, thus the socket no longer has a good grip on the partial axle of the driver. A little torque from the rod and it pulls out the driver. This is the most likely culprit. The gears in those old B-mann locomotives, especially the white ones, are notorious for cracking. The crack usually starts at the socket and can move up the gear, as well. Original Poster has a few options: 1. See if Bachpersonn has any more gears. Bachmann gets its parts inventory from returned items. These have been out of production for some time, but they might have the part. 2. Try to find a basket case on FeePay, NScaleYardSale and cannibalise it for the parts. Original Poster will do well to be aware that the odds of this recurring are pretty good. 3. Get some ACC or epoxy and try to glue it. The problem of cracking gears on various power has been a subject of discussion on this forum as well as several others. Gluing was one proposed solution. Several posters have demonstrated what they have done to address this problem in this manner. Original Poster further will do well to keep in mind that should he choose this solution, he should not glue the driver into the socket. Drivers on steam locomotives must be quartered, particullarly the main driver, which has popped out on Original Poster's locomotive. It would be extremely difficult to glue the axle into the socket then quarter it. Quartering model steam locomotives often does involve a little trial and error, although I would suspect that the mechanism in this one has about as much slop in it as a Rivarossi. The real matter for consideration is what does not break on this thing. The motor has a habit of frying. Parts tend to fall off it. Unless you are modelling Reading Company steam (this one is based on a Reading I-9 or I-10, I forget which), there really is no reason to run one of these things. You are much better off with a B-mann SPECTRUM 2-8-0. I would put the thing into my parts box and buy a SPECTRUM 2-8-0. One funny thing about this is that the gear ratio is actually pretty good. I had one that fried a motor. I took out the motor, took off the pilots, added some weight and was amazed at how well it freewheeled. I coupled it to a powered box car and used it for a switcher.
Well another victim of Bachitis also known as the split gear syndrome. Good luck on finding parts at Bmann because these are old locos long since replaced by an updated connie. And buyer beware because buying an old style connie off of Ebay is just getting the same cracked gears. Best use for it is to shove it on the RIP track. Used to be an outfit that made replacement gears for various locos but they have been long since out of business, I have had no success with all the so called fixes for the spilt gears although the laser printing of gears offered on Shapeways may offer an answer.
I love these old engines, but the other posters are correct, they are a battle to keep running. That particular engine has a Vanderbilt tender. You could probably get enough on fleabay to pay for half of a used Kato 2-8-2 or Bachmann Spectrum. I have all of the above engines and if you want a good running Mikado, get a Kato unless you have to have a Vandy Tender. If that is the case, look at it as the same kind of dedication to that as restoring an old car or gun, finding parts will be an ongoing challenge.
It looks like split gears / axle muffs - Replacements are available on Shapeways - see link below: https://www.shapeways.com/product/R...ear-1st-gen?optionId=126878135&li=marketplace
